Question about 1993 Isuzu Pickup

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After it warms up it won't Idle.

Also the Battery light, the fuel light and the brake light all com on and flash. Any time i push the clutch in it dies.

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Sounds like a mass air flow sensor problem. I had a ford that did exactly the same thing. Carb cleaner galore might fix it for you

Posted on Oct 31, 2008

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I have replace my car wires plugs distributor cap everything new transmission computer do not have power and taking off 1990 Acura Integra RS automatic


Reset your computer, turn ignition switch off or leave key out than pull a hazard fuse on the driver's side main fuse box FOR 10 SECONDS. After reset if the code continues you have further proplems... Most consist of sensor failure but if its 3 blinks on your LED display located on your ECU it is your map sensor (manifold absolute pressure) check connections/ plugs/ etc... reset again than if it still blinks find a good used one at a junk yard if you want to save money its on the firewall near your brake master cylinder it's labeled... If you misunderstood the code blinks go over all connections to everything connecting to your intake manifold and fuel system sensors. Your ECU controls fuel/air flow and idle/etc but it's main deal is controlling fuel/air for fuel efficiency and using your idle control valves/ temp sensors to control your warm up and after warm up idles...
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Oct 06, 2016 | Acura Cars & Trucks

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I have an 01 honda accord and the battery light the doorlight and brake light are all flashing what can cause that


I have a 1998 Honda Accord 4cyl vtec that is doing the same thing but only when its cold. Once the car warms up the lights stop flashing. When this does happen the wipes are slow, light the alternator isn't charging properly. This isn't a service light issue. I know how to reset this light. Lights on the dash that flash are the battery light, the door open indicator lights on the dash and the brake light - all at the same time. I had the battery replaced since mine was two years old but this didn't fix it.

Aug 02, 2012 | 2001 Honda Accord

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What do i need to be changed it stalls when pushing on the brakes and plus the idle.


i need a little more info, 2 things could be the problem, first you could have a bad brake booster causing an extreme vacume leak which could stall the engine, or at least make it run very rough and stumble when brakes are applied, the other thing could be a low batt, when appling the brakes the brake lights will come on causing a voltage drop to the engine causing it to stall, whoever the condition would drain the batt to the point that it probably wont have enough power to restart the engine, if this is the case you would also need to check the alternator for charge rate easy enough to check hook a voltmeter to the battery with the engine running it should read at least 13.5 volts up to but not exceeding 14.9 volts

Jul 23, 2012 | 1995 Ford Probe

1 Answer

Fast idle


Pull the vacuum hose off of the fuel pressure regulator and if you see any fuel then replace the regulator.If there's no fuel present then take the idle air control valve off and clean the carbon out of it and the throttle body with a non-chlronated brake cleaner and reset the computer by disconnecting the ground cable on the battery for 30 seconds.

Jan 25, 2012 | 1996 Jeep Cherokee

1 Answer

I have a 96 pontiac grand am that doesnt start all the time


Starting Problem # 1: Engine Won't Crank At All

Scenario: You turn the key, but nothing happens: And by nothing, we mean there is no dash light, no sound, nada. The first thing you should do in this case is to pop the hood and check the battery. Either the battery is completely dead or there's a wiring problem in the starting system. Try jump-starting the battery. If that doesn't work, you'll probably have to call for assistance.

Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a rapid clicking sound, and the dash lights dim. This is your classic low-battery symptom. Jump-starting the battery should get the engine to start.However, if you keep experiencing this problem, you could have a bad battery or alternator, or it could be some­thing as simple as a loose alternator belt. Take your car to a mechanic just as soon as you can.

Scenario: When you turn the key, the lights on the dash come on, but you don't hear anything. Make sure you have the shift selector all the way in park. Move it out of park and then back, or try starting it with the shifter in neutral. If your car has a manual transmission, make sure you have the clutch pressed all the way to the floor. If that doesn't help, you can try jump-starting the battery, but it probably won't work. There's a good chance your car has a bad starter or a problem in the starting circuit. That could mean a prob­lem in the ignition switch, neutral safety switch or starter sole­noid.

Scenario: The dash lights come on when you turn the key, and then go right out, and the engine doesn't crank when you turn the key to start, But, the lights slowly come back on when you release the key. This is another classic: the bad battery connection. When you turn the key to start, the starter pulls so much current that it breaks the connection. Then, when you release the key, the connection slowly comes back. The connection provides enough power to turn the dash lights on, but not enough to crank the starter. Cleaning and tightening the battery terminals may fix this prob­lem.

Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a single, hard clunk. Turn the headlights on and try again. Do the lights dim slightly when you turn the key? If so, you probably have a bad starter or a seized engine. If the headlights don't dim at all, or just barely dim, there may be a connection problem between the starter solenoid and the starter itself.

Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a loud, scraping or grinding sound like metal on metal. The starter drive is bad, or the ring gear on the flywheel damaged, or both. You may get the starter to engage if you try turning the key a couple of times, but let go of the key right away if you hear the noise again. If the car does start, you should drive it right over to local repair shop and have the problem fixed.

Starting Problem #2: Engine Cranks but It Won't Start

Scenario: The engine seems to crank normally, but the engine doesn't even sound as if it's trying to start. Is there gas in the tank? Gas gauges are notoriously inaccurate. If you have to move your head to one side to get the needle to move off empty, try adding some gas to the tank.

Scenario: When you first turn the key on, you don't hear the fuel pump run. In cars with electronic fuel injection, you should hear a light hum a few seconds from around the fuel tank. That's the electric fuel pump running. If you don't hear the fuel pump run for a couple seconds when you first turn the key on, try cranking the engine until the oil light goes out. That may start the pump running and allow the engine to start.

Scenario: The engine cranks normally, and it sounds like it wants to start, but it won't. You may have flooded the engine. Hold the gas floor and try again. (Let the gas pedal up when it finally starts). If it's raining out, the ignition system may be wet.

Scenario: The engine cranks unevenly in a repetitive-sounding pattern. You may have a bad timing chain or timing belt. Call a tow truck and have it towed to the repair shop.


Starting Problem # 3: Engine Starts but It Shuts Off

Scenario: The engine starts right up, but shuts off as soon as you release the key. This is the classic symptom of a bad ignition switch. A new switch should fix it.

Scenario: The engine starts and runs, but when you put the transmission in gear, the car lurches and the engine shuts off. The converter clutch in the transmission torque converter probably is engaging when it shouldn't. On some cars, you can bypass this by disconnecting the torque converter clutch solenoid; but unless you know which wire to pull, forget about it. Call for assistance.

Scenario: The engine starts and runs, but seems to idle slowly and stalls when you come to a stop. This probably is a fast idle problem. When the engine is cold, it's supposed to idle a little faster than normal to keep the engine running. You may be able to drive using two feet until the engine warms up: one on the gas to hold the idle up a little and the other for the brake. However, don't keep driving it this way. Take your car to your repair shop just as soon as you

Jul 21, 2011 | 1996 Pontiac Grand Am

2 Answers

Everything runs fine except when i idle. when i take my foot off the gas and press the brake to stop at a red ight or park the engine stalls. i think its a battery thing i had corrosion on the postive...


Either your power brake assist booster has a bad check valve in it causing a huge vacuum leak when you step on the brake (Vacuum leaks lean out the fuel/air mixture causing stalling) or you have an 'engine protect' sensor that kills the ignition/fuel pump when the oil level's too low and it's either got crud in it from running the oil too low or has otherwise malfunctioned.

Jun 05, 2011 | 1993 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

1 Answer

Wont idle down, battery light comes on.


Won't idle down. Indicative of a vacuum leak. Alternator should be checked. more than likely two seperate problems.

May 04, 2009 | 2000 Ford Focus

1 Answer

`91 Nissan D21 4 cyl MT Pickup won't idle when cold


sounds like the clutch isnt engaging properly in the situations you described. may need to check fluid levels if there ok. then may need to get serviced or checked at least

Mar 20, 2009 | 1991 Nissan Pickup

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