Question about 2001 Chevrolet S-10

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2000 s-10 the blower works but no heat comes out the vent. where do i start?

I have a 2000 s-10 and the heater wont work. the blower and the a/c work fine where do i start?

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  • rsr565 Nov 05, 2008

    hi jeff 3211, I have a similar problem except I have "warm" air when rmp's are
    at 1500 or above, then quickly goes cool at idle. I replaced the thermostat(190) and the
    radiator is full w/ the cap removed when cold. temp gage did seem to go closer to 210 mark after replacing the thermostat but the problem remains.
    I am assuming the heater core inlet is the small hose off the water pump and the return is the hose that goes back into the top of the intake manifold.
    what I noticed at the return side of the heater core is a coupling that screws
    into the I-manifold( no wiring). Is this another type of flow valve that controls flow thru the heater core and might be causing the problem?

    thanks for your response


  • Anonymous Mar 26, 2009

    exact same problem and they said to replace coolant temp sensor!

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First thing to check is the coolant level. The heater is the lowest priority of the cooling system so if there isn't enough coolant, none will flow through the heater core. If the radiator is full, the next thing to check is coolant flow through the heater core. The easiest way is simply by "feel" and here's how: Open the hood and identify the heater hoses by locating the two smaller coolant hoses that attach to ports at the fire wall. Once you identify them, start the engine and allow it to warm up to normal operating temperature. (195 to 200 degrees F or just under 100 degrees C) Now turn off the engine and feel the two hoses one at a time as close to the fire wall as possible. If one is warm or hot and the other is cool or cold then there is an obstruction in the heater core. If there is an obstruction in the heater core, you can usually back-flush it and clear it out. To back flush it you have to identify coolant flow direction, if you have identified a cold hose with the previous test, then that's the coolant outlet of the heater core, to back-flush, you would force water into the outlet, and watch for the obstruction to be blown-out of the inlet. Usually garden hose pressure is sufficient, but don't apply more force than the pressure maximum specified on the radiator cap! (Usually 15-17 PSI) You can burst a heater core with too much pressure, then you'll enjoy all the fun of removing the entire dash panel from your vehicle so that you can access the heater core case. If it is totally clogged up there may be no hope of clearing the obstruction, and replacement will become necessary.(which makes dash panel removal necessary too!) If the heater core is not obstructed and both hoses are the same temperature, the climate control system is not directing airflow through the heater core. The air diverter door may be cable or servo-electrically operated. Again access to the heater case may become necessary to service the air diverter doors. ( I wouldn't recommed anyone other than a skilled professional for dash panel removal and replacement because there are a lot of nuts, bolts, screws wiring connectors, vaccum hoses and possibly cables to deal with, not to mention engine coolant and air conditioner refrigerant in cars with A/C! ) Good Luck!

Posted on Nov 02, 2008

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