Question about 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier

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Lossof power and ets off inicator on

I was driving normally at 30 mph and was going to make a lane change and stabbed the accelerator, the car just felt like it went to half power. continuing down the road i learned that with the accelerator pedal pushed less it got its power back, when over accelerated it had a point in the rpm to throttle position where it would change from having normal power to a rough running loss of power. now it has changed to were the throttle position macks no difference in the performance quality it only runs with very little power but not missing cylinders.

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  • dirty12 Oct 31, 2008

    Thank you very much, I had the code read and it showed tps and crank position sensor so I replaced them but it still isnt right so I put a fuel filter on it and no change. i have been driving the car and it is really eating up fuel,so that being the direction you sent me to the regulator.

  • Anonymous Mar 18, 2014

    Going down the road car won't accelerate

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Check fuel pressure 1 fuel pump 2 fuel pressure regulator and 3 fuel filter.

Posted on Oct 31, 2008

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How to do the drive cycle on a 1996 nissan pathfinder


How to Perform a Basic Drive Cycle


Step One: How to Prepare Your Vehicle

  • Have the fuel tank between 30 and 70 percent full. Some systems, especially the EVAP system, need to have a specific level of fuel in order for the tests to be trusted. If the fuel tank is near empty or completely full, many of the basic tests will not run at all.
  • The vehicle must also have a good alternator and a strong battery. If you have to occasionally jump-start your vehicle, all of the memory from the powertrain control module (PCM) is erased, which includes the data that accurately tracks the results from various stages of the Drive Cycle. Also, if the battery is weak or undercharged, some of the most important tests will never run.
  • The vehicle must sit overnight, or for at least eight hours, in an environment that is less than 90° F. The engine temperature needs to match the air temperature in order to establish an accurate baseline for the testing. If the outside temperature is over 90° F, the fuel is too volatile and the EVAP system won't even try to run its tests, though some of the other emissions systems may run their tests.
  • The keys must be out of the ignition and all of the doors must be closed while the vehicle sits over night because many of the onboard computers "boot up" when the keys are in the ignition. Also, many of the onboard computers still run until all of the doors are closed after the vehicle is shut off and the keys are removed.
Step Two: The Cold Start
  • Start the vehicle and let it idle for two to three minutes in Park or Neutral. While it is idling, turn on the head lights, heater/defroster, and rear defroster for a three to five minute warm-up phase. Let the idle speed settle down to near the normal speed.
  • Next, put the vehicle in gear and drive through city streets at about 25 mph. Go up to about 35 to 40 mph a few times before slowing down to stop. Don't roll through the stop; be sure the car is really stopped, just like you learned in driving school. Accelerate from each stop in a normal fashion-not overly conservative, but not like you are competing in a drag race either.
Step Three: A Short Freeway Trip
  • After the vehicle has been cold started and driven for a few miles on city streets, the next step is to take it on a short freeway trip.
  • Enter the freeway on-ramp and allow enough room with respect to other vehicles so that you can do a 1/2 to 3/4 throttle acceleration up to freeway speed.
  • When you have accelerated up to around 60 mph and have safely merged into the flow of traffic, stay in the slow lane and maintain a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for a minimum of five miles. Please use the cruise control to help you maintain speed.
  • Find a nice, long off ramp to exit from the freeway. As you exit, take your foot off of the accelerator and let the vehicle coast down until it stops under its own power as you complete your exit from the freeway. Do not use the foot brake and do not shift gears until the very end of this "coast down" phase.
Step Four: More City Driving
  • After you have completed the freeway trip, drive through the city streets for a repeat of the second part of Step Two.
  • Go up to about 35 to 40 mph a few times and then maintain a city speed of 25 mph before slowing down to stop. Again, don't roll through the stop and make sure to accelerate normally.
  • Pull in to a parking place and let the engine idle for one to two minutes and then shut it off.
Step Five: Wave your Readiness Monitors Checked and Verified
  • Drive your vehicle to your regular shop and have them re-check your readiness monitors, present codes, and pending codes. They should do this as a courtesy and for free.
  • If all of your monitors are "ready" and there are no present or pending codes, then your vehicle has been properly repaired and is ready for an emissions inspection and for normal driving.
  • If your monitors are not ready, please click here for more information.

May 26, 2016 | Nissan Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

When accelerate above 30mph its cuts out or loses power but runs smooth at idle


Acceleration cut off when reach 30mph - Range Rovers

www.rangerovers.net/...rover.../27680-acceleration-cut-off-when-reach-...

Mar 30, 2010 - 16 posts - ‎6 authors
All of a sudden, RRSport HSE 2006 can not speed above 30mph. ... It's only an hour's drive away if your car could go straight upwards. .... My guess is that some control module got fried or out of whack when the power spike ...

WILL NOT GO OVER 30MPH WITH PEDLE TO METAL ...

repairpal.com > Questions > Dodge > Charger > 2006 Dodge Charger
... and a 18 wheeler comes up behind me going 85mph. or more and my car drops down to 35 to 40. ... It would not let me go pass 30mph and it would bog out. .... His truck was barely over 36k. when this happened. ... sudden I was cruising at 30 more or less and could not accelerate or shift gears I could just switch to Drive.

My Chevy Silverado won't go over 25 miles an ... - CarGurus

www.cargurus.com > Questions > Chevrolet > Silverado 1500

CarGurusSep 19, 2012 - His response wasn't even there until the page refreshed when I hit ...The engine would shut off due to a clogged fuel filter not hit 25 MPH and just stopaccelerating. ... when the gas pedal was to the floor but it wouldn't go over 30 MPH?.... When I punch it at 110 or above, it will cut out and drop to 103kph, ...

Starts,Idols perfect Bogs down, no power upon acceleration ...


Jan 31, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2004 ford explorer loud hum and vibration at 70 mph


Could be bad unbalanced tires. If the noise changes when you turn/change lanes, then it is likely a wheel bearing.

Jan 27, 2014 | Ford Explorer Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Squeaking when accelerating from 0-30 mph. sounds like its coming from one of the back tires. when I let go of the accelerator going 0-30 mph it stops almost instantly.


Sounds more like a power steering belt to me, worse when it is cold? hard to determine a sqeaking sound in writing, check you belts condition and tensions. good luck.

Oct 21, 2013 | 1997 GMC Sierra

1 Answer

I have a 2004 Saturn Ion. The car will not accelerate beyond 35 mph with the gas pedal totally to the floor. The car is making a wheezing like sound as she goes. The check engine light came on and the...


Have the cat converter check for failure and blocking the exhaust pipe. No codes will show . Test by hitting the cat converter with the heel of your hand and if it rattles get a new one.

Aug 21, 2013 | 2004 Saturn ION

1 Answer

I have a 1999 volvo v70 awd I have no power when i drive it. The car doesnt seem go past 2000 rpms. My ets light comes on and the car wont go over 30 mph.


This was a common problem on 99's and up. It is usually a permanent fault of the throttle body. The fix can only be done at a dealer as they have to download software to the unit itself. Good luck.

Sep 03, 2011 | 1999 Volvo S70

1 Answer

When driving at about 30 mph occasionally the drive seems to slip and then catch. car is 2005 1.6 fsi with 80k on clock


the gearbox is a computer controlled auto with 4th lock up (O/D) and should, if driven very carefully,change from fluid drive to mechanical drive at about 30 mph.to check transmision carry out the following.
from standstill,put car in drive,no gas,and let the car reach max speed(about 30 ish)then.
from standstill using 1/3 gas pedal (do not move gas foot)let the car accelerate to max speed.
lastly, put car in drive and floor gas pedal(make sure you are alone)then
drive as economically as you can, the gearshift patern will then adjust to your driving style(takes about 50 miles)You will feel the car go from fluid to mechanical drive as a kind of slight drop in revs then ...engage.
assuming you have checked fluid level first of course....

May 16, 2010 | 2005 Volkswagen Golf

1 Answer

30 mph it starts to falter ? the rpm?s go high but not the speed


well your tranny is slipping check your tranny fluid make sure its not low on fluid

Dec 03, 2009 | 2005 Dodge Ram 1500

1 Answer

98 Chevy Lumina has front end noise (rumble) from 10 mph and above. It gets increasingly louder as you accelerate. It does not change by coasting or applying the brakes. Also does it in reverse but not...


I may be a wheel bearing. Try shifting the weight of the car on the front tires by turning the wheelslightly while driving about 30 MPH. Don't turn enough to change lanes, just enough to put the load on the outside bearing. It may quiet down in one direction. The failed bearing is generally the side that you turned to in order to make the noise go away. Say the noise goes away when you steer to the right, the failed bearing is usually the right one.

You can also check for play by jacking up the car and shaking the tire. There should be no play.

Sep 06, 2008 | Chevrolet Lumina Cars & Trucks

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