Question about 1999 Saturn SL
I turn the key and the engine won't turn over, no clicking from the starter and all service lights on the dash are on as normal when starting. It does absolutely nothing. But after the car sits for a while it will start. Seems to happen no matter if it is hot or cold. Once it sat 2 days I could not get it to start so i called the wrecker and when he got in, it started right up. I banged on the starter to see if it was the bushes. I moved the shifter from park to nuteral back to park making sure it was in park still the same a discribed above. It happens at random times as it has run fine for 2 months and last night it would not start waited half hour and it started right up. started up this morning too. It has a new battery. the mechanic says he can't deterime the problem unless he sees it while it is happening and is shooting from the hip by saying replace the starter first then try the shift sensor (i forgot the name of this sensor) HELP!!!
Another idea, it may be too late, but maybe for the next problem of this nature. My daughter has a 1999 Saturn SC1. Wouldn't turn over, all lights good, and no headlight dim as I tried to start it. The battery is good (Checked with a meter) the starter works if I jumper the solenoid (Purple wire) to the positive battery.I checked the safety neutral switch (Under the brake resevoir) and it is closed in park. (This is normal) What I discovered is there is a starter relay located just under the left side of the dash cover (Two center screws, and it pulls back and up) This needs a ground. That wire is yellow with a black stripe. If your security system arms for some reason, this ground will go away. Dissconnect your battery for a while, then reconnect, put key in ignition, turn to run, then to start, then back to run, then off. This may reset it. Also check your procedure in the owners manual.
By the way... the starter relay has three other connections, all are yellow wires. One goes out under the hood to eventually become the purple wire that goes to the starter. The other becomes "hot" when turning the key to start. The last also becomes "hot" when turning the ignition key to start, and is fed from the ignition switch itself (Yellow wire)
Posted on Jun 25, 2009
I would suspect the starter solenoid or the starter. I may be telling you something you already know, so if I am, bear with me. When you turn the ignition key to start the car, you apply 12 volt to the starter solenoid (which is physically located on the starter). The solenoid is actually a relay that applies 12 volts( at very high current) to the starter. Since you are not hearing any clicking when you turn the key, I suspect the solenoid. BTW, when you get a starter it usually comes with a solenoid already atteched.
Hope this helps Good luck Loringh
Posted on Nov 02, 2008
I had a 96 saturn that would start when it felt like in it was a 5 speed it turned out to be a bad switch under the clutch pedal
Posted on Aug 26, 2010
On my 1999 Saturn sometimes it would not start i would let it sit awhile and then it would start. Another problem that would happen at the same time was the remote start would stop working. I could hear the relays clicking under the center console below the radio. I went to the salvage yard and bought two replacement relays. It worked a few times but the same problem started over. I removed the relay block where the relays plug in and found that it had gotten hot and melted. I was able to repair mine but others may have to be replaced. I have never had the problem return its been over a year.
Posted on Aug 02, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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Dec 14, 2012 | Cars & Trucks
Nov 18, 2011 | 1999 Saturn SL
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Starting Problem # 1: Engine Won't Crank At All
Scenario: You turn the key, but nothing happens: And by nothing, we mean there is no dash light, no sound, nada. The first thing you should do in this case is to pop the hood and check the battery. Either the battery is completely dead or there's a wiring problem in the starting system. Try jump-starting the battery. If that doesn't work, you'll probably have to call for assistance.
Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a rapid clicking sound, and the dash lights dim. This is your classic low-battery symptom. Jump-starting the battery should get the engine to start.However, if you keep experiencing this problem, you could have a bad battery or alternator, or it could be something as simple as a loose alternator belt. Take your car to a mechanic just as soon as you can.
Scenario: When you turn the key, the lights on the dash come on, but you don't hear anything. Make sure you have the shift selector all the way in park. Move it out of park and then back, or try starting it with the shifter in neutral. If your car has a manual transmission, make sure you have the clutch pressed all the way to the floor. If that doesn't help, you can try jump-starting the battery, but it probably won't work. There's a good chance your car has a bad starter or a problem in the starting circuit. That could mean a problem in the ignition switch, neutral safety switch or starter solenoid.
Scenario: The dash lights come on when you turn the key, and then go right out, and the engine doesn't crank when you turn the key to start, But, the lights slowly come back on when you release the key. This is another classic: the bad battery connection. When you turn the key to start, the starter pulls so much current that it breaks the connection. Then, when you release the key, the connection slowly comes back. The connection provides enough power to turn the dash lights on, but not enough to crank the starter. Cleaning and tightening the battery terminals may fix this problem.
Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a single, hard clunk. Turn the headlights on and try again. Do the lights dim slightly when you turn the key? If so, you probably have a bad starter or a seized engine. If the headlights don't dim at all, or just barely dim, there may be a connection problem between the starter solenoid and the starter itself.
Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a loud, scraping or grinding sound like metal on metal. The starter drive is bad, or the ring gear on the flywheel damaged, or both. You may get the starter to engage if you try turning the key a couple of times, but let go of the key right away if you hear the noise again. If the car does start, you should drive it right over to local repair shop and have the problem fixed.
Starting Problem #2: Engine Cranks but It Won't Start
Scenario: The engine seems to crank normally, but the engine doesn't even sound as if it's trying to start. Is there gas in the tank? Gas gauges are notoriously inaccurate. If you have to move your head to one side to get the needle to move off empty, try adding some gas to the tank.
Scenario: When you first turn the key on, you don't hear the fuel pump run. In cars with electronic fuel injection, you should hear a light hum a few seconds from around the fuel tank. That's the electric fuel pump running. If you don't hear the fuel pump run for a couple seconds when you first turn the key on, try cranking the engine until the oil light goes out. That may start the pump running and allow the engine to start.
Scenario: The engine cranks normally, and it sounds like it wants to start, but it won't. You may have flooded the engine. Hold the gas floor and try again. (Let the gas pedal up when it finally starts). If it's raining out, the ignition system may be wet.
Scenario: The engine cranks unevenly in a repetitive-sounding pattern. You may have a bad timing chain or timing belt. Call a tow truck and have it towed to the repair shop.
Starting Problem # 3: Engine Starts but It Shuts Off
Scenario: The engine starts right up, but shuts off as soon as you release the key. This is the classic symptom of a bad ignition switch. A new switch should fix it.
Scenario: The engine starts and runs, but when you put the transmission in gear, the car lurches and the engine shuts off. The converter clutch in the transmission torque converter probably is engaging when it shouldn't. On some cars, you can bypass this by disconnecting the torque converter clutch solenoid; but unless you know which wire to pull, forget about it. Call for assistance.
Scenario: The engine starts and runs, but seems to idle slowly and stalls when you come to a stop. This probably is a fast idle problem. When the engine is cold, it's supposed to idle a little faster than normal to keep the engine running. You may be able to drive using two feet until the engine warms up: one on the gas to hold the idle up a little and the other for the brake. However, don't keep driving it this way. Take your car to your repair shop just as soon as you
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