Take off the plastic air duct then split the plenum ( that's the aluminum thing on top) this should be 10mm Allen screws. you will need a new gasket for the plenum. inside the plenum there are a few more screws to take off the lower portion of the plenum attached to the intake manifold. remove the lower plenum ( you will need a new gasket here too). Once here there are 4 more allen screws to remove the fuel rail. if you pull the injectors from the intake manifold you will need "O" ring gaskets and a drop of oil to reinstall. here is a side note that will make your life allot easier: If it looks like it's in the way, remove it, because it is. This will save you hours in the end.
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YEP REMOVE TOP ENGINE COVER AND DISCONNECT INJECTORS ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR,REMOVE FUEL RETURN LINE FROM INJECTOR, REMOVE FUEL INJECTOR HIGH PRESSURE LINE, REMOVE FUEL INJECTOR RETAINER AND RETAINING BOLT,THEN REMOVE FUEL INJECTOR FROM THE CYLINDER HEAD. YOU NEED A FUEL INJECTOR EXTRACTOR TOOL 9075A ON TO INJECTOR AND CYLINDER HEAD.YOU DONT HAVE TO REMOVE THE ENGINE.
The "spider" injector is the problem. You're right that one of the injectors is stuck open, unfortunately it has to be replaced as an assembly. This a common problem on the Vortec V-6's. When you were checking the fuel pressure, the fuel was passing through the open injector, giving you a low reading. After replacing the injector assembly, be sure to change your oil before you start the engine. I'd be willing to be you have a pint or two of gasoline that has gotten into the crankcase. That injector unit will cost you around $350. It's not too hard to put in, just be careful.
the computer gives the injector a signal to open and close check the plug to a injector 1 wire should have 12 volts all the time with key on and 1 should pulse a ground on and off when the engine is cranking over
I'm a bit confused concerning your spark plug wires as the standard 2.2 engine does not have them, so my suggestion is based on the 2.2 engine as the 4 cylinder you state you have. If the secondary electrical has been replaced, I would suggest inspecting the fuel injectors for operation. The easiest way to test the operation of the fuel injectors is to
listen for a clicking sound coming from the injectors while the engine
is running. This is accomplished using a mechanic's stethoscope, or a
long screwdriver. Place the end of the stethoscope or the screwdriver
(tip end, not handle) onto the body of the injector. Place the ear
pieces of the stethoscope in your ears, or if using a screwdriver,
place your ear on top of the handle. An audible clicking noise should
be heard; this is the solenoid operating. If the injector makes this
noise, the injector driver circuit and computer are operating as
designed. Continue testing all the injectors this way. If all appear to be functioning we can move on to the next suggestion. Let me know. Regards.