I have a 2002 ford taurus SE, coil pack has been replaced because Advanced Auto ran a diagnostic and said my coil pack was bad. Well its not and im still not getting fire on #3 and #4 spark plugs. changed the plugs and checked the wires. Could it be crankshaft sensor, which im guessing would fire all not some, camshaft sensor but that regulates fuel, a break in wiring harness but is it common or should i look towards EEC(pcm)?

SOURCE: 1995 taurus eec-v schematic

here it is

SOURCE: 1990 FORD F 150,SPARK ON THE COIL BUT NO FROM THE DISTRIBUTOR

i had the same problem. there is a group of wires that go by the distributer and branch off to the distributer and go towards the front. when i would jiggle it the van would die. it ended up being a pinched wire.

Josue Almodovar

• 298 Answers
• Posted on Sep 04, 2009

SOURCE: I have a 1995 Ford Taurus SHO 3.0 liters. I

Hi did you do a continuity check check if there's a wire shorted or open you'll need a volt meter check if the wires on the crank sensor going to the control module and also the one from the coil to the module there has to be a shorted or open wire check this and get back to me good luck

SOURCE: 1999 ford ranger 4x4 4.0L

your codes are your truck is over heating and u have bad o2 sensores canobd2.com

SOURCE: i have a 2000 ford

WOW! I bet that was expensive!!! It sounds like we're saving money on the D.I.Y. now!

Please review this article:

What Else Could Be Wrong?

Your problem could be caused by the Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS) - it may be malfunctioning and disabling the ignition system. (Not recognizing your key, or low ignition voltage to the PATS module, etc.)

It could be interference from any aftermarket equipment that you may have installed on your vehicle like remote start, security/alarm system, etc. If you don't have any aftermarket equipment installed, just disregard this. If you DO have aftermarket equipment installed, The troubleshooting charts published by Ford Motor Company for your vehicle state that proper diagnosis can only begin AFTER all such equipment is COMPLETELY removed from the vehicle and the vehicle must be RESTORED to a factory-like configuration. (Otherwise you could be spinning your wheels for weeks trying to figure out what is wrong.)

It could be a failed Powertrain Control Module (PCM). It could be a bad ignition switch not providing power to the PCM. It could be a bad PCM Power Relay. It could be any one of several sensors shorting out the 5-volt reference signal from the PCM. (Which would render the NEW crank sensor and cam sensor useless.)

In short, it COULD be caused by a LONG list of things.
The FIRST STEP in the troubleshooting charts is to SCAN THE PCM for fault codes. You are dealing with a computer-controlled ignition system and you cannot simply ignore the computer that controls it and expect to figure out why it is malfunctioning.

NOTE: a "generic OBD" code reader may or may not be sufficient to identify the source of your problem. Most generic code readers cannot access the General Electronic Module (GEM) or your PATS. They can also only read "Continuous Memory" codes. They do not have the technology required to perform Key-On-Engine-Off (KOEO) or Key-On-Engine-Running (KOER) diagnosis. If you have more than one code in continuous memory, then KOEO diagnostics must be performed to determine which code has priority in the diagnostic routine. KOEO codes are known as "HARD FAULTS" - which means that the problem is present RIGHT NOW. The continuous memory codes can sometimes cause confusion because sometimes the problem has already been fixed, but the codes did not get cleared properly, so the code is still in memory, but the problem that caused the code no longer exists. Continuous memory codes should always be placed on the "back burner" unless they are the only codes present. Again, a generic code reader can't read any other codes, so you don't know what is what unless you clear the codes and are able to get the code to set in continuous memory again. (Only then, can is be considered a "current" code.)