Massive electrical problems... need access to the wiring.
4 banger, auto.
Good car when it runs, but the wiring is shot... RPM gauge is never accurate... sometimes bounces along with the music lol.. other times redlined in park, sometimes on zero on the highway... I figure a wire is touching a ground somewhere, or just stripped in general. It's been that way since I've owned it.
Also clock has shorted out, one parking light has multiple personality disorder, and in general, driving can be somewhat hilarious. Mechanically it runs fine atm.
I'm gonna do a mass rewire, but I need to know how to open up the dash to get at the wiring behind the spedometer and such. I've put in a aftermarket stereo, and know how to crack the bottom.. but I can't figure out how to get in the top.
Can anybody give me a step by step??
we've also put in 2 batteries, 3 alternators, 4 starters and a partridge in a pear tree all within 3 years.... could bad wiring be the root cause? Mechanics say no, but it's the only thing I can think of that might cause a short in a brand new alternator..
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Hey! I have a 97 Maxima SE and it runs great too! I have been through 4 alternators in 12 years....3 in the first 5 and finally one for the last 7. Make sure you have a new- Nissan part specific alternator. And, make sure your battery is not weak nor small for your car size. Hope this helps!
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The electrical load on the alternator will pull the engine RPM down. It takes 10 H.P. to run the alternator. The only recourse to low RPM at idle would be to install a larger diameter pulley on the alternator. Extended idle could result in low battery charge rate. Should be fine at hi way speed. The alternator will not put out below 750 Rpm.
In accessory mode you won't notice the high current draw because the alternator is out of the circuit and the engine is not running. With the engine running, you will see the excessive draw on the volt/amp gauge. If bad enough it will pull the idle RPM down a bit.
Your blower motor is bad or the wiring has deteriated to the point of causing a high current draw. A good auto tech (or knowledgeable friend with a DVOM and amp gauge) can diagnose the problem in 10 minutes.
please state that again.
i start car, it starts ok
i run car it runs great.
it does something odd, running? , are you moving car, or coasting to a stop or what? , parked, or in gear, or neutral and what transmission in car, A/T or manaul, (auto /stick)?
and what happens, the engine stalls, is that it>?
and electric power, is that a guess, or a statement of fact,
eg: i see my gauges, and all lights go dead? be clear.
Many problems can be fixed by a Haynes Manual for your car and consulting it. on many cars the RPM gauge (or tachometer) is electrically powered. Read how to remove and reinstall the gauge cluster and what tabs to push to unplug the plugs. Then unplug them and check for corrosion. Unplugging them and plugging them back in 2 or 3 times will re-establish good electrical contact. If not, the contacts need to be cleaned with a tiny file.
check the MAP sensor (manifold absolute pressure). The ECM (car computer) uses that to keep idle at minimum 750 RPM. It's normal for it to run high when cold. These small 4 banger motors typically run hot, and they won't run right IF they're NOT running hot, ergo the idle is usually high when it is cold so as to cause it to warm up quicker. If the RPM's drop below 750, suspect the MAP sensor, &/or ECM.
The fault relates to the electric section and it is the ingnition unit that needs a check. You will need to check on the HT coils for the TRIGGER PULSATING VOLTAGES for the HT to be normal.
If there is absence of HT or low intensity then the ignition system is faulty. Also the trigger from these pulses feed the RPM indication and if the ingnition has fault then the RPM will be irregular.
So check this out using a multimter to confirm.
With the ac, sounds like you definitely have a short with the ac electrical wires. Have a mechanic check that out. 2. The wiring for the dashboard gauges may have tears or something is causing high resistance in them or you may need a new dashboard itself. Have that checked too.
As far as the brakes when you trying to change gears, what do you mean brake lock wont open? Finally with the RPM, I dont think your dashboard gauge is working correctly so you may need that replaced also.
I sugeest you open up the distributor and make sure that ALL the wires connected to the Ignition Module is fitting snugly onto each of the terminals. The BLUE wire is normally the RPM connection. Also see if the terminals on the outside of the Distributor are clean and making good contact. If needed you can unplug the socket, spray it clean with Carburettor Cleaner and lubricate it with normal Vaseline (Petroleum Jelly). Follow the Wiring Harness to the Fire Wall and do the same with the other Connecting Sockets. Hopefully this will solve your problem.