Question about 1997 Chevrolet K1500

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Quit and won't start

It was running fine and just quit. it will not start up since. it has spark to the plugs and seems to have fuel pressure. i released the fuel pressure and it built back up when ignition was turned on. any ideas. put in a new battery and didn't help.

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  • hdlou Oct 31, 2008

    it turns over fine but won't fire. It has fuel pressure but based on what you say may be low. It fired with the carburetor cleaner in the intake. I guess that make the fuel pump suspect. Is it real difficult to replace?

  • hdlou Nov 01, 2008

    thanks for the information. It is very thorough and detailed. I'll try the filter and I guess i'll roll up my sleeves and dive into it one way or the other.

  • Anonymous Jan 21, 2009

    they have done all this and the pump is getting fire but it still won't start. It is not getting the message to send fuel. Where is the fuse.

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Does it make any sound when you try to start it? Quite often helpful to know. I've helped start a number of vehicles by tapping on the solenoid--sometimes the teeth get off by a bit and a tap gets them back--usually a specific noise if that's the prob... The two main things that keep a car from starting--battery and fuel. Hopefully when you installed the battery, you cleaned the connections real well--sometimes they look fine, but can't get a connection. #2, check the fuel filter, simple thing to overlook, again it can seem like it's fine, but it's clogged, may or not affect the pressure.

Beyond this--try these, much more detail than I'd want to type here.
http://autorepair.about.com/od/troubleshooting/a/ts_no-start.htm

Posted on Oct 28, 2008

  • dcomputerman Nov 01, 2008

    Ah, not fun, this one has the fuel pump in the tank. Ok... browsing web for someone who has typed it out already...2 answers follow, I'd try the filter first, still a pain but easier...

    Answer 1:





    This will be fun (not!). The fuel pump is located on top of the gas
    tank, which is under the bed. So....ya gotta take the bed off of the
    truck first. After that, its simple but - unless you are certain that
    the problem is the fuel pump, try replacing the fuel filter first. This
    can also be an event because of its location (under the driver's-side
    cab, where it can catch all kinds of road crud). Be careful not to
    torque the fuel line or your fun will continue for many days.The fuel pressure needs to be (I believe) 50psi, which is the minimum
    factory pressure. But, the truck can run pretty well with a pressure
    reading over 43psi.Even if you still need to replace the fuel pump after replacing the
    filter, you should always replace the filter with the pump anyhow. So,
    you could be saving yourself a ton of frustration by replacing the
    filter first.








    LUCK!!!


    I have done it both ways by removing the bed and by dropping the
    tank. I prefer to remove the bed, but it will require some help.
    You need a couple people to help with the lifting, there are 6 (I
    think) bolts holding the bed. Disconnect the filler tube--3 screws
    behind the fuel door, I think there's enough slack in the taillight
    harness, but be sure. You'll only need to move the bed back a couple
    of feet, you'll be setting the part of the bed in front of the rear
    tire and the part behind the rear tine on the rear bumper. It's that
    simple, no draining the tank, no removing fuel lines, no benchpressing
    the tank.







    If you can't get the helpers you'll have to drop the tank, that
    requires a special fuel line disconnect tool--you can get it an auto
    parts store.





    Before you do this, be sure you haven't just blown a fuse or relay.









    Answer 2:


    With very few exceptions, fuel tanks must be removed in order to get
    the pump out. If that's the case, you'll have to move the car outdoors
    and drain the tank first. On your truck, it may be possible to access
    the pump without removing the tank. Look and see if there is enough
    room. I would not remove the bed. Much easier to remove the tank, IMO.

    Since few vehicles have a drain fitting on the fuel tank,
    you'll probably have to siphon the fuel out. Don't even think about
    sucking on a garden hose to do the job. Gasoline can cause cancer. And
    if you inhale a mouthful into your lungs, it can easily kill you.


    Keep in mind that fuel hoses can have residual pressure, as well as
    fuel that can spill out when it is removed. Eliminate pressure by
    cracking a fuel line loose near the engine or depressing the Schraeder
    valve on the fuel rail.

    Gas tanks are held in place with straps. Remove the bolts at
    the ends so the straps come off and the tank can be lowered. First,
    you'll have to disconnect the battery and raise the rear of the vehicle
    on wheel ramps. Then remove the fasteners behind the fuel-filler door
    that hold the fuel-filler neck to the body. Unbolt the tank clamps,
    then lower the tank slowly to the ground. The combination fuel
    pump/sending tank unit fits in a 2- to 3-in.-dia. hole on top of the
    tank. Disconnect any fuel lines and electrical connectors before
    unfastening the pump.


    Some pumps are mounted to the tank with a locking ring that rotates
    with large pliers. Some are mounted to a hole in the tank with a
    matching round plate that has five or six screws. After loosening the
    ring, or removing the screws, carefully lift the pump and sender out of
    the tank, being careful not to allow dirt and gasket material to fall
    into the tank.

    Never attempt to bench test a new or old pump. In-tank pumps use fuel
    for cooling and lubrication. Running one while dry will quickly damage
    it.

    To replace the pump, remove the fuel pump socket, fuel pump and
    pulse damper from the sending unit bracket. Many new pumps come with a
    new fuel sock and pulse damper as part of a kit. If these items are not
    with the kit, it's a good idea to replace them anyway. You should also
    replace any clamps and lengths of flexible fuel hose.


    This is the perfect time to inspect the fuel tank. Begin by inspecting
    and cleaning the area where the pump unit attaches to the tank. Then
    check the area under the tank straps. Even if the tank didn't leak
    before, removing the straps often enough loosens corrosion, which can
    result in pinhole leaks. You also should check all tank seams and make
    sure the tank isn't dented or creased anywhere.

    Before installing the new pump in the tank, attach the in-tank
    electrical wires. It's critical that the wires be installed in the same
    manner as the original pump. Often they are soldered. It might be
    tempting to switch to another type of connection, but, if it was
    originally soldered, then resolder the new connections.


    Next, coat the gasket surface on the pump unit and the gas tank with a
    gas-proof sealer, then install a new gasket on the tank before
    fastening the pump unit to the tank. Install the pressure line and
    return hoses to the outside of the pump unit, then install the outside
    wires and reattach the tank with the straps and refasten the
    fuel-filler neck to the body.


    Keep in mind that when a pump fails it usually creates excessive
    current for a while before there are driveability problems. That extra
    current can cause the points to become blue and overheated in the fuel
    pump relay and the oil pressure switch, which in turn can raise
    resistance and lower voltage to the pump. For these reasons, it's a
    good idea to replace the fuel pump relay and the oil pump switch
    whenever you replace a bad pump.


    Once the pump and related parts are installed and tightened up, add
    some fuel to the tank, start the engine, check for leaks and perform
    the previously mentioned fuel pressure checks to make sure the pump is
    performing to specs.




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