Have radiator loose but can't get the right top 'L' shaped clip off of top support. does the a/c condenser have to be removed first? also can't get the wire at bottom left unhooked. any help will be much appreciated.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
drain coolant drain cock is at lower driver side .remove air cleaner.remove the electrical conaction.
remove right side diagonal brace remove upper radiator support and rotate reward remove the upper radiator hose remove upper radiator mount remove cooling fan shroud bolts "disconnect outlet hose from the water pump raise the vehicle disconnect outlet hose from the radiator
disconnect oil cooler hoses from top side of the radiator as follows
disengage the plastic cap from the quick connect fitting pull the plastic cap back along the pipe hold one leg of retaining clip
using a small bent screwdriver gently disengage the other end of the retaining clip from the quick content fitting rotate the retaining clip out of the quick connect fitting remove the retaining clip completely
remove the nut which secures the AC discharge hose remove the inlet tube remove radiator and condenser assembly
(Try to remove the radiator and keep the AC condenser In place)
I changed my 2001 Toyota Highlander headlights recently. First, remove the grille. There is one screw in the center which will require a loonng Phillips screwdriver to reach it, down behind the grille, right in the center. Then remove the four plastic clips at the top by prying them up with a small flathead screwdriver. The bottom just pulls forward.
Important: Now go to each side of the car, and in front of each fender well, there is one clip that holds the bumper cover on. Pull the top corner of the bumper cover toward you to release the clips, one on each side, at the top corner, along the front of each fender well where the bumper cover meets the fender. The bumper cover can now be loosened along the top without entirely removing it. It just pulls forward. Inspect the underside of the bumper cover for broken clips and replace as necessary.
Now remove the two bolts that hold down each headlight at the top.
Disconnect the wiring and bulbs and wiggle the old headlights out.
Install the new ones and reverse the process.
If your AC isn't blowing cold, check the condenser for leaks before you reinstall the grille. A new aftermarket condenser/filter dryer is easy to install by removing the battery and tilting the radiator back to get the condenser out. A replacement only costs $75 and can be swapped out in one half hour with a few metric sockets. Then you will need to recharge the AC system with R-134a, which is easy. Just buy a R-134a kit with hose at Autozone and follow the directions. $50
Replacement fog lights are only $52/pair for aftermarket. You may consider replacing those as well. They have a strange installation with clips and you will need to pry/bop them forward, not remove them from the back. They are aggravating to replace but not technically difficult.
Hope this helps, it it does please leave feedback and vote Thank You and Good Luck
J 38185 Hose Clamp Pliers
Caution: Before servicing any electrical component, the ignition key
must be in the OFF or LOCK position and all electrical loads must be
OFF, unless instructed otherwise in these procedures. If a tool or
equipment could easily come in contact with a live exposed electrical
terminal, also disconnect the negative battery cable. Failure to follow
these precautions may cause personal injury and/or damage to the
vehicle or its components.
2. Start by removing the air tube over radiator by pulling off the 2
small plastic clips attached over the radiator. There is also a sensor
connected on the bottom right side near the airbox, so don't just yank
3. Remove the airbox using the 10mm socket with 6" extension - there
are three 10mm bolts holding it down - two behind the airbox and one in
4. Undo the clips holding the wires for the fan and o2 sensor, then disconnect the connector for the fan.
5. Undo the single 10mm bolt holding the fan to the radiator on the
drivers side. Lift up on the left hand side and work the fan housing
out at an angle. Careful of the A/C lines - don't force it. The wire
clips may bind on the A/C lines, I removed the top wire clip and it made
it easier to get out.
6. Remove radiator cap and drain radiator. Simply turn the drain plug
on the passenger side and let it drain - it took about 10 minutes to
fully drain for me.
7. Undo the two 10mm bolts holding the radiator brackets using the deep well socket.
8. Drain block - single 10mm bolt under the lower radiator hose / thermostat housing.
9. Remove upper radiator hose.
10. Remove Lower radiator hose.
10a. If you have an automatic transmission
disconnect the cooler lines at this point, using a flare nut wrench.
If you cannot get them off, you can remove them at the transmission
side, and purchase new ones from the dealer. Plan on these not coming
off, if the car is more than 6 or 7 years old.
11. Remove the two 10mm bolts (one on driver side and one on passenger
side) holding the AC condenser to the front of the radiator. These can
be a pain to get off - lift the radiator and condenser as a unit out of
the rubber mounts to give you enough room to get a ratchet in there from
the front, under the bumper.
12. Lift up on the right side of the radiator to let it drain the rest
of the way (there will still be a little coolant left after you drained
13. Install new radiator. You may need to remove the metal clips for
the bolts off the old radiator and install them on the new one.
Reconnect the two 10mm bolts holding the condenser to the radiator on
the same way you took them off - this is a real pain. Reconnect the two
10mm bolts for the upper brackets of the radiator using the 10mm deep
14. Re-install the upper radiator mounts.
15. Install lower radiator hose. Now is a good time to replace the
hoses. Use hose grease to make it much easier to get them on. It is
also a good time to replace the clamps.
16. Install fan - be sure to re-clip the o2 sensor wire and fan wires,
otherwise they may get caught in the fan. Re-connect the fan connector.
17. Install new upper radiator hose. Before you install this it is a
good time to replace the ECTS if you still have the original plastic
tipped one, it's easier to get to.
17a. Auto Transmission - reconnect the cooler lines.
18. Reinstall airbox, air ducts, re-connect the air temperature sensor.
19. Refill radiator. You will need to check the level periodically over the next few days and add as necessary.
Below are instructions and a diagram for removing the radiator from your Santa Fe. There's nothing involving the motor mounts. Best of luck and please post back with any questions or just to rate the solution. Greg
Drain the cooling system. Remove the radiator cap to speed draining.
Remove the inlet hose from the radiator.
Remove the transmission oil cooler lines from the retainer clip at the bottom of the cooling fan shroud.
Remove the fan shroud clip from the condenser tubes.
Remove the bolt that connects the fan shroud to the condenser hold down bracket.
Remove the air deflectors from the top of the radiator.
Remove the cooling fan shroud bolts.
Remove the coolant reservoir hose from the radiator overflow neck.
Remove the radiator upper support brackets and bolts that connect to the fan shroud.
Disconnect the engine cooling fan motors electrical connectors.
Remove the cooling fan motors electrical harness from the fan shroud clips.
Remove the cooling fan shroud.
Remove the outlet hose from the radiator.
Disconnect the transaxle oil cooler pipes from the radiator.
Tilt the top of the radiator rearward.
Remove the condenser hold down bracket from the radiator.
Lift the condenser from the mounting tabs on the radiator and position the condenser aside.
No it is not difficult to replace a radiator it can be done with basic handtools I would not suggest a used radiator, if at all possible spend a little extra now and buy one with the best warranty (lifetime) available although with a new one you are looking at approx $250 plus coolant. Here is the proper procedure for replacment Grand Cherokee
See Figures 9, 10 and 11
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Open the radiator valve and drain the cooling system.
Remove the fan and shroud assembly.
Fig. 9: Radiator and condenser mounting
If equipped, disconnect the automatic transmission cooling line quick-fit connections.
Matchmark the upper radiator crossmember and adjust the crossmember to the left or right.
Fig. 10: Radiator upper crossmember assembly
Eight clips are used to retain a rubber seal to the body. Gently pry up the outboard clips (2 per side) until the rubber seal can be removed. Do not remove the seals entirely. Fold back the seal on both sides to access the grille opening reinforcement mounting bolts and remove the bolts.
Remove the grille.
Remove the upper brace bolt from each of the 2 radiator braces.
Remove the crossmember-to-radiator mounting nuts.
Working through the grille opening, remove the lower bracket bolt securing the lower part of the hood latch or hood latch cable from the crossmember.
Lift the crossmember straight up and position it aside.
If equipped with A/C, remove the 2 A/C condenser-to-radiator mounting bolts which also retain the side mounted rubber air seals.
If not equipped with A/C, remove the bolts retaining the side mounted rubber air seals compressed between the radiator and crossmember.
Note the location of the air seals. To prevent overheating, they must be installed in their original position.
Disconnect the coolant reservoir/overflow tank hose from the radiator.
Disconnect the upper hose from the radiator.
Carefully lift the radiator a slight amount and disconnect the lower hose from the radiator.
Lift the radiator up and out of the engine compartment, take care not to scrape the fins or disturb the A/C condenser if equipped.
If equipped with an auxiliary automatic transmission oil cooler, use caution during radiator removal. The oil cooler lines are routed through a rubber air seal on the left side of the radiator. Do not cut or tear this seal. To install: Fig. 11: Radiator alignment dowels
Lower the radiator into the vehicle. Guide the alignment dowels into the hoses in the rubber air seals and then through the A/C support brackets, if equipped. Continue to guide the radiator through the rubber grommets located in the lower crossmember.
If equipped with A/C, the L-shaped brackets, located on the bottom of the condenser, must be positioned between the bottom of the rubber air seals and top of rubber grommets.
Connect the lower radiator hose to the radiator.
Connect the upper radiator hose to the radiator.
If equipped with A/C, install the bolts condenser-to-radiator mounting bolts.
If not equipped with A/C, install the rubber air seal retaining bolts.
Connect the reservoir/overflow tank hose to the radiator.
If the radiator-to-upper crossmember rubber insulators were removed, install them.
Install the hood latch support bracket-to-lower frame crossmember bolt.
Install the bolts securing the upper radiator crossmember to the body.
Install the radiator-to-upper crossmember nuts.
Install a bolt to each upper radiator brace.
Install the grille.
Position the rubber seal and push down on the clips until seated.
If equipped, connect the transmission cooling lines.
Install the fan shroud with the fan.
Install the fan and shroud.
Rotate the fan blades and ensure they do not interfere with the shroud and at least 1 inch (25mm) of clearance is allowed. Correct as necessary.