Question about 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
It's pretty simple. -Remove the tire -Install a punch into the fins of the rotor. Rotate the rotor counterclockwise until the punch hits the caliper and remove the axle nut. - I like to remove the outer tie rod end from the knuckle. This makes it easier to get at the caliper bracket bolts and the wheel hub bolts - remove the caliper and the rotor - unplug the abs harness - remove the three bolts that hold the hub to the knuckle. - remove the hub/bearing from the knuckle. The hub may be corroded and frozen a little to the knuckle. Sometimes it can take a bit of hammering to get them to pop. Also make sure you torque the axle nut to the correct torque spec. Failure to do this will causing the bearing to fail early! Let me know if you have any questions and I'll do my best to answer them. Thank you for using FixYa.com!
Posted on Feb 25, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: front wheel bearing replacement
Too long to write out but here are the essentials: Remove the center bolt that holds the front axle into the hub. (usually very tight...around 150 lbs torque....sometimes helps to have a shop loosen it and then put it back tight but less tight so you can remove it when you get it home)
Remove the caliper and rotor. Remove the three bolts that hold the bearing hub to the steering knuckle.
Soak the parting line between the hub and knuckle with wd40 or other solvent and use a chisel on alternating sides to work the hub free.
Clean and lube the cavity where the hub goes through the knuckle and reverse the process to re-install.
Posted on May 30, 2010
you have too change the whole assembly
pull the wheel pull the callipilar pull the callipliar mount pull the rotor pull the half shaft nut then take the three bolts out of the hub assembly and pull it less than hour job !!!!
Posted on Feb 24, 2009
SOURCE: replacing front wheel bearing
There are two bearings on teh front wheel, an inner and an outer bearing. Changing them is not hard if you are mechanically inclined. What you do is, jack the front end up to lift the wheel off the ground and put a jackstand to support the vehicle and put a block on teh rear wheels...DO NOT USE THE JACK ONLY!!!
Once the vehicle is up, remove the wheel to access the disc brakes.
Remove the caliper from the rotor and place it somewhere in the wheel well where the brake line will not be stressed...THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT...the job gets a LOT harder if the brake line breaks!
Next, remove the bearing cap to reveal the cotter pin and bearing nut, remove the cotter pin and nut DO NOT LOSE THESE!!!
You will see the outer bearing, remove it, the washer, and the race then pull the rotor off to reveal the inner bearing, race, and grease seal; remove these, DO NOT FORGET HOW THEY CAME OFF!!!
Clean the spindle and the rotor meaning get all the dirt and crud...this has to be squeaky clean or dirt will get inside and you will be replacing your bearings again in a couple of months.
Now, you need to pack the inner bearing with grease...what I do is wear nitrile gloves and scoop a handful of grease out of the container into the palm of my hand, then I take the new bearing and push it into the grease ensuring grease is in the bearing and coming out the other side.
Next install the grease seal, inner bearing and race by following the removal steps in reverse order. While you're at it, put a good amount of grease on the spindle...there is no such thing as too much grease.
Slide the rotor on until it makes with the inner bearing, make sure the rotor is on straight, if you can't get it straight the inner bearing is not on straight so do the inner bearing again to get it on straight and then put the rotor on...it should slide easily on with no resistance and rotate freely.
Now pack the outer bearing the same way you packed the inner bearing and slide it on the spindle. Install the washer, this will most likely have a tab on it to align the spindle, make sure the washer is on correctly.
Now you are going to reinstall the nut but only hand tighten it for now because you are going to have to spin the rotor forwards and backwards to ensure it rotates freely and is straight.
Once you determine the rotor is straight and rotates freely, tighten the nut about a quarter turn (no more than 16 foot-pounds). If the nut is castellated, ensure it is lined up with the hole in the spindle. Now install a new cotter pin...IT HAS TO BE NEW, using the old one increases the risk of the pin breaking which will let the nut loosen which will end up with your wheel coming off, most likely while you're doing 80 on the Interstate.
Once the cotter pin is installed and bent, fit the cap back on. The pin should be bent sufficiently to allow the cap to be tapped on.
Now reinstall the caliper and pads, put the wheel back on and you are done!
Posted on Oct 16, 2009
Tire and wheel assembly Caliper and rotor Wheel speed sensor and brake hose mounting bracket bolt from the steering knuckle Electrical connection for the wheel speed sensor Front drive halfshaft assembly on four wheel drive models Hub and bearing assembly mounting bolts Hub and bearing assembly O-ring seal from the steering knuckle bore (2500 series)
Hub and bearing assembly Hub and bearing assembly mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 133 ft. lbs. (180 Nm). Front drive halfshaft assembly on four wheel drive models Electrical connection for the wheel speed sensor Wheel speed sensor and brake hose mounting bracket bolt to the steering knuckle. Tighten to 106 inch lbs. (12 Nm). Rotor Tire and wheel assembly.
Posted on Jan 19, 2010
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