Question about 1993 Toyota Camry V6
Posted by Anonymous on
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Possible the smell is coming from the bacteria living on your ac evapourator. You can buy a spray for this that you set off inside the vehicle. Follow the instructions on the tin.
Posted on Aug 10, 2008
The most common cause is something inside the glove box jammed in the latch. Push glove box door release , and GENTLY insert a flat putty knife, plastic knife, or similar type tool in the groove of door, GENTLY try to pry open the door. U will probably (hopefully) find a napkin, map, or glove (does anybody actually put gloves in the glove box?) jammed in the inside latch. Let me know how u make out.
Posted on Nov 02, 2008
1. Look up along the lower radiator hose. It will plug into a metal
tube on the engine side. Follow the metal tube. It goes to a housing.
The housing is kind of buried in the driver's side of the engine. There
are 2 smaller coolant tubes plugged in above it. You do not need to
touch those, although it looks at first glance like you do.
2. Disconnect lower radiator hose at the metal tube.
3. Disconnect fan switches 1 and 2. These are on elecrtical harnesses going to this housing.
4. Disconnect a sensor on the front of the engine, just above the lower hose. I believe this is the knock sensor, but I'm not sure.
5. Now for the fun part. There are 3 bolts holding this housing on. You can see one at the top. There are 2 others underneath it, such that the bolts form a triangle pattern. You will have to get the bottom 2 out by feel (blind). They are 10mm.
6. Also, if you look to the front of the housing, you will note another 10mm bolt on the front holding down a black plastic leg. This is a wiring harness duct. Remove that bolt. Trace back along the duct. There is one more bolt on the driver's side retaining the duct. There is also one on the back of the engine at the firewall / driver's side. Remove these 2 as well.
7. There is a 12mm bolt holding the metal tube from that housing to the driver's side. Remove that bolt.
8. Gently pry the plastic wiring duct toward driver's side, and back toward firewall. You have just enough to get it off of the stud on the thermostat housing.
9. Now you can pull the housing. It will not come all the way out. It will come loose enough to give you just enough clearance to remove the thermostat (barely). Once you remove the thermostat, you have to pass it downward and toward the firewall to fumble it out.
By the way, you will notice that the metal tube is kind of wiggly in the thermostat housiung. This is normal.
10. Pass the new thermostat in the same way you got the old one out. Make sure when you plug it in that it has an air bleed poppet, and that this poppet is facing up.
11. Reassemble by reversing removal. Getting the nuts / bolts back in blind is... fun...
I don't know the torque spec. You can get a torqure wrench in there barely if you get creative with extensions, knuckles, etc. I wouldn't go abouve 8-10 ft-lb.
Posted on May 01, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Feb 10, 2015 | 2013 Toyota Camry
Dec 21, 2011 | 1994 Toyota Camry
Apr 26, 2011 | 1989 Toyota Camry
Sep 17, 2009 | 2000 Toyota Camry Solara
Jul 26, 2009 | 1994 Toyota Camry
Jan 20, 2009 | 1994 Toyota Camry
264 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: