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Rear brake diagram d21 nissan

Rear brake diagram

Posted by Anonymous on

4 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

sandman357
  • 236 Answers

SOURCE: where is fuel-filter on 2.4L D21 Nissan pickup?

it should be under the car close to the driver side door. if you can't see it trace it from the fuel tank it should be attached to the fuel line. if you have the repolacement in your hand you will know what you're looking for

Posted on Feb 28, 2010

iambanshee74
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SOURCE: 1987 nissan D21 spark plug diagram

Try this0900c1528004f121.jpg

Posted on Apr 27, 2010

  • 172 Answers

SOURCE: BRAKES LOCK UP WHILE DRIVING

I am interpreting your description to mean that the brakes seem to work fine for a while, but then they fail to release after a period of driving. If sounds right, the most common cause for this is that one or more of your disk brake calipers is sticking, failing to release even after you let off the brake pedal. Normally, only one caliper will fail at one time, meaning that the vehicle will pull strongly to the side where the brake has locked up. You can also test this theory by driving your Nissan until it starts to drag. Pull over and lightly touch each of the tire rims. One or more of them should be hot--possibly burning hot--to the touch from all the heat that's been generated by the stuck brake caliper. A wheel with a properly working brake will probably feel warm to the touch--but not super-hot, unless you've just completed a motorcross course or something that gave your brakes a real workout.

You can buy rebuild kits for most brake calipers, but, in all honesty, it may cost almost the same and be better in the long run to buy a factory-rebuilt caliper, trading in your old one for its core. Factory rebuilt calipers are sandblasted and carefully cleaned and painted before the new parts are installed; quite frankly, I've never done any of that when I've rebuilt my own calipers.

It's possible that you might have frozen calipers even if both brakes on an axle (i.e., both front or both back wheels) are locking up. You might have gotten moisture into both of them by driving through a deep puddle, etc.--or you might not have noticed the problem until both calipers started acting up, holding back your car even more. I don't believe that your truck has any kind of special one-way pressure relief valves in the brake lines, outside of what's in your master cylinder.

Another cause for your braking problem might be your master cylinder. Ordinarily, master cylinder problems show up as loss of braking--your brake pedal goes to the floor or becomes very mushy. However, it's possible that a faulty master cylinder with some internal corrosion could be failing to release pressure after it's been applied. If you've excluded the brake calipers as a cause, this would be the next place I'd check.

A final thought is to think about the age of the brake fluid in your system. If it's older than a few years--or you can't remember the last time your system was flushed--chances are that the fluid is old and has absorbed too much water to perform at its original specifications. I don't think that water in the lines would tend to lock up your brakes, but you could try flushing out your brake system by bleeding all the lines and feeding a steady supply of fresh fluid into your master cylinder. Start with the rear brakes and bleed the front brake that's closest to the master cylinder last. This won't be a quick pump the brakes a few times and look for air bubbles kind of bleed. Instead, you'll want to pull out a half cup or more of fluid at each brake (more at the back, to compensate for all the fluid in the extended brake lines), ensuring that fresh brake fluid is being pulled into the brake lines and into the brake fluid reservoirs at the calipers and at the rear drums.

Posted on May 19, 2011

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Visit the on-line store, know as reliable-store, they have the repair manuals. I'm sure you will get the solution of your problem.
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Break and battery light stays on all the time


sold all over earth, what country> we cant guess this....
don't break the brakes....!!!
my guess, you meant the
brake lamps are on keys in pocket. and the battery lamp is dash(charge) glows, keys in pocket. right?
and battery cable kills all this illegal states above. sure.

86 nissan PU.
720 PU>? Datsun>?
or D21 Nissan ( 1986 Dat-SUNS became NISSANS. in USA)
Model years 1986.5 (second half) and later were called Nissan Hardbody Trucks, chassis code D21.

D21 are called HARD BODY trucks. mid year changes.
so???? which is yours.

as you might not ,know , the models are wired diffrent by different exact models and country.
long ago , i had the 86 with the VG30 V6...

so i will roll the dice and answer for
D21
ok?

things off stay on, 101
bad wiring, hacked in wiring, radios,alarms and other things.
all can cause this..... its old and is common on old cars.
but if wiring is not hacked, (id see that in 10seconds in person)
no hacks.
gas engine car not diesel.
USA 86 body
brakes
Im looking now at the schematic and this car has a hot at all times
brake lamp switch. (foot pedal switch)
SO only a bad switch can cause this.... period
now the dash charge (battery ) light stuck on.


my online source ,has the alternator system missing.
so can not comment.
the lamp gets its power from the key switch
if the key switch fails , all warning lanps glow not just the
charge.(battery)
so its not that
my best guess is wiring errors, that put power the the cluster
key off. id bet that is it .

wiring errors to the ignition output is side, key switched power is failing.




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Click on the following free direct Link. It has the correct Timing Belt Diagram for your 1987 Nissan D21 Pickup with the unspecified 2.4L SOHC In-Line 4, or the 3.0L SOHC V6 Engine.

Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.com!


http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/year/1987/make/nissan/model/pickup/1987_nissan_pickup_timing_belt_diagram_marks.htm

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