Question about 1994 Chevrolet S-10 Blazer
After sitting for two years I was given a 1994 s10 Chevy Tahoe vortex blazer with 124,000 miles by my boyfriend who thought I could not fix it. I bought a Manuel on the truck and did step by step I change the fuel pump and fuel filter and also made sure that the GROUND from the tank was GROUNDED she stared right up, work for two years. then it started to stall on me after heating up and did not want to start back up half a hour later it would. I changed the distributor cap, ignition pick up coil assembly and made sure that it was positioned the same as the old one so the TIMING was right. change spark plug and wires. Have not had any problem since my boyfriend drive it to and from work around trip 80 mile with no problems it hard work for a girl but it the only vehicle i have I love my vortex SHE worth it. Now i going to change the heater core which sits behind the glove compartment passenger side.
I was given a 1994 s10 Chevy Tahoe vortex blazer??????? It's either a S-10 pick-up or it's a Tahoe or a Blazer not all three . So which is it ?
Posted on Mar 11, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Hi there, i have a guide that will help you troubleshoot this device. its a step by step situation that will help you find the issue with your fuel pump functions.
tep1 Go to the back of your car and take off the fuel filler cap. Ask an assistant to turn the ignition on but do not start the engine. Listen closely for a brief, vibratory sound coming from the tank. If you cannot hear the sound, go to the next step. Step2 Check the fuel pump circuit fuse. It should be in the fuse panel under the dashboard or in the engine compartment Verify that it is in good condition and the contacts are free from corrosion. If necessary, replace it and test the pump again. Step3 Inspect fuel lines, hoses and connectors. Make sure hoses are not torn, bent or obstructed. Verify there are no gas leaks. Step4 Locate the fuel pump relay. You might find it in the engine compartment, at the driver or passenger side and close to the windshield or at the front of the engine as part of a cluster of relays. Another common place is under the dashboard. Step5 Remove the fuel pump relay. Ask an assistant to turn the ignition on but do not start the engine. Using a test light, check for incoming voltage at the relay connector. If there is no voltage, check for an open or short at the wire between the relay and the fuse panel. Step6 Jump the relay connector to apply battery voltage to the fuel pump. After the jumper wire is connected, ask an assistant to turn on the ignition while you listen for fuel pump operation as described in step 1. If the fuel pump works now, replace the relay and test again. Another alternative is to test the fuel pump relay for proper operation. Step7 Locate the fuel pump connector at the back of the car and check for incoming voltage with a test light. While you check for voltage, ask an assistant to turn on the ignition but do not start the engine. If there is no voltage, check for an open or short at the wire between the relay and the fuel pump. Step8 Check the power and ground connections at the pump and make sure they are good and free of corrosion. Step9 Test the fuel pump. Apply direct voltage to the fuel pump. If you cannot easily remove the fuel pump through the trunk of your vehicle, you might want to take a fully charge car battery to the back of the car. Raise the vehicle and secure it firmly on jack stands. Unplug the fuel connector and use a couple of jumper wires to connect the battery to the fuel pump. If the pump does not work, replace it.
Please rate and god bless:)
Posted on Apr 01, 2009
SOURCE: 1992 Chevy G20 Van Dies
I had the same problem after it sitting over the winter. I changed the fuel filter and added water remover to my gas and let it sit over night for the water remover to work and the next day it ran fine.
Posted on Jul 13, 2009
This sound like an EGR valve that has gunk in the needle seat. Take the valve off and clean it thoroughly of if it is too bad replace it.
You can prove it is an EGR problem with a vacuum gage connected via a tee to a direct manifold sourced vacuum hose. A sudden drop in vacuum usually is caused by the EGR valve not seating.
Try this before you remove it for cleaning. The next time it does one of it's dead for 30 minutes episodes raise the hood and give the EGR valve a good whack with a screwdriver or hammer HANDLE. Then try to start it again. If it starts right up you know you need to FIX the EGR problem.
Thanks for using FixYa.
Posted on Mar 10, 2010
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