Question about 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Hi, My 2000 Caravan had the same thing. It is probably your lifters. I fixed my noisy lifters by putting a liter of tranny fluid in with the oil. I ran the van for about an hour or 2 then changed the oil.
Posted on Dec 08, 2008
SOURCE: I have a 2000 dodge
Pull the oil dipstick and see if you have a lot of bubbles in the oil. If your head gasket is blown you will have coolant mixing with oil causing the bubbles. If you don't see the bubbles, you may still have a bad head gasket but should consider that it may a be a bad intake manifold gasket. Look on the ends of the engine block - where the transmission attaches on the driver's side and the drive belt is on the passenger side. Look for signs of coolant leaking onto the outside of the block castings at the base of the lower intake manifold chamber (it looks sort of like the flattened bottom of a V) . If it's there you may just have the manifold gasket leak. My '03 T&C with the 3.3l had this problem. It ran rough, and only with no pedal being applied. Driving was tough to get it to the shop since it died at each stop light and required the gas pedal to be feathered to keep it running.
If you have more than amateur skills you can replace it yourself.
Posted on Dec 25, 2008
The fuse box is located under the hood. There is component map printed on the inside of the cover. This tells you on your model where the fuse or relay is located
Posted on Jan 19, 2010
Probably is the Body Control Module if you have checked the fuses in the fuse box and none are blown and you have verified power is coming to the wiper and signal switch. One simple fix you can try with the battery disconnected it to unplug and then replug the wriring harness to the BCM that fixed a Chrysler T&C that had the same problem. I also include what someone else gave as advice.
The body control module is located under the dash, directly behind the junction block that contains all the fuses/relays/plugs. The way you could verify that the wiring up to the bcm (from the wiper control) is working, before you go to the expense of replacing it, would be to locate the black plug on the bottom of the bcm (if you look under the junction block/bcm assembly you should see a gray connector and a black connector protruding from the underside of the bcm) and pull that plug, which is the one closer to the cowl. I believe you will find a dark green/yellow wire on pin #7 (from the wiper control) of the plug and a black/light green wire on pin #10 (ground). You may probe those wires with straight pins inserted thru the insulation so as to contact the internal conductor, then replace the plug (but make sure the straight pins don' touch oneanother), turn on the ignition switch to 'run', and measure the voltage between the two pins, you should find that the voltage will change proportionately as you cycle the wiper control through the six different positions of intermittancy. If not, then there is something the matter with the wiper control or its wiring. If the voltage is changing proportionately, then the manual does say to replace the bcm as the solution for that problem.
Posted on May 25, 2010
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