Question about Cars & Trucks
I REBUILT THE CARB. TOOK APART & CLEANED EVERYTHING WITH THE EXCEPTION OF REMOVING PLUGS IN THE MAIN WELL ECONOMIZER BODY ASSY. RE-ASSEMBLED & SET THE FLOAT LEVEL TO 3/8 INCH PER INSTRUCTIONS & INSTALLED CARB. ON TRUCK.THE ENGINE 223-CID STARTED RIGHT UP & RAN FINE .I SET THE IDLE & IDLE MIXTURE & AFTER LETTING IT RUN GAVE IT SOME THROTTLE SEVERAL TIMES & IT CAME BACK DOWN TO AN IDLE JUST FINE.THE PROBLEM IS AFTER RUNNING FOR ABOUT 10-MIN.IT STARTED DUMPING FUEL INTO THE AIR HORN FROM THE BIGGER OF 2 SMALL HOLES IN THE FRONT OF THE AIR HORN FACING UP.I KNOW THESE 2 HOLES GO THROUGH PASSAGES INTO THE MAIN WELL.I HAVE HAD IT APART 8 TIMES,CLEANED & CHECKED EVERYTHING,SEALED THE INLET SCREW TO INLET NEEDLE SEAT HOUSING,TRIED ADJUSTING THE FLOAT LEVEL UP & DOWN SLIGHTLY & STILL IT WILL START & RUN FOR A WHILE AND THEN FLOOD OUT AT AN IDLE.IT HAS 19 TO 20 HG VACUUM IN THE MANUFOLD AT AN IDLE HOLDING STEADY.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 1976 Gran Torino motorcraft 2150
Are you sure your idle ports ( size of pinhole) in carb aren't plugged with something? What happens if it starts to die, and you give it a quick squirt of WD-40 , down throat of carb?
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My problem was solved when I repaired my 4 wd activation dash switch. The switch was contacting on 2WD & 4HI at the same time. The front differential activation is vacuum activated possibly creating a tug of war that didn't actually engage it but drained off vacuum from the engine? A theory at best but stumbbled across it because I knew the switch wasn't working properly I repaired it and low and behold rough idle disappeared and all is good for 3 weeks running.
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When the service engine soon light is flashing there is a miss fire in the motor if you look in your owners manual it will tell you that.The same thing happend to me and it endid up to be the cat...
Posted on Mar 17, 2009
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