Question about Cars & Trucks
I REBUILT THE CARB. TOOK APART & CLEANED EVERYTHING WITH THE EXCEPTION OF REMOVING PLUGS IN THE MAIN WELL ECONOMIZER BODY ASSY. RE-ASSEMBLED & SET THE FLOAT LEVEL TO 3/8 INCH PER INSTRUCTIONS & INSTALLED CARB. ON TRUCK.THE ENGINE 223-CID STARTED RIGHT UP & RAN FINE .I SET THE IDLE & IDLE MIXTURE & AFTER LETTING IT RUN GAVE IT SOME THROTTLE SEVERAL TIMES & IT CAME BACK DOWN TO AN IDLE JUST FINE.THE PROBLEM IS AFTER RUNNING FOR ABOUT 10-MIN.IT STARTED DUMPING FUEL INTO THE AIR HORN FROM THE BIGGER OF 2 SMALL HOLES IN THE FRONT OF THE AIR HORN FACING UP.I KNOW THESE 2 HOLES GO THROUGH PASSAGES INTO THE MAIN WELL.I HAVE HAD IT APART 8 TIMES,CLEANED & CHECKED EVERYTHING,SEALED THE INLET SCREW TO INLET NEEDLE SEAT HOUSING,TRIED ADJUSTING THE FLOAT LEVEL UP & DOWN SLIGHTLY & STILL IT WILL START & RUN FOR A WHILE AND THEN FLOOD OUT AT AN IDLE.IT HAS 19 TO 20 HG VACUUM IN THE MANUFOLD AT AN IDLE HOLDING STEADY.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 1976 Gran Torino motorcraft 2150
Are you sure your idle ports ( size of pinhole) in carb aren't plugged with something? What happens if it starts to die, and you give it a quick squirt of WD-40 , down throat of carb?
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My problem was solved when I repaired my 4 wd activation dash switch. The switch was contacting on 2WD & 4HI at the same time. The front differential activation is vacuum activated possibly creating a tug of war that didn't actually engage it but drained off vacuum from the engine? A theory at best but stumbbled across it because I knew the switch wasn't working properly I repaired it and low and behold rough idle disappeared and all is good for 3 weeks running.
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When the service engine soon light is flashing there is a miss fire in the motor if you look in your owners manual it will tell you that.The same thing happend to me and it endid up to be the cat...
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