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The wiring in my 91 chevy s10 motor is grounded. The wiring to the alternator is grounded so nothing is getting power. What could cause this?

I was driving my truck and everything shut off, the only thing that worked was the headlights. I towed the truck home it set in my driveway for a week and all of a sudden the flasher lights came on. I went out to see what was going on. The lights would not go off no matter what I did. The motor did start and run, until I turned on the defrost then everything shutdown again. I have to unhook the battery everytime I leave the truck. Now when I test the continuity everything is grounded. What could be causing this?

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 89 Firebird blown 2nd alternator in a month!!!!!! NEED HELP!!!!

dude i tell you right now you problem is in where you get your alt from
take it back to auto zone get your money back after having these defect units. go to napa pep boys or advanced. get one of there alternators, and have them put it on there tester make sure it is putting out at least 12.35 volts minimum, it will probably be around 14. to 16. volts have battery charged before starting. after starting the car put voltmeter to back alternator elec. post once again. as long as your voltmeter reads above 13.25 volt you are good. hope this helps the situation


Posted on Apr 15, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Chevy S10 Tail Light issue

CHEVY S-10 TAIL LIGHTS PROBLEM RESOLVED...It seems Chevy engineered a ground shorting clip located under the left rear bumper area. It looks like a connector for trailer wiring harness, but in actuallity is a metal shorting clip which ties 5 wires together. They are all the ground wires for the tail lights. Then one single small wire runs to ground completeing the circuit. Problem is that this one wire is not tough enough to be a strain relief for the grounding plug and over time the ground wire wears, leaving intermittent lighting problems. FIX IS TO SPLICE THE GROUND WIRE INTO ONE OF THE FIVE OTHER WIRES AND USE PLASTIC TY WRAP FOR STRAIN RELIEF. This fixes no tail lights, intermittent rear signals, and other significant problems. I just got done making this same repair on a 2000 s-10 and everything works fine. Since it is the strain on the single ground wire connected to the connector that leads to failure, it is best to tie a new ground or clip the ground wire coming out of the plug and resplice it into one of the other five wires. Does not matter which one since electrically it makes no difference; they are all gound wires. BUT only one wire completes the connection and that is the problem. Really good engineering Chevy! The location is under left rear of bed in wiring harness right before the split. The connector is blue or green. Take the cover off to see the metal shorting clip. Also note the ground wire coming out of the plug/connector and runs about 8 inches to frame. If this is not hooked up you will have tail light issues. If you register on Autozone .com you can access wiring schematics for free. BL

Posted on May 16, 2009

  • 157 Answers

SOURCE: S10 Intermittent start, Electrical

Check you battery cables to make sure they are not corroded, and on tight. Check ground wires for the same, inside the engine compartment, and inside the passenger compartment.

Posted on Aug 26, 2009

  • 11 Answers

SOURCE: 1989 Dodge Raider

If you are getting power to anything else (such as the interior light) then this isn't your fix but, I had a similar issue where by 88 Raider ran fine but then would quit. I tested the battery and it was fine. However, the connectors for the battery were bad and weren't holding tight. I found it by pushing on the battery and one of the terminals just lifted off. Lucky is better than good sometimes.

Posted on Oct 20, 2009

  • 7 Answers

SOURCE: 2002 Chevy s10 electrical problems

Not to well versed on the S-10 electrical system but I would take a look at the voltage regulator.
It sounds like there is a malfunction that charges your battery sometimes but shorts out the alternator other times. Try having it tested or replace it
WD-40 will not do the trick for cleaning your terminals. WD-40 was developed during the 2nd WW to combat moisture in radio equipment in the South Pacific. WD stands for water displacement and the 40 is for formula #40. To clean the terminals you must disconnect them and use an abrasive such as emery cloth to remove the corrosion. They should be brite and shiny when you put them back together. I always cote mine wit dei-electric grease before re-assembly

Posted on Nov 21, 2009

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