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Clunking in honda odyssey going over road bumps

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 30 Answers

SOURCE: CLUNK IN REAR

There's a few more things to check out:
1. The track bar links, which attach from frame to the sway bar. Inspect the bolts/nuts to ensure they are really tight and the rubber isn't worn to the point of slack.
2. The bushings where the upper control arm attach to the frame. Inspect these for torn rubber/missing bolts. (These 2 bushings are on the fore end of the wishbone where you changed the upper ball joint.)
3. The bushings in the other, straight control arms that restrain the differential.
4. The shock absorber bolts/rubbers at frame and axle.
5. The u-joints on drive shaft.
6. The differential input pinion bearings. Raise vehicle and really yank/pry/push around the drive shaft and look for any slack.
7. The drive shaft at transmission. Check for any play over 0.020", side to side, up and down.
8. The transmission rubber mount.
9. The axle bearings. To check these, lift under axle, each wheel, and yank wheel fore/aft, up/down, and maybe use a pry bar. You're looking for axle bearing wear where the axle is supported at the outer ends of the axle tubes, just behind the brake mountings.
10. While the vehicle is raised (wheels off ground), chock the front wheels, and put transmission in neutral. Now check for significant slack when you manually rotate the wheels by hand, back and forth. If slack here (say, 10-15 degrees of fore/aft rotation on a wheel), then the spider gears are probably worn at the cross shaft in the differential carrier. Depending on the amount of slack, you can change the spider gears, side gears, cross shaft, and the associated thrust washers yourself, if you're a capable mechanic. This requires opening the differential cover, removing the rear axles (at least far enough to get the axles out from the side gears), remove the cross pin retainer bolt, manipulate the cross shaft out, manipulate the spider gears with their thrust washers, out, manipulate the side gears, with their thrust washers, out, then replace the above, with a 'gear kit', which includes the side gears, new thrust washer, spider gears, with new thrust washers, cross pin, and cross pin retainer. A 'gear kit' is around $85 for the Dana 44, 30-spline axle kit. While those parts are out, pry the carrier in each direction inspecting for slack in the carrier bearings and check the pinion/ring gear slack at that time. If you find a bad carrier bearing or pinion bearing, then you should probably find a mechanic to replace those, unless you're a 'very capable' mechanic. After reassembling the gear kit (side gears with their respective thrust washers, spider gears, with their respective thrust washers), cross pin, and retainer bolt, clean the sealing mating surface of both the axle housing and cover, remove the fill plug from the cover, apply RTV sealer to the cover (1/4" bead), attach the cover with bolts, replacing the tags in their original locations, refill differential with either 85w oil or 70W140 synthetic, as desired, approx 2.3 liters, replace plug, and check for leaks. Note: when removing the differential cover, remove all but 2 mid-side bolts, and make them loose. Then tap the very bottom of the lid towards the rear to loosen the cover, have drain pan under the differential to catch the oil. Then remove the 2 remaining bolts and cover. The lid projects below the housing about 1/16" and that is the part of the lid you want to bump on to loosen the cover.
11. Rear disc brake caliper mounting brackets.
12. The sway bar rubber mountings on the axle.

.. and that pretty much covers everything that can make noise on/in the rear end.

13. If a tow hitch is attached, check that for proper attachment.
14.Fuel tank loose, or fuel pump inside tank loose.
15. Spare tire loose, or junk in the spare tire carrier hole.
16. Loose junk in the right rear side compartment (this is actually a CD changer compartment, but if no CD changer is installed, then people put all kinds of junk in there)
17. Rear lift door. Open it a bit and check for side to side play. I've heard of terrible noise on my rear lift gate, and it was the rubber wind seal making a bunch of noise. I wiped it with a rag I sprayed silicone oil onto and quieted that down.

Posted on Aug 18, 2008

  • 12 Answers

SOURCE: Loud clunking noise in front end over bumps

There was a recall a year ago on some PLASTIC parts that were installed in the steering colum you may incuire at your dealership, this is covered under the recall and will not cost you anything.

Posted on Nov 22, 2008

localwonder
  • 6784 Answers

SOURCE: Loud clunking noise in 2008 Pontiac G5

HI, i would inspect the strut assembly for loose structure asap. i would also inspect the wheel knuckle and rotor and tie rod ends for loose fit as well. inspect thoroughly.

Its most likely the CV-joint assembly. the boot may have slipped off, allowing the joint assembly to dry up. i advise to inspect all the above before looking at the CV-half joint assembly and boot.

Posted on May 25, 2009

KCGTODAD
  • 169 Answers

SOURCE: 2002 Odyssey. Clunking noise from frontend

Hello! When you had the struts replaced, were the strut mounts also replaced? If not, these are often the source of creaking, or clunking noises. However - this could also be from worn or loose sway bar bushings, or outer tie rod connections. All of these can be surmised by a mechanic within a matter of minutes.

I hope this helps, and thanks for using FixYa!

Posted on Sep 26, 2009

  • 921 Answers

SOURCE: clunking going over bumps

shocks my be going bad push up and down hard on top of the car over each front wheel and let go..it should not bounce up and down more than once. if it does shocks are bad.

Posted on Apr 08, 2010

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Hello! When you had the struts replaced, were the strut mounts also replaced? If not, these are often the source of creaking, or clunking noises. However - this could also be from worn or loose sway bar bushings, or outer tie rod connections. All of these can be surmised by a mechanic within a matter of minutes.

I hope this helps, and thanks for using FixYa!

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