Do I have to sepparate upper ball joint from knucle in order to remove cv axel.I am hoping all I have to do is unbolt captive flange at differential end . This I think will alow me to remove the splined end from hub and axel assembly from truck. I am attempting this job at home and have limited tools. Truck is a 1998 GMC Sierra k3500
An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert who has answered 20 questions.
An expert that has over 10 points.
An expert whose answer got voted for 2 times.
Re: cracked boot on front cv axel shaft
you could try using a Quick boot, just cut the old one off with a trimming knife no stripping required,just wrap the quick boot around and use the weld adhesive fit new clips and the jobs done
a 6ya Mechanic can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Mechanic (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
remove the axle nut first, always took the upper ball joint loose just take the nut off apply some upwards pressure and hit spindle with hammer and it will allow you to move the hub and all out enough to remove axle. the upper ball joint nut has to come off and seperate the
ball joint from the steering knuckle then plenty of room. good-day ! then just slide axel out,or pry between axel and ****** to pop it loose, it has a locking clip on transmission side. when putting back in make sure axel is locked in ******. and do not forget to torque axel nut when done.
Jack up car and apply e-brake. car will roll if one of the front tires leaves the ground. remove tire , spindal nut and lower ball joint bolts. remove axle from hub then use a prybar to pop it out of trans. the passenger side will have a braket holding axle to engine , remove bolts from braket or squeeze snap-ring to rmove axle from braket.
take a good hard look at the front cv-axle there is a rubber boot that has grease in it if its cracked you will have grease leaking from it more common the grease will end up on the inside of the rim and wheel well. if that boot is not cracked then the ball joint was filled with to much grease and the old grease was forced out most of the time it tears the rubber boot that protects and keeps the grease in, now you can wipe off the grease and it should be fine for a few years or so.
To replace the outer boot on this shaft you have to first remove the inner joint from the shaft, then remove the outer joint boot from the shaft and joint by sliding it back down the shaft. Do not remove the outer CV joint from the shaft. I believe you have to replace the entire axle shaft if it is removed as it's not made to be removed and reinstalled. I would actually suggest replacement of the entire shaft instead of just the boot anyway unless you were lucky enough to catch a leaking boot as soon as the boot went bad as it takes such a very small amount of road grit to start the damage that will eventuall wear out the joint and then you have to take the axle out again. [just my opinion as over the years I've seen dozens of bad boots cause joints to fail a short time later] Hope this helps out a bit and good luck!
If you are refering to those corrugated rubber boots, it is highly recommended to replace those CV shafts as the dirt and moisture contamination is not a good thing in CV joints. Dirt and moisture are the leading causes of CV shaft failures. You can by the boots as a repair boot and those wrap around the CV shaft/joint area and bolt together. If you are talking about the little rubber boots on the ball jonts themselves at the end of a steering link, those boots are not sold individually. They only come with new Ball joint assemblies.
the upper or lower ball joint is bolted into lower control arm or upper control arm
to remove from knuckle possibly has split pin to remove first before undoing nut. leave nut on ball joint (finger loose) but so you cant see any thread from shaft and use ball joint splitter to seperate or hit side of knucle with ball peine hammer to jolt tapper shaft of ball joint loose from knucle(dont hit to of ball joint shaft)then to remove nut you have to lift top arm & or knuckle to get between driveshaft
If you remove the 6x 12mm bolts from the diff to remove the shaft, then remove the IFfitted free wheeling hub 6 cap screws, C clip, take wieght of 4x4 onn the lower con trol arm and remove the 4 12 bolts that hold the top ball joint the shaft will now come out.
at the diff end of shaft is a cap aprox 60-70mm diam, remove it best way is to gently slide the shaft in to the joint and it will pop the cap out. remove the C clip on the shaft, loosen the bands on the boot tap shaft off the joint remove the boot.
remove the bands on the outer joint , remove the boot or whats left of it. wipe out the old grease, repack with the special grease supplied with the boot kit try and get down in the joint swivel it at the same time.fit the new boot and bands.
revese order to finnish off. When doing the inner boot slide the CV joint in the middle of the travel then tighten the bands if you dont do this you can pop the boot as the pressure builds up as the shaft goes in...if the inner boot is ok have a good look replace the grease as well OEM boots ar the best aftermarket ones dont last long, in Australia that is.
tighten the 6 bolts on the diff realy tight pref use lock tight they can work loose.
you can do this in about 1.5 hours.......any problems let me know.done this heaps of time......