Question about 2002 GMC Sierra 1500
Jack up the rear and support it by the frame
-remove the rear wheels.,
-disconnect the brake line from the brake hose near the center of the differential.
-remove the drive shaft from the differential.
-unplug/remove any ABS harnesses fron the differential
-support the axle and remove the shocks and u-bolts.
-remove the axle from the vehicle.
-transfer parts to new axle
-bleed the brakes
let me know if you have any questions and I'll be happy to answer them.
Posted on Feb 23, 2012
Jack it up ,pull the wheel on the bad axle side,remove the diff. cover,
remove the small pin holding the large pin in,slide the big pin out ,push the axle in from the wheel end,remove the c-clip in the axle and slide it out.
Would be wise to change the seal at the end af the axle tube at the same time. Slide the new axle in ,put the c-clip in the axle ,push it back in the carrier and reinstall the large pin and keeper pin,"Right Stuff" sealer makes a good cover gasket,3/8 drive for the fill plug,some gear iol and you're done,,not a bad job,no special tools required.
Posted on Feb 23, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 1990 GMC Sierra 4x4 1500
the connections near the front axle that activate the motor to engage the system aren't melted? That's a comon problem for that body style. If there good, sounds like it could be that motor itself. To figure out if it's you motor or transfercase, jack up the rear end, have a friend inside shift into 4 wheel drive, or try to, and put it in gear and apply some gas. If the front driveshaft is turning then it's something with the front end. If not, farther back in the system.
Posted on Sep 22, 2008
SOURCE: 2002 GMC Sierra 1500 rear brakes
Hi joelalthomas, if they replaced your brakes and you never even made it home they had better warranty the work and as for the "it was a common problem on 2002-2004 trucks" well check for Chevy recalls as this is a safety issue that would have been corrected at no expense to the vehicle owner, do a little more research my friend and let me know what happens, I will check around a little as well in the meantime I would find a new garage.Do not pay any more as you said your brakes worked fine until they worked on it good luck to you As for your 4x4 did you look at the left side when you did the right side? and were they bled off properly? you can visually check to see if the calipers are functioning
Posted on Nov 11, 2008
-Remove tire and brake drum
-put drain pan under axle housing
-remove rear axle housing cover (10 or 12 bolts)
-turn gear untiil the bolt for cross shaft shows and remov e the bolt
-remove the cross shaft.
-push axle in until you can remove "U" clip from axle and axle will pull out,
Remove seal, you need a pulller to remove axle brg.
Posted on Jul 26, 2009
remove cover.take off back wheels and calipers (or drums).turn differential to where you see small bolt/pin (5/16) horizontally (same direction as axles)on right side of differential.remove bolt/pin.A large pin (about 5"long 3/4"diameter) should slide out differential with ease ( you may have to tap one side of the large pin).turn differential to completely remove large pin.turn differential so you can see in the view window.push each axles in (they'll go in about 1 1/2"each) You may hear one of the axle C-clips fall.If not use a small telescoping magnet to remove the C-clips from the axles through the differential window.pull each axle out about 10"so they are out of the diff.Now remove the cap bolts(4-5/8"bolts) and remove the caps(mark the caps so they go in excactly the way they came out.be careful the diff might fall out.If not you may have to use a long bar or 2x4 to wedge and pry the differential out. Have a basket/crate w/rags in it to catch the diff.TIP:If you are removing the ring gear from the diff, the bolts are left handed bolts meaning you have to turn them clockwise to loosen and counter clockwise to tighten ; )
Posted on Sep 15, 2009
Testimonial: "thank you helped ALOT perfect instructions "
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