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Install 2 round rubber rear main seals in a M38A1 Jeep engine

How to install 2 rubber rear main seals in a M38A1 Jeep engine without damage.

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  • 272 Answers

SOURCE: cost to replace rear main seals on 2001 jeep gr. cher. ltd.

Actually yeah you are in luck that combination only requires dropping the oil pan. The seal is actually fairly easy to do it yourself, if your inclined. Parts about $20.00 and it's book rate is 5 hours. around here shops charge around $85/hour. About $500.00 out the door or under $50.00 if you want to get greasy. Here's a good picture guided step by step on a Jeep CJ with a 4.0 liter, yours is pretty much the same:

http://jeepin.com/features/rearmain/index.asp

Posted on May 23, 2009

  • 18 Answers

SOURCE: rear main seal replacement for

Wrong. just remove the oil pan, exhaust downpipe and O2 sensor, and starter. take off the crank bearing brace and finally remove the rear main bearing cap. half the seal will be in the cap and half you push out from around the crank with a small brass punch so as not to damage the crank pull out with needle nose pliers and slide the new one in ( noting that oil should go on the mating surface of the crank and liquid dish soap on the outside of the upper seal). rtv the lower seals wings (top and bottom) and reinstall. rear main cap 80ft.lbs i believe, 35ft.lbs for the bearing brace. or just follow this tutorial with pics http://dailydriventj.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=811

Posted on Jul 14, 2009

cmcduncand
  • 714 Answers

SOURCE: Rear engine oil leak....

Oil leak can be attributed to several factors.
1. Gasket failure.
2. Uncontrolled Crank case pressure Failure.

RECOMENDATION:
Tighten both the valve cover and oil pan bolts.
Replace the Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve and vacuum line.,

INFO: PCV
This is a valve causes a negative vacuum on the engine while its running, As to say if it had a leak in a valve cover it should not be leaking while its running, only when the engine it turned off.

Hope this tip guides you in the correct direction to solve this problem.

R/
David

Posted on Mar 15, 2010

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I have a 93 grand Jeep Cherokee Laradeo ,to change the oil pan seal , and or the oil filter housing to change the O rings , or the timing cover seal or the rear seal , dose one need too lift up or pull...


The oil filter housing and the timing cover can all be worked on with engine in car.
For the rear engine seal (rear main seal), the transfer case and transmission will have to be removed to access the seal.
Most of the time, the oil pan can be removed without raising the engine. Check your clearance under there for anything obstructing removal. (I loaned out my Jeep manual and never got it back!) On some cars, engine needs to be raised about 4 inches for pan to clear the oil pickup tube. Don't know about your Jeep.

Nov 07, 2011 | 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

How to repair front crankshaft seal leaks oil


Need to get at the crankshaft seal, usually by removing the crankshaft pulley and using a seal remover to take out the old seal, then put a new seal in.

Here are some instructions on how to do the 'rear' seal:
Rear Main Seal Removal & Installation 2.4L, 3.3L & 3.8L Engines To Remove:
  1. Remove the transaxle and flexplate. CAUTION
    Make sure not to damage the crankshaft sealing surface when removing the oil seal.
  2. Insert a flat-bladed pry tool or equivalent through the dust lip at an angle.
  3. Carefully pry the oil seal out of the engine. Pry against the chamfered edge of the crankshaft, do not damage the sealing surface of the crankshaft or an oil leak may occur.
To Install:
CAUTION
Smooth any burr or rough edge on the crankshaft with 400 grit sandpaper to prevent seal damage during installation.
NOTE: When installing seal, no lube on seal is needed.
  1. Place special tool 6926-1 seal guide or equivalent on crankshaft.
  2. Place the seal on the guide. Make sure the seal lip is facing the crankshaft and the guide tool remains on the crankshaft. Rear crankshaft seal installation (2.4L engine shown, 3.3L & 3.8L engines similar) chry-03-24-827.gif

    CAUTION
    Do not drive the seal into the block past flush. An oil leak may occur.
  3. Drive the seal into the block using a seal driver or special tool 6926-2 and handle C-4171 until the tool bottoms out against the block and the seal is flush.
  4. Install the flexplate and transaxle.
3.0L Engine To Remove:
  1. Remove the transaxle and flexplate. CAUTION
    Make sure not to damage the crankshaft sealing surface when removing the oil seal.
  2. Remove the oil seal with housing from the rear of the engine block.
  3. Remove the oil seal from the housing.
To Install:
  1. Clean the sealing surfaces on the seal housing and engine block.
  2. Use a commercial seal installer to install the seal in the seal housing.
  3. Apply a light film of motor oil to the seal lip.
  4. Apply silicone sealant to the oil seal housing sealing surface and install the housing with seal on the engine block. Tighten all bolts to 104 in. lbs. (12 Nm).
  5. Install the flexplate and transmission.
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Dec 31, 2010 | 1997 Plymouth Voyager

1 Answer

Rear barring an seal replaced


I'm not sure if this is the right part of your car but, are you talking about the rear seal on the engine for the crankshaft?

If so:

Rear Main Oil Seal REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: Rear main seal installation for the 2.3L and 2.5L engines 85553306.gif
Fig. 2: Removing the rear main seal 85553307.gif
Fig. 3: Installing the rear main seal on the 2.9L engines 85553308.gif
If the crankshaft rear oil seal replacement is the only operation being performed, it can be done in the vehicle as detailed in the following procedure. If the oil seal is being replaced in conjunction with a rear main bearing replacement, the engine must be removed from the vehicle and installed on a work stand.
  1. Remove the starter.
  2. Remove the transmission from the vehicle, following the procedures in Section 7.
  3. On a manual shift transmission, remove the pressure plate and cover assembly and the clutch disc following the procedure in Section 7.
  4. Remove the flywheel attaching bolts and remove the flywheel and engine rear cover plate.
  5. Use an awl to punch two holes in the crankshaft rear oil seal. Punch the holes on opposite sides of the crankshaft and just above the bearing cap to cylinder block split line. Install a sheet metal screw in each hole. Use two large screwdrivers or small pry bars and pry against both screws at the same time to remove the crankshaft rear oil seal. It may be necessary to place small blocks of wood against the cylinder block to provide a fulcrum point for the pry bars. Use caution throughout this procedure to avoid scratching or otherwise damaging the crankshaft oil seal surface. To install:
  6. Clean the oil seal recess in the cylinder block and main bearing cap.
  7. Clean, inspect and polish the rear oil seal rubbing surface on the crankshaft. Coat a new oil seal and the crankshaft with a light film of engine oil. Start the seal in the recess with the seal lip facing forward and install it with a seal driver. Keep the tool, T82L-6701-A (4-cyl. engines) or T72C-6165 (6-cyl. engine) straight with the centerline of the crankshaft and install the seal until the tool contacts the cylinder block surface. Remove the tool and inspect the seal to be sure it was not damaged during installation.
  8. Install the engine rear cover plate. Position the flywheel on the crankshaft flange. Coat the threads of the flywheel attaching bolts with oil-resistant sealer and install the bolts. Tighten the bolts in sequence across from each other to the specifications listed in the torque chart in this section.
  9. On a manual shift transmission, install the clutch disc and the pressure plate assembly following the procedure in Section 7.
  10. Install the transmission, following the procedure in Section 7.
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Oct 07, 2010 | 1994 Ford Explorer Limited

1 Answer

How hard is it to replace the rear maine oil seal on a 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.2 liter V8 4 wheel drive


There is some work involve in replacing rear main seal, seal sit in the rear of the engine block, the transmission will have to be remove, and the fly wheel to get to the rear main seal.If you have never removed a engine or transmission, it might be best to pay and have some one do it for you.

Sep 08, 2010 | 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

I have a 2006 Pontiac Grand Prix, it is supercharged 3800. I have about 115,000 miles on it and I change the oil every 3,000 miles, check fluids, regular preventative maintenance, etc. I noticed a small...


If it's oil, it's coming from the rear main seal.. I would go with this idea.

The seal doesn't cost much but the labor to get to it does.

To give you an idea what is involved the procedure is illustrated below from the service manual:

Removal & Installation 3.8L Engine To Remove:
  1. Drain the engine coolant.
  2. Drain the engine oil.
  3. Remove the oil pan.
  4. Remove the engine flywheel.
  5. Remove the rear oil seal housing and gasket. Rear seal removal 3.8L gm-03-38-1175.gif

  6. Remove the rear main seal by placing the housing face down on 2 blocks of wood. Using a drift tool and hammer tap the seal out of the housing.
To Install:
NOTE: Do not lubricate the rear main oil seal or the installation tool. Do not touch the sealing lip of the rear main seal once the protective sleeve is removed.
NOTE: Use a clean lint free cloth to clean the crankshaft sealing surface. Remove sharp edges or burrs that could damage the rear main oil seal. Remove burrs or sharp edges with a crocus cloth.
  1. Carefully remove the rear oil seal from the protective sleeve.
  2. Install the oil seal onto the seal driver EN-47623 or equivalent by placing the seal at an angle and twisting until it is fully seated.
  3. Install the seal into the housing using the seal driver EN-47623 or equivalent and driver handle J-8092 or equivalent. Apply downward force until the seal is seated. NOTE: Ensure that the housing gasket is installed correctly and that the oil passages are not blocked.
  4. Using a new gasket Install the rear oil seal housing on the engine being careful not damage the rear main seal. NOTE: The plastic inserts are used in production and are not needed for assembly.
  5. Hand tighten the bolts. Rear seal housing alignment 3.8L gm-03-38-1176.gif

  6. Place a straight edge on the crankshaft rear oil seal housing flange and the engine block oil pan flange. Using a feeler gauge check that there is no more than .0004 in (0.10 mm) step on each side. Rotate the housing to make the steps equal on both sides.
  7. Tighten the housing bolts 11 ft-lb (15 Nm) plus an additional 50 degrees.
  8. Ensure that the housing did not move out of specification. Repeat step 6 if the oil seal housing is not within the specified range. Replace the rear oil seal housing if the specified measurement can not be reached.
  9. Install the flywheel.
  10. Install the oil pan.
  11. Fill the engine oil and the cooling system.
  12. Check for leaks
5.3L Engine To Remove:
  1. Remove the flywheel from the crankshaft.
  2. Remove and discard the crankshaft rear oil seal from the rear cover.
To Install:
  1. Use clean engine oil to lubricate the outside diameter of the crankshaft rear oil seal and rear cover oil seal bore.
  2. Install the tapered cone and bolts of a J 41479 or equivalent crankshaft rear oil seal installer onto the crankshaft.
  3. Place the crankshaft rear oil seal onto the tapered cone.
  4. Install the threaded rod of the J 41479 crankshaft rear oil seal installer into the tapered cone. Rear main seal installer 5.3L gm-03-53-3872.gif

  5. Install the crankshaft rear oil seal by turning the handle of the J 41479 clockwise.
  6. Remove the J 41479 crankshaft rear oil seal installer from the crankshaft.
  7. Install the flywheel onto the crankshaft.
prev.gif next.gif--- I'm not sure what the exact cost would be as the hours were not listed for this procedure on my online resource.

Sep 02, 2010 | 2006 Pontiac Grand Prix

2 Answers

Need to find a way to put in a rear main seal in my 1989 jeep cherokee 4.0 without pulling the transmission


The Rear main seal on a Cherokee with the 4.0L is a 2-piece seal and the transmission doesn't have to be pulled. You have to remove the oil pan and rear main cap. That's it. The transmission doesn't have to be removed. Hope this helps.

Best of luck

Jun 18, 2010 | 1989 Jeep Cherokee

1 Answer

How do i take out a rear main seal?


Remove the transmission, after holding the rear of the engine supported, using a jack with a piece of wood between it and the engine. Remove the clutch and pressure plate, and the flywheel or if automatic, the flex plate. The rear main seal retainer will then be exposed. Remove the 2 oil pan to main seal retainer assembly, and the bolts circling the retainer, and slide the retainer assembly unit back off the crankshaft. Remove the old gasket from the retainer, and clean the gasket ridge before installing a new gasket. It's a one piece hard rubber gasket, which must be inserted in the retainer evenly. This can be done on a work bench, or flat wood on a concrete floor, Some light oil might help it seat easier, Once seated slide the retainer containing the new gasket back over the rear of the crankshaft, A rubber hammer will help ease it back into position, Replace all bolts, not forgetting the oil pan to retainer bolts, and reinstall all parts in reverse order of removal. If a manual trans, this would be an excellent time to install a new clutch kit.

Jan 11, 2010 | 1989 Mazda B-Series

1 Answer

Oil leak from rear main seal 92 jeep cheeroke


remove transmission, remove flywheel, pry old seal out with seal remove or a screwdriver careful not to damage the block or crank. Clean surface with carberater cleaner or brake cleaner. Tap ne seal in with flat end of ball ping hammer. Put transmission back in.

Jan 05, 2010 | 1992 Jeep Cherokee Sport

1 Answer

Need details for final steps of rear main seal installation..Lubing the seal with oil, silicone application, allowing to dry or not, etc. Friend installed without either of the above mentioned items with...


This may not be the "official" way to do this but I've always put white lube on the crank journal where the seal rides. I also put a dab of black rtv sealant on the ends of the seal (small amount only) If you don't put lube on the seal it can overheat and burn before lube from the engine gets to it. Silicone dab will join the two deal halves to prevent any seepage there. Don't permit silicone to dry before assembly.
Been doing it this way for years and never had a leak.
I never replace the seal without removing the crankshaft either...Most replacements done that way are at best a 50/50 bet at working.

Nov 03, 2009 | 1988 Jeep Wrangler

1 Answer

Crank shaft movement


did you check the pulley on the crank shaft ??
is it warped ?? ( bent )
because i do not think that the truck will run with the crankshaft moving.....back and forth.
so in any case you have a lot of work to do.
here is how to remove the crank shaft.
REMOVAL
  1. Remove the oil pan.
  2. Remove the oil pump from the rear main bearing cap.
  3. Remove the vibration damper.
  4. Remove the timing chain cover.
  5. Identify bearing caps before removal. Remove bearing caps and bearings one at a time.
  6. Lift the crankshaft out of the block.
  7. Remove and discard the crankshaft rear oil seals.
  8. Remove and discard the front crankshaft oil seal.
INSTALLATION
  1. Lightly oil the new upper seal lips with engine oil.
  2. Install the new upper rear bearing oil seal with the white paint facing towards the rear of the engine.
  3. Position the crankshaft into the cylinder block.
  4. Lightly oil the new lower seal lips with engine oil.
  5. Install the new lower rear bearing oil seal into the bearing cap with the white paint facing towards the rear of the engine.
    1. Apply 5 mm (0.20 inch) drop of Loctite 518, or equivalent, on each side of the rear main bearing cap. DO NOT over apply sealant or allow the sealant to contact the rubber seal. Assemble bearing cap to cylinder block immediately after sealant application.
    2. lb align the bearing cap, use cap slot, alignment dowel and cap bolts. DO NOT remove excess material after assembly. DO NOT strike rear cap more than 2 times for proper engagement.
    3. Clean and oil all cap bolts. Install all main bearing caps. Install all cap bolts and alternately tighten to 115 Nm (85 ft. lbs.) torque.
    4. Install oil pump.
    5. Install the timing chain cover.
    6. Install the vibration damper.
      1. Apply Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant, or equivalent, at bearing cap to block joint to provide cap to block and oil pan sealing. Apply enough sealant until a small amount is squeezed out. Withdraw nozzle and wipe excess sealant off the oil pan seal groove.
      2. Install new front crankshaft oil seal.
      3. Immediately install the oil Dan.
if you have an email address i can send some images

Jun 07, 2008 | 1998 Dodge Dakota

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