- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Are you able to bleed the brake from the caliper you changed? If you can you may have a plugged bleeder at the master cylinder or the new one did not get drilled all the way through so the fluid comes out. Does the truck have ABS brakes? I am assuming so but not sure, if so you may have to reposition the valve in the line that cuts off the leak and shifts the fluid to the rear wheels in this case, it is in the lines, but at that I would think you still should be able to bleed the master cylinder. You may need to bleed all of the wheels before you can bleed the master.
Fill master remove bleeder have somebody rapidly pump brake pedal while you hold your finger over the hole. within ten pumps (usually) fluid should come out.By holding your finger over the hole you will feel air pressure let that pass Then do your manual bleed.If still nothing check the rubber line sometime they get messed up inside and fluid will not go through
Are there two brake fluid reservoirs? And are both full? This would be a split-diagonal brake system-front driver and rear passenger are one brake system. Front passenger and rear driver are the other system. You have the one system working-the front passenger and rear driver side works. You will have to keep bleeding the rear passenger side and the front driver side-always start farthest from the master cylinder, but if that wheel just won't bleed air out, make sure the driver front is working and bleeds good. If all else fails, there are pressure bleeder kits available, I don't know the cost, but they work great. They are also a one man bleeding job, as I understand.
All four brakes must be bled to eliminate the trapped air...probably not anything else...try lubricating the bleeder fitting with PB Blaster before trying to open...be cautious as this valve can break off, and that means rebuild the caliper drill out broken fitting...or replace caliper...either way all 4 brakes must be bled...start with the rear farthest away from the master cylinder then other rear...then right front, then last is left front...Hope this helps.
Gravity bleed caliper, just open valve and have a coffee break and close it. Did you buy a loaded caliper with new pads on it? Check the rear wheel cylinders they may be the cause of your mushy pedal. They are cheap too.