Question about Cars & Trucks
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
First, no coolant flows through the intake on the 3.0L in the L300 and Catera. The intake is a 5 piece setup, the base of which is a phenolic spacer to isolate heat from the intake manifold.
Beneath the phenolic spacer there is an oil cooler installed between the cylinders inside the block. There is a cover with 2 oil cooler lines that run up from the right side of the engine to the cover and into the cooler via an inlet and outlet banjo bolt. If the cooler wears out there will be an exchange of coolant and oil, more oil into the coolant than coolant into the oil, although there will be some.
You might notice a small drop in performance, and later will notice that the coolant reservoir is full of oil and is spilling over.
I'd start by checking cylinder compression to make sure you don't ALSO have a blown head gasket, but the cooler is quite notorious for blowing out. If you do decide to replace it you will need:
1: a new oil cooler
2: new gaskets for the steel cooler lines, they will be metal crush gaskets. 4 as they are for the banjo bolts (2 washers for each bolt, one bolt on each line)
3: 4 new gaskets for the coolant bridge (the almost crescent shape aluminum bridge next to the oil cooler cover, aluminum with hoses attached as well as the coolant temp sensor)
4: New gaskets for the banjo bolts on the coolant bridge, they're rubber but don't just use some junk! Get the real deal ones from the dealer and save yourself the trouble of redoing it later on. They're cheap.
5: Oil, Antifreeze and a new oil filter. I'd spring for the Coolant system cleaner if it's not a big deal, less oil in the cooling system makes for a better performing engine and better heat in the winter.
Tools: 3/8" ratchet, standard set of extensions for the ratchet, set of Torx sockets and inverted Torx sockets, set of 3/8" sockets, flat head screwdriver, dikes or side cutters.
1: take off the intake manifold clamps by prying where they latch together, don't damage them unless you plan on replacing them (your call, but a tech would reuse them)
2: take off all the Torx bolts for the manifolds, there's 4 pieces to the aluminum manifolds and the ECM and Vacuum reservoir have to come off the rear manifold to get to some of the bolts. NOTE the location of all vacuum lines and coolant lines so you don't forget them later. Also note the position of the ECM on the manifold so you don't have to figure out which way it goes on later, it only plugs in one way but it's a pain if you fumble it up.
3: Take out the phenolic spacer (black thing under all the manifolds, feels like plastic). There are rubber gaskets on these, if they're damaged then it's a good time to replace them, if not they are usually reusable. Napa, Advance Auto, Auto Zone, etc. always have them. Just ask for intake manifold gaskets, even though they're really phenolic spacer gaskets.
4: Remove the banjo bolts for the oil cooler lines, note the placement of gaskets on each side of the line that the banjo bolt goes through. You'll want to remember that later to avoid a leak. Also remove the coolant bridge banjo bolts and move it out of the way, again noting the gaskets for later replacement.
5: loosen the 2 nuts where the oil cooler lines were, these are attached to the oil cooler and secure it to the cover.
6: Remove the Torx bolts for the cooler cover, lift the cover, and remove the cooler. Make sure you clean that galley out real well, saves you some headache when cleaning later on.
7: When reinstalling the oil cooler cover remember to use a 2mm bead of sealant around there. I've seen guys use Permatex Orange, but if you can swing it then get something better from the dealership. You don't want to do this again in a year if the Permatex leaks on you.
8: Reinstall coolant bridge, oil cooler lines, phenolic spacer, manifold(s) and clamps. Double check all your work! Change your oil, and flush out the cooling system.
Estimated time? For a tech.. probably 2 hours. For a Shadetree mechanic? Probably 4 to 5 hours.
Posted on Oct 08, 2009
I hate to rub salt in your wounds but after all your effort the time spent you could have the engine back in by now.
All the tin ware needs to be lifted well clear as you know the oil cooler is upright in the path of the Rotor/fan, this also needs to be raised well clear as the cooler needs to be taken off completely, you will want to clean surfaces and internals won't you?
So all shrouds to bodywork off,(Engine bay) throttle cable disconnected, clutch cable disconnected your generator wires off and finally fuel pipe. 4 bolts on gearbox bell housing and slide engine out or down for clearance on trolley jack.
All the above relates to a TypeII Split or bay window with stock engine, Not suitcase or injection.
Please remember to appraise my FREE efforts by pressing the Blue button? Thank You!
Paul 'W' U.K.
Posted on Jan 30, 2009
Steve, You can find information at several web sites. One is All Data but they will charge you for each individual vehicle but Auto Zone will provide most vehicles for free.
Posted on Feb 12, 2009
There was a recall from ford on those engines. Usually when the oil cooler went out, it put coolant in the oil and it trashed the engine. I would say it would take between 6-12 hours to replace one
Posted on Oct 15, 2009
there are 3 mounting brackets, go look at some of these on ebay so you will know where they are. one bolt will have to be accessed from underneath. on replacement units you will find it is a two parter, making replacement of that lower bolt much easier. if you put an OEM replacement in there, prepare to pull out the fender liner to get at the lower bolt.
Posted on Feb 21, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
May 15, 2016 | 2006 Chevrolet Impala
Oct 20, 2015 | Saturn Cars & Trucks
Dec 22, 2014 | 2001 Cadillac Catera
Oct 24, 2014 | Cars & Trucks
Oct 08, 2012 | Saturn L300 Cars & Trucks
Apr 15, 2012 | Beijing BJ Cars & Trucks
Dec 04, 2010 | 2004 Saturn L-Series
Oct 03, 2009 | 1997 Saturn SL
Jul 25, 2009 | Saturn L300 Cars & Trucks
Jun 27, 2008 | 1999 Saturn SL
Oct 23, 2017 | Ford Cars & Trucks
189 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!