Question: Is fitting leaking at the compressor or at the rubber hose end.
If leaking at the compressor hard line fitting. Try replacing "o"ring. If leaking at the rubber hose end. Remove line and take to a HVAC shop that can replace "barrier hose (rubber hose using your fittings)
Any repair will require discharging the system.
I have a 94 tracker with hoses leaking. I would recommend replacing the rubber hose sections on both suction and liquid lines at the same time. You will have to discharge the system for either repair. I would also recommend replacing all "o" rings accessible at this time along with a receiver dryer.
I work in the Auto parts sales for a large after market parts supply company and have found that hoses are not available from anybody, including a dealer for my 94 tracker. The system is very expensive to repair if you can find parts.
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There is a lot to doing the job correctly, but sometimes with luck you can get acceptable results with minimum expense and effort. It all depends on how much Freon is left in the system. The repair for a system with remaining Freon in it is a different repair job from a system that is empty. The Freon pressure keeps worse things from happening. You will find a fitting to add Freon on the accumulator(black oblong tank) or on a line close to that part. With the engine running and A/C engaged; you need to check the Freon pressure with a gauge. If the A/C compressor is not kicking in, the connector on the low pressure switch needs to be disconnected and jumped with a looped wire. Add Freon if you have low pressure. Note the pressure because the low pressure switch has a rated working pressure and weak pressure switches can cut out early. Fill the Freon to a moderate working level. You want the A/C to stay working longer which it will do when it is charged between the high and low pressure limits. But if you find that there is zero pressure in the system, at a minimum you need to rent or borrow a Vacuum pump and evacuate the system. Then add Freon with a sealer and a small oil charge. Operate the system and drive 20 minutes minimum to circulate the sealant. Check pressure after 24 hours and top off the Freon charge. If the leak did not seal, you will need professional help and tools to replace the leaking part. There are leak detectors, but some of the fittings require special tools to change.
Hello, This usually happens when the Freon is low or if someone has added Freon, the level is too high. You need to use a gauge on the low-pressure fitting to determine the minimum pressure in the system with the A/C on and the engine running.
The low pressure fitting is usually on the black oblong tank or close to it. There is a connector on the A/C line from the black oblong tank where it looks like a switch attached to the line. There are 2 switches, but the low pressure side is closest to the black tank. Remove the connector and make a "U" shaped wire connector to insert in the wire. This will jump the switch and activate the compressor clutch. Then the system is ready to draw in the Freon and after the first can, should be ready to work without the jumper wire. Reconnect the wire to the low pressure switch and measure the pressure with a gauge. Then top off the system. There should be a label in the front of your van with the capacity of the A/C.
It is best to initially purge the system with a Vacuum pump, but most top-offs will last at least a Season if you have no leaks. You can get tools under the loaner programs at Autozone, Advance, and Oreillys. There are also products which can stop leaks, trace leaks, and if your compressor is noisy, add oil to the system. Ask your parts counterperson about them.
If you find the the system has proper Freon, but cuts out, the Low pressure switch is easy to change and is what you change if you find through bypassing this part, that the system works better.
If you do not want to go through all of this, jump the Low pressure switch, add a leak repair additive, add some Freon until the compressor engages steady.
You need to check the freon level and if that is good check the compressor. If you have no pressure on the low side, when I say pressure on low side I mean vacuum, then most likely the compressor is bad or you have a leak someplace. You can get a freon fill kit at Walmart, Target, Auto Zone and most any auto parts stores. These kits comes with a gauge and connection hose. Typically if the freon is low the compressor won't activate. Connect the fill hose to the low Side of your AC and turn the AC on to Maximum with the engine running. If its a low freon problem the compressor will start to kick in as the pressure increases. Make sure you don't overfill the system as this will cause a seal or line to blow. Being a 1998 your vehicle should use R134A freon which is what can legally be purchased by a home mechanic. It cost about $12 to $20 a can and usually includes a leak detector additive and seal conditioner.
line that goes to compressor is low side line out of compressor is high side
always fill on low side
also r12 hase been band for sevral years and should not be used
if this freon is r-12 conpatible or replacment then your fine
after leak been repaired and system pressurized and vacumed out
start engine put a/c to max blower motor to hi open windows
conect your fill bottle to low side open valve and system will start filling
when freon reach enougt pressure the compressor should start and draw in
the freon if it fails to start you could jump the low pressure swich to help draw in
freon when system has drawned its capacity shut off your bottle and disconect your line to fill
cap off the valve
if compressor fail to start you have another issus could be electrical
take CAUTION doing repairs to a/c system
All vehicles will leak a miniscule amount of freon from the seals throughout the coolant lines, you can use a leak detector additive when adding freon or use a freon gas leak detector to find any substantial leaks in the system by guiding the probe around all the components while the vehicle and ac are running. You could use a heldheld freon charger with a built in pressure guage provided you have the correct fittings, otherwise I'd recommend having both your low/high pressure sides monitored while adding freon and making sure your compressor is turning on and off properly as the high pressure side reaches its peak.
You can pick up a can of recharge at your local auto parts store. Some states do not allow for the sale of this so don't be surprised if you find this is the case.
There are many options but the one you want has NO stop leak in it and will have a hose with a fitting already attached. Sometimes there will aslo be a gauge. The fitting will only fit on the low side fitting of the car. This fitting will be on the low pressure line which is the larger diameter of the to lines. I apologize for not knowing exactly where the fitting is.
With the car running attache the can of refrigerant to the low side fitting and open the valve on the can. Eventually the A/C compressor should start to click on and off. It will take a while for the can to empty once the compressor starts to work. You can tell when it is by shaking the can. You will feel the liquid moving around when it is full and no liquid moving when it is empty. When it is empty close the valve on the can and remove the recharge fitting from the low side fiting of the car. After the can is removed you can turn off the car. DO NOT TURN OFF THE CAR WITH THE CAN OF RECHARGE ATTACHED TO THE LOW SIDE FITTING!
Some Cadillacs require a scan tool to erase the low freon trouble code before the car will turn on the a/c compressor.
Ok if you want to do a home repair in hopes of saving yourself a lot of money and with hopes your system is not in major trouble, here goes:
First step buy 3 types of 1 lb. cans of refrigerant R134a at a parts store, 1 can of leak detector freon combination, and if possible 1 can freon/air conditioning oil combination freon along with 1 can of straight r134a freon.
The store will sell you a charge hose with a cheap type of charge gauge attachment and fittings to attach to your system for the re-charge.
Providing your system is low on freon,First, with the vehicle running and the a/c on full cold, high fan, install the 1 lb. can of freon/oil combo first only charging through the low pressure side of the system never through the thin line high pressure side as the pressure from the high side can enter the cgharging freon can and explode it like a bomb,(this low side line is the larger hose and the low side charging hose fitting the parts store sells you will only screw onto the low side charge valve which is normally marked "low" on the top of the plastic dust cap that is factory installed(hand screwed) on the low side valve fitting.
Secondly after the oil/combo can is emptied into the low side and you of course are wearing mechanics hand protection gloves and eye protection googles, then and only then will you install the leak dector 1 lb. freon can combo.
Third you will install the last 1 lb can of r134a freon, however your vehicle will not allow the whole last pound of freon into its system by means of a pressure relief blow valve that will automatically blow off any excess pressure once the system over fills, the system typically holds approximately 2.75 lbs. of freon.
If you have successfully installed the above freon into the system it should be up and running providing the system is in fairly good working order, by that I mean it may have a very slow leak that allowed the freon tio originally escape in the first place causing you to refill it, and if it does have a leak the leak detector die that you installed into the system should leak out from wherever it may be escaping from, indicating the place of needed repair by means of a red or blue, or whatever other designated coloration the die gives out from the leaking area.
Please note: Not all home charging techniques typically work as there are many mechanical failure factors in an a/c system that may require a certified a/c technician to determine exactly why your system is not working should the home remedy fail.
I hope this helps you and remember to always work safe with eye and hand protection especially around freon gases which become extremely cold and can cause frost bite when contacting with the bare skin.
The interuptions in compressor engagement is due to low side drops which is controlled by the pressure switch mounted on the low hose or large metal accumulator on the passenger side. Low side hoses are larger and the accumulator is on the passenger side engine compartment...a paper clip works fine jumping this low side pressure switch out until freon pressures increase enough to keep compressor running to accept freon.
U may be low in Freon gas. When Freon is low there's low pressure switch that will prevent A/C compressor clutch from engaging to protect it from failure. So, first check Freon pressure & any leaks form lines & hoses fittings. Even if the fan is working, that doesn’t indicate proper compressor OP'S. Look at the compressor front side you'll see the clutch stationary while the AFT pulley moving.
Then put air-condition compressor switch to ON (Engage), You should see the clutch engage & start rotate, If NOT, this is very clear indication u r low in Freon. Regards; MAR
2000 maxima is filled with R134, not freon. You don't need retro fit kit. Get couple of cans of R134 and pump it into the low side valve /small fiting, while A/C compressor is engaged. If your compressor is not coming on, jump the low side pressure switch to make the compressor come on and than the R134 will get sucked in to your system through the low side line. The proper way to do this is to put a/c system under vaccum for 15 minutes at least and watch for leak/gauges coming/loosing vaccum. Than pump R134 into the HIGH side valve with engine OFF.