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What size screws bolt on to the bottom of my front shocks

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 6982 Answers

SOURCE: How to remove the top bolts from the rear shocks

bolts should be easily removed after breaking them loose. If someone replaced them and used nuts on the backside, it may present a problem & require cutting the heads off. Sometimes you can snake a distributor wrench above to grab nut but on most jeeps this is difficult because there isn't enough clearance. Really soak them down with good solvent at least twice several hours before attempting to remove.

Posted on Mar 12, 2009

chuck943
  • 783 Answers

SOURCE: I need the rear shock torque specs for a 2007 sport trac

Torque Specifications Description Nm lb-ft lb-in Brake caliper bolt 32 24 — Brake disc shield bolt 8 — 71 Fuel tank filler pipe bracket bolt 15 11 — Fuel tank filler pipe hose clamps 3 — 27 Halfshaft nut and washer 275 203 — Lower arm inboard bolt 250 185 — Lower arm outboard bolt 275 203 — Parking brake cable bracket bolt 10 — 89 Shock absorber lower bolt 275 203 — Shock absorber rod nut 65 48 — Shock absorber upper mount nut 30 22 — Stabilizer bar bracket nut 48 35 — Stabilizer bar link nut and grommet 30 22 — Toe link cam adjuster nut 275 203 — Toe link outboard bolt 325 240 — Trailing arm bolt 300 222 — Upper arm outboard bolt 225 166 — Upper arm inboard nut 250 185 — Wheel speed sensor bolt 8 — 71 Wheel knuckle bolt 275 203 —

Posted on Mar 30, 2009

  • 234 Answers

SOURCE: change 2001 rodeo shocks

If you are replacing the shocks anyway, you may be able to snap a vice grip on the shaft so that it won't spin.

Sometimes you can use a pipe wrench too.

If the vehicle is supported on the frame, it will expose more of the shaft.

Posted on Apr 18, 2009

  • 96 Answers

SOURCE: I need to change my front and back shocks on my

If you call the dealer they may tell you the bolt size or they would get them for you. Probably wouldn't be too expensive and you would have the right size and grade.

Posted on Sep 17, 2009

dhorsefield
  • 270 Answers

SOURCE: trying to replace right front bearing hub and cv

If you have the jack in the correct location have you attempted to turn the front wheels to slightly adjust the angle of the hub relative to the shock and stabilizer bar?

Posted on Jul 25, 2010

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1 Answer

How to replace a Miele W820 shock absorber


A couple of things: I was looking for a baby guide to shock absorber replacements.... everywhere it is said that it is "easy".. but none of the descriptions of the work that I read were complete. So, this is my attempt.

First, our W820 has no bottom plate, so access is possible through the base, contrary to what has been written: BUT, you might not need it.. read below.

The steps are as follows:
1) Open the washer door. Turn off and disconnect the power.

2) Remove the top: To do this, take out the two plastic screw covers on the left and right of the top and undo the screw. (Crosshead). The top can be hinged backwards and then lifted off.

3) Inspect the drum. Push it up and down; if it bounces more to one side then that is probably the location of the faulty shock absorber. It is good practice to replace both shocks at the same time. However in our case a repair man fixed just one ! a year ago and the bouncing showed that the shock on the right was faulty.

3) Remove the washer front panel. You do this as follows:
a) Remove the soap drawer and put it to one side, pulling it forwards and depressing the red plastic lever visible towards the rear of the drawer. This allows it to be slid out.
b) Remove the three star-headed screws holding the soap drawer surround in place (I used Allen screw drivers for this.. not good I know).
c) Open the panel used for draining the machine (front panel, bottom left) and unhook the plastic drain pipe which clips into the door.
d) Remove three 10 mm bolts from the front panel. These are around where the wash door would normally close (I hope you left it open from step 1)
e) The front panel can now be hinged open (hinges on the right) and you should be able to see inside. Take the opportunity to clean up any visible mess.

4) Inspect the shock absorbers. The right hand shock is visible through the bottom right of the front of the machine. It is a metal cylinder about 6" long fixed at an angle. The left shock is visible but hard to access from the front.

5) In our case we only need to replace the shock on the right. You need a 13 mm ring spanner and you can do the removal entirely from the front... without even moving the machine. Undo the bolts at the top and bottom of the shock and pull it out. Inspect it for confirmation of fault. In our case there was NO resistance to movement at all. If it looks to be in good condition then it is probably the other shock causing the problem. In any case replace both.

6) The left-hand shock needs the machine put on its side for access through the base. Put down some cushioning material, blankets, heavy cardboard, etc to protect the sides and gently tip the machine. Ideally this is a two-person activity. If not, be careful! Again, with a 13 mm ring spanner unbolt and replace the faulty shock.

7) How tight should you bolt the shocks.. as tight as you can with one hand. The machine is robust.. but breakages can occur if the ring spanner slips and hits wiring or connectors, so ensure that the spanner is always fully home on the bolt head and wiring pushed out of the way. I protected my hand from spanner slippage by wearing a gardening glove for this part of the operation.

7) Now all we need is to reassemble:
a) First close the front panel and bolt it shut with the three bolts around the door. These take the strain and should be bolted first.
b) Then we put back the three screws holding the surround for the detergent drawer. Don't over tighten.. it just needs to be firm, not rigid.
c) Reattach the drain plug to the door of the access panel (bottom left) and close it.
d) Lastly, replace the top of the machine, attaching the rear of the top first and hinging downwards, and then use the two screws and plastic screw head covers to complete the job.

You should now have a working Miele with several more years left to run.
When we bought our first Miele (in Holland) it had an expected lifetime of 20 years according to the store. It survived for 20 years, surviving moves across 3 countries. We then tried Hotpoint.. total rubbish and it died after 3 years. We are now on our second Miele and it is around 17 years old and, with this repair, working perfectly. Perhaps one more will see us into (and out of) retirement. In the meantime, it is worthwhile keeping these excellent machines in good condition. They are not throw-away!


Jul 14, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I'm doing front shocks on 1993 ford E250 cargo van and I broke the bottom bolt. Can I brake it off the rest of the way and then drill the bracket through and put a thru bolt or will i have to have a stud...


You can drill it out use a bolt to make a shock mount stud, but make sure the bolt is the correct size for the shock eyelet and you use a lock nut and washers on both sides of the stud you install to replace the old stud, also the new bolt must be a grade 8, anything else will break off very quickly.

Dec 06, 2010 | 2004 Ford Econoline

1 Answer

2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab 4WD need to change Shocks/Struts? Is this a diy project?


It should be. To replace the front shocks, there are two bottom bolts to remove and one nut on the top of the shock. The rears have one top bolt and one bottom bolt. Just regular tools should be fine to do the job. I would also use some WD-40 to help loosen any rusty bolts.

Nov 07, 2010 | 1998 Dodge Ram 1500 4WD

1 Answer

Replacing front struts, how do u do it?


heres what you do rent a shock compressor from autozone compress shock take off bolt on top of shock watch fingers toes it will shoot down very very very very fast the take off lower bolt on shock then put new one on stick through shock tower top hole then mount bottom bolt after both bolts mounted then pull the cotter pin if you pull pin prior you will never get it mounted hope this helps

Sep 24, 2010 | 1998 Kia Sportage

1 Answer

Is there a recommended way to replace the drivers side front shock on a 1999 Dodge ram 4x4 diesel


For shock removal and replacement is fairly easy -- first remove the top shock nut and then the three nuts on the tower surronding the upper shock nut - then remove the bottom through bolt and pull shock up through the top -- install in reverse order - (don't worry about the shock expanding after you get the bottom bolt back in, you can push the top of the shock down with the tower and secure it). recommend you replace both front shocks

Dec 01, 2009 | 1999 Dodge Ram

1 Answer

I need to change my front and back shocks on my 1999 chevy blazer 4.3 4x4 and the bolts are pretty rusted so I want to go out and buy some new one's before I replace the old shocks in case I bust one, and...


If you call the dealer they may tell you the bolt size or they would get them for you. Probably wouldn't be too expensive and you would have the right size and grade.

Sep 17, 2009 | 1999 Chevrolet Blazer

1 Answer

Shocks


rear
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front

Removal
  1. Remove front shock absorber-to-upper shock bracket nut and bolt.
  1. Disconnect the lower end of the front shock absorber bolt and nut from the U-bolt plate.
  1. Compress the front shock absorber and remove.
Installation
  1. Insert front shock absorber into the front shock absorber mounting bracket (18183). Insert bolt and tighten nut to 60-81 Nm (45-60 lb-ft).
  1. Attach the lower end of the front shock absorber to the U-bolt plate by installing the nut and bolt. Tighten to 60-81 Nm (45-60 lb-ft).
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

front


Feb 04, 2009 | 1996 Ford F350 Crew Cab

1 Answer

I have a 2000 Dodge Dakota Sport, 3.9L 6 cyl, Rare wheel drive. Just tried installing a new KYB Monomax shock and it appears to be to long to fit (bottom clamp screws won't reach the bracket. Do I need...


Bought a longer screw and cranked that baby up to compress it. Then I threw the old bolts on that are shorter and it is gravy. I ran into a problem taking off the driver side shock though. The top of the old shock I was trying to remove stripped. That screwed me a few hours but I cracked the nut with a nut splitter and popped it off with a chisel and hammer after relentless whackings. New shocks installed in the front and I am good to roll. NUT SPLITTERS are a lifesaver. The amount of torque needed to crank a manual one is rediculous. Save yourself some time and strength and try to find a cheap hydrolic little one.

Aug 18, 2008 | Dodge Dakota Cars & Trucks

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