Question about 2009 Toyota Camry SE

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When driving slowly, say in a parking lot I hear a metallic squeaking from the front driver's side area. It's not there consistently, but does seem more pronounced with colder outside tempera

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 1861 Answers

SOURCE: 1992 toyota landcruiser squeaking

Actually, there are not a places to lubricate, other than the Rzeppa joints (those at the big ball & socket looking things right behind the front wheels). That being said, here is what I would look for if it was in my shop:
Examine the front sway bar bushings. They may be bad or worn. Rocking side to side will move the swat bar. Look at the bar, there are 4 bushings; 2 at each end, and 2 under the center of the vehicle, held in by a "half-moon" looking clamp. Spray WD-40 or something like that on it real good & drive it.
Get back to me if this does not help.

Posted on Sep 23, 2008

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pakis
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SOURCE: squeaking inside car

You look for a sharp and experience mechanic to pin-point this squeaky problem, this could come from many different parts of your car.

Otherwise,to resolve this you have to disassemble all your passenger side suspension system and check on all bushings, coil spring bushings, shock absorber, check on your brakes too.
wheel bearings stabilizer bushings.

Good luck

Posted on Dec 04, 2008

ronaldo_ross
  • 1056 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 2003 4runner

The rear brakes last a long time since 80% of braking is on the front wheels. This helps keep the car in a straight line in hard braking where the front wheel lock up. The rear wheels keep rolling to keep the car in a straight line much like a fin on a rocket keep its path straight through the air. If you have never changed the rear brakes then it is time to check it. The squeak is caused by a device mounted is such a way so that it touches the brake disk when the pad wears to a certain point. Letting you know it is time for a new pad.

Posted on May 24, 2011

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With out hearing the noise it is hard to say but it could be a wheel bearing but most of the time a bearing will hum, this could be a bad cv axle or a brake brake hitting the bracket, try to drive the car and hit the brake a little and see if the clicking goes away, if it does then i would say it is in the brakes. if it does not then have the cv axle checked.

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If you have a reliable mechanic, that's where I would head. However, if you are more of a DIY'er, grab a friend and head out to a vacant lot with some bumps where you can try and reproduce the problem. While one of you drives slowly, CAREFULLY, the other walk along side and try to pinpoint the source of the squeak (front driver side, rear passenger side, engine compartment, trunk, wherever). Note the speed and direction of turn when the squeak(s) appear, forward AND reverse? Does it happen when air temp is cold/hot, all the time? This is valuable info to relay to a mechanic.

The point is, suspension systems can be wildly complex and sensitive (as any BMW owner can testify), or fairly simple (think mid-70's leaf-sprung trucks).

Another factor is how many miles have you logged on your Kia? If you've hit 80k miles or more, this is when you can expect to start replacing many components that have reached the end of their service life.

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Could be the wheel cover (if equipped) git a little bent against the wheel itself. Try removing cover and see if sound is gone.

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On your brake pads there is a wear indicator tab. This is a metal tab that protrudes just past where the brake lining almost ends. It is there as an indicator that your brake pads are nearing the end of their life cycle and it is time to change them.
Please remember to rate this solution.

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Could be your steering gearbox, tierod end, rack and pinion piston, low power steering fluid, bad serp belt, ball joints, front struts/mounting hardware.

Also test steering with the entire vehicle on the floor and with the front end off the ground lifted by a few floor jacks lifting on the frame of the vehicle.

Ball joints especially on Ford vehicles tend to squeak after a while (mostly since they are the sealed type) even if they pass a safety inspection.

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I'd lean toward bushings of some sort. Inspect the control arm bushings for signs of cracking, and check the sway bar endlink bushings for wear and tear. Both of these parts are going to be worked harder on uneven roads than they will on a smooth freeway, and are likely candidates for causing your problems. A third possibility would be worn strut mounts, but I'd look at the control arm and swaybar bushings first.

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