Question about 2007 Chevrolet Uplander LS Minivan
Died while driving it on the highway. It wont turn over, and the horn just honks a couple of times
Do the headlamps work ? If so this rules out the battery an cable connections ! This is a very complex system on these newer GM vehicles , an you need a factory scan tool , not a code reader ! The ignition switch is an input to the BCM - body control module ! Here I will share what it states in Chevy factory service information.
Circuit Description (Key Start)
For ignition switch power modes refer to Body Control System Description and Operation . When the ignition switch is placed in the Start position a discrete signal is supplied to the body control module (BCM) notifying it that the ignition is in the Start position. The BCM then sends a message to the engine control module (ECM) notifying it that CRANK has been requested. At the same time the BCM is supplying 12 volts for the IGN 1 relay closing it and supplying battery positive voltage for the crank relay coil. The ECM verifies that the transmission is in Park or Neutral. If it is, the ECM grounds the control circuit of the crank relay. When this occurs battery positive voltage is supplied through the switch side of the crank relay to the S terminal of the starter solenoid. Now ,if you don't understand any of this I suggest you take it to your nearest Chevy dealer ! Messing with these system not knowing what your doing can render your vehicle useless ! An replacing any module on the vehicle will cause the result ! They need to be programmed by the dealer !
The body control system consists of the body control module (BCM) and its associated controls. Battery positive voltage is provided to the BCM from the TURN/HAZ fuse and the CHMSL/BKUP fuse in the fuse block instrument panel (I/P). The module grounds are wired to ground G200, G201 and G301. The BCM is wired to the class 2 serial data communication bus as well as discrete input and output terminals to control the functions of the vehicles body .
Power Mode Master
This vehicles body control module (BCM) functions as the Power Mode Master (PMM). Refer to Power Mode Description and Operation for a complete description of the power mode functions.
Power to many of this vehicle?€™s circuits are controlled by the module that is designated the Power Mode Master (PMM). This vehicle?€™s PMM is the Body Control Module (BCM). The PMM controls which power mode (Run, Accessory, Crank, Retained Accessory Power, or Off) is active.
Serial Data Power Mode
On vehicles that have several control modules connected by serial data circuits, one module is the power mode master (PMM). On this vehicle, the PMM is the body control module (BCM). The PMM receives 3 discrete ignition switch signals to differentiate which power mode will be sent over the Serial Data circuits. The table below illustrates the state of these inputs in correspondence to the ignition switch position
Posted on Apr 30, 2015
This procedure usually works:
·Check the battery cable connections:
Make sure the negative cable makes a good ground connection at the battery and (preferably) at the engine. Make sure the positive cable, makes a good connection at the battery and at the starter.
·Check the battery the simple way, like this:
Turn on the headlights, then try to start the car.If the headlights do not dim or go out, then the battery is likely ok.
·Check the starter and solenoid:
If the wiring looks ok, then look at the starter solenoid for a good connection, and proper voltage at the starter(10 volts minimum while cranking).
If the starter spins and no crank, the problem is most likely the Solenoid's pinion gear is stuck.
Have someone hit (not too hard) the starter while you try to start the car. This usually works by dislodging a stuck pinion gear.
·Make a simple test of the alternator:
If you can, somehow get the engine running, measure the voltage at the battery. It should be at least 13.6 volts to properly charge the battery.
Posted on Apr 30, 2015
I\'m having similar issue. I parked my 2007 Chevy Uplander in the driveway for winter, went out to start it for awhile and it wouldn\'t start, thought it was dead battery due to cold. Went out next day and before putting charger on it I turned the key again, this time the horn blew everytime I turned the key, no engine turnover, no click no nothing, just the horn blowing (scared me the first time)
I put the charger/starter on it to see what it said and it says the battery is charged, the computer in the dash says the battery is at 13.8 v too.
I thought mouse or rabbit chewed on something, but then when I Googled the problem and I found someone with the exact vehicle and exact problem I\'m thinking that it is not an animal of this World, but a Gremlin.
Does anyone have any ideas at all?
Posted on Jan 04, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
check relay , yes , also check ground circuit, if horn grounds by it's mount or by external wire... check all.. also check horn button contacts go bad or horn brush in steering wheel...
Posted on Aug 04, 2009
SOURCE: 2000 Tahoe Horn broken
You can remove the horn relay and use a Ohm meter and check the resistance between the horn relay connector terminal No. 86 (Black Wire) and ground. If the ohms are less then 5 ohms replace the horn relay. There are a lot more tests but as Polarcycle states you can do what he suggested other then I believe you have two horns in this vehicle.
Posted on Aug 03, 2009
Since the Uplanders have the long (front to back) skinny gas tank, with the outlet to the rear; if you run out of gas with the front/nose inclined lower than the rear, then it can take upwards of 5 to 8 gallons to get it started again. It was written up in a GM TSB. Two gallons won't start it. When the gage reads less than 1/2, it's not a good idea to park with the front lower than the rear...unless you carry a full 5 gal. refill. Thank you GM engineering.
Posted on Feb 20, 2010
SOURCE: 2005 Chev Uplander Hood Ajar
This sounds like the remote start hood switch.If it is a pin type switch check to make sure the contacts are clean and not all corroded so that it can get a prober ground circuit. Also check to see if it is contacting the hood, watch it and close the hood slowly. It must contact and push the pin down. If it is not a pin type switch but a mercury switch it will be screwed onto the hood and have 2 wires coming out of it. One wire goes to ground and will be screwed or bolted to the vehicle. Make sure there is good metal on metal contact for that wire. The other wire will run directly to the remote start. The mercury switch itself has to be angled away from the hood so it can tell if it is open or closed. Tilt it downward a bit by pulling on it. There should be about a 45 degree angle between the switch and the hood. If none of this helps let me know. We will figure it out.
Posted on Feb 10, 2011
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