My car keeps coming up with check drive train wat may be the problem

The shift linkage could be loose/disconnected, the transmission or other part of the drive train could be broken.

ur car could be falling into limp mode..wat year make an model is it? also make sure ur check eng lite even works when u first turn ignition on it normally does a bulb check an they should all light up on ur instrument panel..check for the yellow check eng light.. also scan ur vehicle sometimes codes are recorded but not hard enough to illuminate the light.but they will be stored .history codes should be checked too...hope this helps .keep me informed

why do you keep filling it up? If you overfill either the radiator or the reservoir it is as bad as not filling up...
Is there a temperature issue?
If the reservoir is NOT using, or appearing to 'use' any coolant.. then that is a good thing.. it IS a reserve tank, a reservoir.. tank for overspill and should never be more than 1/3 full..

Hello

The Engine and Automatic Transmission (not applicable to manual transmissions) in this vehicles drive train are fully electronically controlled by a computer called the PCM and TCM (Power Train Control Module, Transmission Control Module). When a problem like this or other drive-ability related problems occurs the computer stores a record of the problem (there are of course some exceptions to this, like the fuel pump, engine coolant temperature sensor and MAF sensor for instance) in the form of a fault code in its memory, to read these fault codes you must have the systems memory scanned with a special tool. Once the fault code(s) are read you then must perform the appropriate diagnostic testing to find and resolve the problem(s) DO NOT REPLACE ANY PARTS UNTIL A TRAINED TECHNICAIN HAS DIAGNOSED THE PROBLEM TO AVOID SPENDING YOUR HARD EARNED MONEY ON PARTS THAT MAY NOT CORRECT THE PROBLEM. Also always check fuel pressure for correct spec for your make and engine type.

Hello
The Engine and Automatic Transmission (not applicable to manual transmissions) in this vehicles drive train are fully electronically controlled by a computer called the PCM and TCM (Power Train Control Module, Transmission Control Module). When a problem like this or other drive-ability related problems occurs the computer stores a record of the problem (there are of course some exceptions to this, like the fuel pump, engine coolant temperature sensor and MAF sensor for instance) in the form of a fault code in its memory, to read these fault codes you must have the systems memory scanned with a special tool. Once the fault code(s) are read you then must perform the appropriate diagnostic testing to find and resolve the problem(s) DO NOT REPLACE ANY PARTS UNTIL A TRAINED TECHNICAIN HAS DIAGNOSED THE PROBLEM TO AVOID SPENDING YOUR HARD EARNED MONEY ON PARTS THAT MAY NOT CORRECT THE PROBLEM. Also always check fuel pressure for correct spec for your make and engine type.

1 problem at a time

1st-- squeaks-- when the breaks where replaced where the anti-radile clips put back in, if so dose squeak rear or front

if rear check spring kits

2nd-- jerks-- this could be drive train question dose ur engine seem to rev at all wen this is happening


try this

goto an area where this is safe

driving at normal speeds put the shifter in neutral (this will NOT hurt it if you follow wat i say)
now apply the brakes dose it **** if so problem is in breaks is not get ur trans looked at
''''''''''DO NOT PUT BACK IN GGEAR UNTILL U HAVE CAME TO A COMPLEAT STOP'''''''
good luck

ill assume only occurrs when drive train is warmed up...cold ok?shift valves sticking in valve body and a very common problem with these vehicles equipped with 5 speed auto trans.check fluid color.brown is normal on these units....black is bad.if its still brown and not black replace the valve body to eliminate this concern.its alittle pricey but about a third of the cost of transaxle replacement.

If you can tell where the knock is coming from, it helps a great deal. I know it can be hard for a person not really trained, so I will try to keep it simple. If it sounds like it's coming from the bottom of the enginem then it's most likely a bad bearing. If it sounds like it's coming from the middle or top, then it might be a bad valve lifter or other vbalve train component failure.

I wouldn't drive it if possible and have it towed to a repair shop that you trust for diagnosis. If it is a bad bearing and you continue to drive it, it can cause total failure of the engine and extensive damage.

You mused in I-Drive set RPA/RDC and reset it

Usually caused by preload of the relationship between the front and rear drive train units...Engauge and disengauge require circle driving, thinking in terms of having 1/2 move in relation to the other 1/2. Nothing would change while driving straight....

Doc