Question about 1995 Lincoln Continental

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No spark 95 continenal

Motor cranks over but no fire at plugs. coils ohn out correct.have 12 volts at wire to coils but the ground wire does not ground. replaced crankshaft sensor

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  • smitty62 Oct 27, 2008

    how to test ignition module? what signals the pcm to open and close the circuit for the coils? I have the 2 coil packs and not individual one if that helps any. I have a book for mustang 4.6L but do not know if checking codes are the same

  • yadayada
    yadayada May 11, 2010

    What trouble codes do you have? has the ignition module been tested? Coils are turned on and off by the ground from the PCM.

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  • Master
  • 1,596 Answers

NO TEST FOR IGNITION MODULE , I can say that this seems to be your problem here.As this Engine is pretty Notorious for this Module I have Personaly Foun this Several times

Posted on Feb 11, 2009

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2004 chrysler van 3.8 motor replaced coil pack still doesnt fire number 4 cylinder


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Guessing you have actually removed each plug attached to coil and grounded to see if the coils are firing. The fact that you have voltage in does not mean voltage out of coils...they do fail.
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1998 Ford Explorer, 4.0 SOHC No Spark. Engine will crank but it won't start. Replaced the Crankshaft Sensor, Coil Pack, & Spark Plugs. Still no spark. What next?


You are at thhe right trail what controls spark is coil pack crank sensor sparkplugs and plug wire but the most important is power . I mean 12 volt connections and ground This includes checking fuses you need a simple volt meter doesnt have to expensive or fancy just to pick up 12 volts let start with fuses in the engine juction box (there not mark to what it belongs to) make sure none are open. especially fuse 19 and 24 , next go to the crank sensor make sure the tabs are snuggly on now to the coil pack there is a red and light green wire this comes from ignition and feeds 12 volts at the coil pack measure that voltage is it 12 volts if not correct it this is from ignition switch ( you can make a tool that feed 12 volt with a wire and a fuse in series and attatch it to battery and the primary wire this is known as hot wire) next go to the ECM wiggle the wires see if that get a connection going if not go back to the ICM here are the wire you are to measure the tan light green, this is from ECM and it is pulsed it measure 5vlts to 0 volts switched then measure the tan orange the same thing 5 volts to zero,then tan white again 5vlts to zero. any one of these 5 to zero fails you fix is the ecm

Aug 21, 2011 | 1998 Ford Explorer

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SKIPPING PROBLEM . SPARK PLUGS & WIRES HAS BEEN DONE. THERE'S NO 12 VOLTS AT THE COIL CONNECTOR PLUG WITH THE KEY ON. LYMAN


Sound like a ground problem; the fastest way to identify the Power and Ground Circuits is using a wiring diagram. If you don't have one you'll have to find out by trial and error as you probe each circuit.

The power circuit is tested with the Key On and Engine Off. Place one end of your multimeter or Test Light on the Battery Negative Terminal and with the other end, probe the Power Circuit. Turn the Key to the Run position. If the Power Circuit is OK, the Multimeter will show 12 Volts or the Test Light will light up. Here are the possible results:
* You got 12 Volts on the Power Circuit
Good, this is a good sign. The next step is to check the Ground Circuit of the Coil on Plug connector that you're testing.

* No Power in only one Ignition Coil
Without 12 Volts, the Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coil will not work, thus you have just eliminated that specific Ignition Coil as the source of the fault. Replacing the Ignition Coil with a new one will only be a waste of time and money since, without Power the new one will not Spark.
Since the Power Circuit is shared by all of the coils on the majority of Coil-on-Plug Ignition Systems. The most likely cause will be an open short in that Ignition Coil's Power Circuit.
You'll have to consult your Repair Manual's wiring diagrams to make sure how everything is wired up.
After repairing the short, re-do the Spark Test to verify the Ignition Coil is now working.

* No Power at any Ignition Coils
The fuse or relay that supplies this voltage is blown or BAD.
You'll have to consult your Repair Manual's wiring diagrams to see where this fuse and/or relay is located and replace as necessary.
After replacing the blown fuse or the defective relay. Retest the Ignition Coil.

Them, the Ground Circuit is tested with the Key On or Off. It doesn't matter because this is a Chassis Ground. Place one end of your multimeter or Test Light on the Battery Positive Terminal and with the other end, probe the Ground Circuit. If the Ground Circuit is OK, the Multimeter will show 12 Volts or the Test Light will light up.

* You got Ground
Good, now the next step is to verify that the Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coil is receiving the Triggering Signal. This info belongs to the next section of this article.

* No Ground in only one Ignition Coil
Without this Ground, the Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coil will not work, thus you have just eliminated that specific Ignition Coil as the source of the fault. Replacing the Ignition Coil with a new one will only be a waste of time and money since, without Ground the new one will not Spark.
Since the Ground Circuit is shared by all of the coils on the majority of Coil-on-Plug Ignition Systems. The most likely cause will be an open short in that Ignition Coil's Ground Circuit.
You'll have to consult your Repair Manual's wiring diagrams to make sure how everything is wired up.
After repairing the short, re-do the Spark Test to verify the Ignition Coil is now working.

* No Ground at any Ignition Coils
This usually happens thru' human error in most cases and is a very rare thing. Usually the engine was replaced and this ground was not re-attached.
You can Ground this circuit with a jumper wire. Jumpering to Ground just one Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coil should provide Ground to all of them (consult your Repair Manual's Wiring Diagrams to be sure).
With this jumper wire to Ground attached, crank the vehicle.
If in fact the Ground Circuit does have an open short, this (the jumper wire to Ground) should make the vehicle start, or at least get the Ignition Coil to Spark.
Repair the open short and retest for Spark or retry starting the vehicle.


Hope this helps. Keep us updated.

Aug 19, 2011 | 2003 Chrysler Town & Country

1 Answer

Car was running for couple of minuites then quit. now engine cranks but will not fire


Too many choices. Try spraying starting fluid into air intake in order to determine if it is lack of fuel.
If that does not fire at all, then attach a spare spark plug to one of the spark plug wires, with the spark plug thread grounded. Then watch for spark when cranked.
If not, then consider if ignition switch is getting current to ignition module, by using a 12 volt test light. Take ignition module/coil to place like Autozone for testing. Last I can think of is distributer module. Can also be tested if you take it in, but watch carefully when you take it out, so that you can put it back in with the same rotation. Use tape to make a mark.

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No spark to the coil


No spark to the coil or is it no spark from the coil? First verify that you have 12 volts to the coil when you turn ignition switch on if not you will never have spark from the coil going to the plugs. If you do have 12 volts to the coil and still no spark you have a bad coil. To see if the coil is firing, unplug a spark plug wire from it's plug and hold it to a chasis ground while attempting to start the vehicle. There should be a strong spark and popping sound. Remember to wear leather glove or thick work glove if holding the wire by hand to avoid shock. If there is a strong spark then coil is good.

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I just changed my spark plugs , wires , and coil on my 2000 ford explorer and it will turn over but it wont crank. what do i need to do?


Have you checked to see if you have spark to the plugs? I have found that on some Explorers , the primary voltage to the coil was not there. I know it sounds complicated, but it's not. You have a 4 wire connector at the coil pack. One of the wires has battery voltage going to it. When this wire is checked with a voltmeter when the key is on ,it will show 12 volts. When this wire is checked while cranking the voltage may drop to 9 volts or less. This is "NO GOOD'. If you find this, rewire a jumper from Batt to this wire. Should result in a start and run. Good luck Moe

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