Just changed starter.... I had unhooked the negative battery cable so as not to chance possible arc. When I had finished the car starts and runs fine. However, its marker lights and interior lights are flashing like hazzards. I don't know what to make of it.
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1st thing to check is battery connections. Make sure they are on tight.
If so, then check the ground connection.. Negative battery wire to body connection. Check if solid, not full of corrosion or seperated.
Try getting a jump.. It's possible the battery is depleted entirely, if you have a short.
unhooking one of the battery cables and leave it off for at least 20
minutes. When you hook it back up the computers should re-boot. That has
solved problems for me with heater, interior lites, power windows, AC,
day time running lites, power mirrors, CD player, and wipers on GM autos
and S-10 PU and Dodge trucks. None of the switches are connected to the
device they control anymore. The switch tells the computer to open the
window and the computer send a signal to the window motor. When the
computer gets confused strange things will happen or not happen. Of course you may have to re-set your radio stations.
Finding/Replacing 1998 Legacy StarterTo find the starter on any car, follow the heavy lead from the positive terminal on the battery. A dedicated cable will connect to the starter. The starter is at the back of the engine compartment, driver's side, accessible from the top. Begin by unhooking the negative lead of the battery; the positive supply to the starter is unswitched and will be hot otherwise. There are two main bolts holding the starter in place. Remove the positive cable from the lug by removing the nut and washer, and pull off the ignition switch lead (these are next to each other on the upper side). The ground cable is attached to a bracket that is held on by the upper attachment bolt. When you remove the upper bolt the cable and bracket will be free. Leave bracket attached to the ground strap. The upper bolt is 14mm, the lower nut (which goes on a stud that stays in place) is 17mm. You will need several different size socket-wrench extensions (I used two 3" extensions on bottom and one on top) to get in a position to work. (It would, at minimum, take a lot of patience to do this with a wrench.) The order in which the bolt and nut are removed doesn't appear to be important. The nut on the underside can't be seen from above, so must be done "blind." Look at the replacement starter to see where the nut will be, and what the shape of the casing is around it. Small hands are an advantage here. There's not a lot of room to work, and it's hard to get enough leverage, so you will a small length of curved metal electrical conduit very handy as a cheater bar. (Real mechanics should get a chuckle out of that.) In replacing the bolts, they really should be torqued to specifications, but I used the "pretty tight plus a half turn" approach. Hard to imagine getting a torque wrench in there, unless you happen to have a power ratchet with a torque setting - in which case, you shouldn't need any advice. As always, get both the bolt and the nut snugged up before the final tightening. It is not necessary to worry about the alignment of the part, which is accomplished by the stud and bolt. Replace the positive cable and the ignition lead. Check and see if you've knocked any hoses off (there are several right in the way); The last step is to replace the negative battery cable. The running lights will begin to flash when the battery is reconnected. This is normal (some sort of anti-theft thing, I think) and will stop when a button on the keyless entry is pressed. The job will take about 30 minutes if you are skilled, perhaps 90 minutes if you're at the "oil change" level of competence. If you can't put a washer and nut on by feel, then you might get stuck in the middle of the operation
Under dash by your left knee is a 4"x4" box. It has a small wire lead with a button on the end. Turn ignition on and push button. Resets the alarm. THis will stop your lights from flashing. Have a great day.
Did you bench test the old starter? Did you bench test the new starter?
the battery may appear to be good, but try jumping it with another battery.
check the cables.
use a set of jumper cables to bypass the battery cables, this is a quick way to trouble shoot the cables.
hook red to the start solenoid an black to the engine block.
Try these and let us know how you make out
hope this is of some help.
not sure if this will help, but I recently changed the engine in my subaru and changed battery + starter also. Would start but then not restart once warmed up. Turns out the engine ground got forgotten, had that hooked back up after banging my head on a wall for a week and it runs like new
when you replaced the starter did you ensure the battery cables and terminals were clean? if not driving it that way may have hampered your alternator's ability to properly charge your new battery. i would make sure they were clean and tight then charge the battery and try again. the starter is located on the driver side of the engine on the bottom. disconnect your battery negative terminal before removing the starter.