Car starts from cold and will idle if driven will only travel a few hundres metres before engin cuts out or if switched off while stationary will not start again until engin cools down. Also after engin cuts out or switched off diseal pump makes buzzing sound that also stops when engin cools at which time the car may be started again? Engin management codes read from snap-on reader include: 00104, 01570, 32772, 00195, 12293, 13057, 05376, 00316, 01553, 00518, 31795, 08576, 08448, 27208, 02180, 00085, 00046, 04866,19968, 26731, 01536. Unable to clear codes using snap-on device.
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Re: renault megan scenic dti diognostic fault codes
Whats else do you expect ,snap on code reader your having a laugh .YOU HONESTLY EXPECT TO READ A RENAULT ???????????????WITH ENCRYPTED SOFTWARE .sounds like an ECU problem but it could be something simple on the fuel injection system but without hearing the noise to know if its air in pump or an electrical buzz .check fuel IN line for ingression of air first ,also check for return in case its blocked causing the pressure to build up to high .call a scrapyard then report vehicle stolen and make a claim .this is a renault remember its designed to be dealer only repairs not weekend mechanics
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I had an experience with a 1984 T-Bird with a 302. The 1986 may have the same system. With that car there was a temperature sensor that affected the idle speed once the car was close to warming up.
With even later models there is a "cold start sequence" which is an electronic way of replacing the ancient choke. The "cold" feature set the fuel mix and the RPM and made starts easier. Now you did not say if the starting problem was when hot or cold or both.
The poor performance when slowing down can be related to the idle rpm being set too low once the thermal switch cuts out. What happens is someone tunes the engine for a rpm that may be correct for the car, but the thermal switch has not dropped the rpm yet. Then when the car really heats up, the idle drops even lower and when you take off your foot from the throttle, the throttle closes too much and the engine cuts out when you are slowing.
Put in a new thermostat. The idle settings can not be set until the thermal switches activate to a run position. Also you may have some vacuum lines crossed which are making the cold and hot cycles reverse. There should be a label with vacuum line routing shown stuck on a part that holds the radiator.
you stated the bad , but what is the good.
can it be driven? with full power.
your car has no year? and if working engine,? what engine? option
ever get a 60,000 mile tune up this decade? (just old spark plugs do this)
you start the cold engine/
can you keep it running, with a fast right foot action?
starts after 5min, then runs perfect all day???????
If the pedal is operating the clutch and its not a hydraulic problem then you do the mechanics trick of the trade ,warm up engine then turn it off ,now selsct first gear -handbrake off and start car in gear and drive with foot on clutch ,jerk the car a bit with the throttle and the clutch will release in the first hundred metres or so ,well they normally do anyway
Check the fluid level in the power steering reservoir and also see if it needs flushing. You could probably "cheat' a flush by using a turkey baster to suck out all the fluid and replace it with fresh fluid, then a day or so later, repeat it. Do this a few times until the fluid remains pretty clean (meaning you've replaced it all) and see if it behaves normally.
Going from memory, I think your car needs a specific Pentosin fluid (CH11? CH202? something like that) - make SURE you get the right fluid.
WHEN YOU DISCONNECT THE BATTERY THE ENGINE MANAGEMENT SYSTEMS PCM LOSES IT MEMORY INCLUDING ENGINE IDLING.THE COMPUTER WILL HAVE TO RELEARN THE OPERATING VALUES. IF CAR DOES A LOT OF STALLING AT STOP LIGHTS AND STOP SIGNS. GO BY FORD DEALERSHIP LET THEM REPROGRAM THE PCM.PROBABLY CHARGE YOU $35.00 DOLLARS. TO REPROGRAM PCM.
the engine management system on most new cars "learns" to adapt to your driving style. when the battery is disconnected, the system can reset itself to the default settings. this means that the car can run a little eratically for a few days or a few hundred miles until the system starts to relearn and adapts again. this is not unusual, and should cure itself within a few days. if it continues for more than a week or a few hundred miles, then it may be worth getting the car checked.
could be fuel starvation when changing over from one fuel to another.end of one/start of another,especially when engine cold and running on richer mixture .answer is only change when car is at normall temp.sorry but this is in the gas convertion manual....
early production 202 chasis cars had an updated overvoltage protection relay modification. I beleive it was to remidy a no start condition. From my experience there was a problem with the o2 senser heater circiut that would cause intermittent stalling when cold. There should be codes stored in the engine diagnostic modul even if hfm has not reconized a problem. i would have the scanned for codes. If none present I would purge the intake manifold(clean with special cleaner inducted into manifold via vac, port to remove all the carbon buld up and have the maf senser electrical porion cleaned. It would be a good idea to replace the front o2s with the mileage you have on vehicle.The heater grid is also located internally in the o2 senser. Hopefully you maintain your vehicle and have changed the sparkplugs and fuel filter according to service specs. Good luck