Question about 2000 Buick Regal

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2000 buick regal is stalling with no check engine light

I have a 2000 buick regal ls. It has always ran fine but tonight when i tried to start it the rpm gauge dropped to zero and it cut off. This happened six times before I got it back to my friends house to call a tow truck. I had to keep my foot on the gas to keep the motor on. It still looked like it was on but it wasnt. there was no check engine light and nothing indicating anything wrong, i looked at other forums and people say fuel pressure regulator but i dont want to spend money for nothing. i got the car started after i towed it home and as soon as it got to regular temperature it cut off again. I dont want to pay a mechanic $500 to tell me its a $50 part. Other forums say map sensor or egr valve, or volt regulator but there is no check engine light and i think those things would throw one. Can anyone help???

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  • timothy Feb 22, 2012

    My motor is 3.8 liter series 2. Do you know if the car dying at operating temperature would be a crank position sensor causing it? or maybe ignition switch? I first thought it was fuel pressure regulator but mine does not look removable then i also heard egr valve causes similar but these throw codes i thought. i replaced iat and nothing. the iat looked awful and was covered in **** but it didnt fix it

  • timothy Feb 22, 2012

    a lot of forums say the cam position sensor/ crank sensor throws check engine code. and cause the car to crank but not start. My car start then the idle jumps up and down between 1 and 2 on the rpm then when the car gets to operating temperature it dies and wont start until its cool again. There are NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS during any of this.

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First, I think you have been going to the wrong mechanic if he is going to charge you $500 to diagnose a simple stalling problem.

Second, just because the check engine light is not on, does not mean that there are no fault codes stored in your computer. Some codes only turn the check engine light on if the problem is present at the time that you have the engine running. Other codes do not turn the check engine light on at all, but will usually store "Freeze Frame Data" to allow a technician to see what the operating conditions were when the code set.
So it would still be advisable to scan your engine computer for possible codes.
With all that said, your Regal is equipped with a 3.8L engine. Those things are notorious for the crankshaft position sensors going bad and not setting any codes.

They are also known for the ignition control modules going bad and causing a no-spark condition. When this happens it will usually set a code for EST Spark Timing (which may or may not turn the check engine light on).

Posted on Feb 21, 2012

Testimonial: "i will take your advice im going to buy a obd 2 code reader from auto zone an try to pull codes it will be worth it to own one. the moron at auto zone told me the computer didnt have codes in it wen there was not cel present so il never listen to a person there again. i will post again after ive hooked it up, i hope that driving it wen it went out did not damage my motor, thanks for sticking with me so far i was afraid id b stuck with a mechanic"

  • dttech
    dttech Feb 22, 2012

    Did you READ my post? NOT ALL FAULT CODES CAUSE THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT TO TURN ON. There is also a LOT of engine data that can be checked and verified to eliminate many of the possibilities - whether there are any stored fault codes or not. It sounds very much like a crank sensor from the way you describe it. That engine will run WITHOUT the cam sensor. The cam sensor is only for syncronizing the fuel injectors and affects the engine mostly only at idle. You can completely remove the cam sensor and it will still run. You probably wouldn't notice much change in drivability at all, but it will start using a lot more fuel. A cam sensor and a crank sensor are two different things. The engine will not run without the crank sensor. The crank sensor controls the spark from the ignition. It is also where your tachometer gets it's data (which would explain the "jumping" on the tach just before the engine shuts down).

    So far, you have jumped all over the place...Fuel pressure regulator to cam sensor to EGR valve to IAT sensor....Have you TESTED or VERIFIED OPERATION of ANY of these things? You have listed parts for the fuel control system, the fuel delivery system, the ignition system and the auxilliary emissions system. You have not even determined which SYSTEM is at fault and want to know what parts to replace to fix the vehicle! If you do all the stuff that some of the nincompoops on most of the forums tell you to do, you will have a new car and will have spent WAY OVER $500 before you get this figured out.

    You can keep on GUESSING and try throwing parts at it if you like. However, be aware that your engine is computer-controlled. Trying to diagnose and repair it without the ability to interface with the computer that controls it is like trying to surf the internet with no monitor. If you push all the right buttons and click your mouse just right, you might get to the page that you are looking for (not likely - but possible). However, when you do get there, you still won't know it....

    Another way to verify if it could possibly be the crank sensor is to check for spark at the ignition coils when the engine is refusing to start. But once again, the ignition control modules are also known for this...like I said in my original post.

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