Question about 1997 Saab 900
Pull back on the turn signal lever.
Posted on Feb 21, 2012
Testimonial: "i was just stupid. i ran to the store at nighjt and because of the day-time run lights, i didn't have my lights on. once i turned my lights on, the brights worked just fine. thanks for your help anyways."
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: what type of oil on 97 saab 900
If turbo in a temperate climate, use 0W40 or 5W40 synth for year round protection. If naturally aspirated, you can use the same or 5W30. If you live a particularly hot climate, 10W40 will work just fine too, and you might even be well off to go to 10W50, at least in the hottest months. Turbos generate a lot of extra heat which contributes to quick long chain molecule shear down in multi- viscosity oils. Accordingly, a 40 wt oil will quickly thin down to something more like a 30 weight oil. Oil pressure in these cars is marginal at idle, so keeping a close eye on good viscosity is pretty important, as that helps keep pressure up.
Posted on Apr 29, 2009
1. Remove the battery.
2. Remove the clutch cable end from the clutch arm end at the wire stop.
3. Slide out the rubber doughnut from the gearbox housing which holds the clutch cable
4. Move the distribution box nut and the alarm pin attached to it (some modules)
5. Disconnect the clutch cable holder from the fender and the data link holder.
6. Remove the drivers lower panel below the steering wheel and remove the air duct as well as the knee shield.
7. Slide out the fuse box holder and ICE Box (should be a black box with many wires going to it). You can remove the instrument cluster at this point but you can also do this without removing the cluster with a little patience
8. Move the pedal spring to one side and remove the eye catch for the cable.
9. Remove the clutch cable by pulling it out from the engine compartment
10. Reinstall in the reverse. Saab actually came out with a bulletin which Needed one to install two washers at the back of the new cable instead of one. The factory cable comes with one but you can remove the 2nd washer off the old cable and install it on the new cable so two exist. This helps take up excessive pedal slack.
Posted on Apr 29, 2009
A SAAB dealer should be able to print one out for you. BTW that engine is practically identical to the V6 used in a caddy Catera, and Saturn Ion. Those diagrams would be the same, so you might want to search that also.
Posted on Mar 25, 2009
Remove Air Filter.
Loosen the bolts securing the crankshaft pulley. Remove the load from the
belt tensioner by turning the belt tensioner pulley locking bolt forward in the
car using a 15 mm wrench. Remove the belt from the coolant pump pulley and
slowly release the belt tensioner.
Remove the belt tensioner and remove the steering pump pulley
Remove the water pump pulley use the engine bracket to pry against.
Remove the timing cover and Remove the right-hand front wheel and the cover
in the wheel housing.
Remove the crankshaft pulley (undo the six bolts but do not remove the
Place the engine top dead center and Zero the engine. The markings on the
camshaft sprockets and timing cover should be in alignment as also should the
marking on the crankshaft. Use locking tools 83 95 006 and KM-800-2 for the
camshaft sprockets and locking tool KM-800-10 for the crankshaft (These tools
can be purchased from Saab (18774177222) or from Baum Tools).
Before removing the toothed belt mark its direction of rotation . To
facilitate refitting the belt can be marked at both the camshaft marking and the
STEP 10 Fit the toothed belt according to the marked direction of rotation. Use setting tool 83 95 006 to keep the belt in place and adjust the tensioning roller loosely by hand to prevent the belt from jumping off. Adjust counterclockwise. Fit a section of the toothed belt and fit tool 83 93 985 to measure the belt tension. Loosely tighten the centre bolts of the adjusting rollers. Adjust the lower adjusting roller counter clockwise to a belt tension of 275-300 Nm. Turning torque 30 lb.ft ft ******The adjustment of the belt tension is for preparation ONLY and must not be used as a check when the belt adjusted for the final time! STEP 11 Turn the engine over two revolutions until just before the zero mark and place the locking tool on the crankshaft. Carefully turn the crankshaft in the direction of engine rotation until the arm rests against the coolant pump's flange and then tighten the arm. Fit setting tool 8395006 and check that the markings on the camshaft sprockets are aligned with the markings in the tool. ********Check that the A marking is approximately 2mm above B marking. If the distance is less readjustment is necessary. STEP 12 Fit the crankshaft pulley and Tighten to a torque of 15 foot lbs. STEP 13 Reinstall the inner wheel cover and front right wheel.
STEP 14 Reinstall Timing Cover.
STEP 15 Reinstall the water pump pulley use the engine bracket for leverage. STEP 16 Reinstall the power steering pulley and tighten to 6 foot lbs. STEP 17 Reinstall the belt tensioner and tighten to 30 foot lbs. STEP 18 Remove the belt tensioner load/pressure by turning the belt tensioner pulley locking bolt forwards in the car using a 15 mm wrench. Install the belt on the coolant pump pulley. Carefully release the belt tensioner. STEP 19 Reinstall the Air Cleaner and hoses that accompany Release the belt tension and remove the toothed belt.
Posted on Aug 24, 2008
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