Question about 2000 Acura TL
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 2004 Acura TL front end problem
You may not need the entire strut, just the part that serves as a shock absorber. The term strut refers to a complete assemby with coil spring and a central shock absorber.
When their seals fail completely, whether gas or fluid filled,they are just a piston in a cylinder with nothing to damp their travel so they can slam at both ends.
American made 'shocks' were once only really effective for ~20k miles but both foreign and domestic have improved a great deal but one of yours may have left the factory less than perfect.
Shop the parts before you let the car go to anyone to see if they are scalping you or only marking their cost up a little.
Posted on Nov 06, 2008
Look for the end of the wire retainer clip. Unhook it and lift it up. Remember not to touch the bulb. But if you do, just clean it with a bit of alcohol.
btw - Here's a bit of info from a previous post of mine...
The low beams consist of three parts. The bulb, inverter/ballast and the ignitor. The bulbs usually start to loose their color long before they burn out. The inverters/ballasts either go out after a while or take a while to start up.
Before you spend money on a new bulb, try swapping it with the one on the other side. You'll need a security torx screwdriver to get the covers off of the back of the lights. Don't touch the glass bulbs. If you do, just clean them with a bit of alcohol.
If the problem stays on that side, try swapping the ignitors. They're mounted inside the black covers.
If the problem is still on that side you've got a bad inverter. They're mounted on the bottom of the headlight assembly. You'll need to remove the front bumper and remove the headlight assembly to get to it. (I recommend you take pictures as you remove things so can put them back together correctly.)
Posted on Jan 05, 2009
This starter can be changed without disassembling the top of the engine on the 2.5 with automatic transmission. You will need a 10mm, 14 mm, 17mm, and a 9mm wrench. First with any electrical repair disconnect the battery at the negative terminal. The starter is on the driver's side close to the firewall below the intake manifold. Remove the transmission dip stick so you don't ruin it, then look and study the starter itself. You will notice the starter drive housing with a top and bottom bolt. The top bolt is a 14mm and the bottom a 17mm, loosen both a half turn. Remove the top 14mm bolt first, then the bottom 17mm, this will allow you to pull the starter out of the bell housing. With some angling and no brackets holding the back of the starter you should be able to pull it out enough to disconnect the positive wire and 9mm nut from the soleniod. Disconnect the starter ignition small wire by pulling it off it's connector. Now just pull it out of the engine and fender void and you've got it, saving about a hundred and fifty dollars of labor. Take it to the parts house and match it up with a well made remanufactured or new starter. Reverse the proceedure, hook up the battery.
Posted on Mar 19, 2009
Depending on how long you drove it low and how low it is (was), You can severely damage trans. Oil keeps it cool and lubricated. Parts in there are very sensitive to both. If you think it's got a noisy bearing, try to isolate which side. drive with windows open, have someone help you by listening on passenger side as well. If it's that noisy should not be too hard to find.
Posted on Apr 04, 2009
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