Question about 1992 Daihatsu Charade
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
You need to check the throttle stop cushion is making contact. The engine will hunt if you have air in the throttlebody coolant pipes, if the coolant sensor is faulty or if the TPS isn't calibrated.
Posted on Sep 04, 2008
My first thouhts are your ignition is still your problem, but upu haven't made it clear if the problem exists only when the engine is cold.
On the Charde you must push the pedal down before pulling the choke lever for the choke and fast idle linkages to engage... then start the engine.
The idle circuit consists of an emulsion tube and a solenoid. The solenoid is on the back of the carby and has a green wire running to it. If there isn't 12 volts on this at startup you wont be able to get the engine to idle without pedal assistance.
The carburettor also has an acceleration plunger that squirts a shot of fuel into the engine when trying to increase speed. This has a concetrina boot that can leak. It is situated on to op the carby.
The vacuum hoses need to connected correctly, especially one of the distributor hoses. That one must be connected to AD port on the carby. The following diagram is one of my modified layouts, but should work satifactorily. It is configured so that you can set the ignition timing a little more advanced than factory. When you set the timing make sure both hoses to the dizzy are removed and blocked. You adjust the dizzy position until the dimple on the flywheel lines up with the notch in the timing plate above.
For a test try blocking the hose coming from the oil cap to the bottom of the carby. The cap is also a PCV valve and if it's not clean it can allow excess air into the engine at idle.
My feeling is your points gap is not correct. It should be about the thickness of a hacksaw blade when open. The rubbing block on the points is notorious for rapid wear if hi temp grease hasn't been applied to the rotor lobes. A small gap will cause arcing under load and not provided sufficient dwell time for the coil to charge, resulting in a weak spark, missing, over fueling and lack of acceleration.
I also recommend you replace the plugs with Bosch Super 4's. They will last you a very long time and tend to be very forgiving with older worn engines.
Posted on Oct 11, 2008
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Firing Order: 1 - 2 - 3
Base Ignition Timing
Note: With the T terminal Shorted.5 +/- 2 deg BTDC
Ignition timing should be checked and adjusted, if necessary whenever spark plugs are replaced or any distributor maintenance is done. Ignition timing should be 3-7°BTDC at 750-850 RPM with the engine check connector terminal 11 (brown) shorted, Fig. 1. The engine check connector is located near the top of the transaxle.
Posted on Jan 21, 2009
You won't need to change the jets. We have had the Cb60 pumping 75- 90kW on the stock carby. Are you trying to increase performance there are better ways: e.g. RHF5 series turbo, lightened flywheel (4.5kg) with Mazda 121 clutch plate and 1600lb pressure plate. Swap in a G202 electronic dizzy& coil, and replace vacuum advance diaphragm.
Carby hat looks like this:
Posted on Feb 18, 2009
The location of the pump is on the left hand side of the engine when standing at the front of the car.
You will see (if you have aircon) two belts.
If you stand to the side of the car to look at the belts.
From memory the inner one (closest to the engine) drives the aircon compressor.
The outer one drives the water pump, you will see the pump belt wheel towards the back of the engine.
Getting into the pump is a bit tricky.
I basically unbolted the engine mount from the body which then allowed me to jack up the engine as I needed it to give me space to unbolt everything until the 3 water pump bolts can be seen.
Just make sure you know which bolts go back where.
From memory there were about 20 bolts to undo before I got to the water pump.
Aircon compressor bracket bolt I only loosened them from the engine not fully removed, the same with the alternator I only removed the adjusting bolt to remove the belt.
Oh I just thought of something to do before you remove the tension on the belts... loosen slightly the 4 small bolts that are on the wheel that bolts onto the water pump.
I think the only size sockets and spanners I used were 10, 12, 14 & 17.
It took me around 2 hours to get it all undone, and close to the same to put it all back together with the new pump.
It was kinda straight forward as you can see what you need to unbolt because you know what bit you need to get into.
I hope this helps a little, I am not sure if it is clear in the way I have written it. But feel free to ask any questions.
Posted on Mar 11, 2009
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