The first sign of the problem was a flat battery after few days of non-use.Further investigation indicates that the engine system circuit is not shutting down when the ignition is turned off.This is evident in that the relay is not powering down and resetting and as a result the engine management components continue to draw power.However, if the Engine System Relay (in the Main Fuse Box) is disconnected and reconnected, or the battery is momentarily disconnected, the circuit shuts down and remains shut down until the ignition switch is powered on.The problem will then reoccur when the ignition switch is turned off. The relay itself is OK, the issue is that the relay is still powered when the ignition switch is switched off.Whatever is activating that relay is not reset until the battery is momentarily disconnected or the relay itself is disconnected and reconnected.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Be worth checking the battery and connections etc. then confirming starter connections are good before checking any further. May be just a flat / faulty battery. Next would be to get the starter checked
This default is for the transmission operation. The diagnostics detected an out of range condition. It can be a wet electric connector for the shift solenoids, or the flat cable to the trans, or a weak ground. Even an early indication of problems with the Torque Converter lock-up.
The further check will involve taking electric resistance measurements when the connector plug is apart.
You can try using an electrical cleaner and reconnecting the plug. Check ground straps for corrosion.
Clear the computer and drive it for effect. If it comes back on you will need to investigate deeper.
Your computer has detected an error with the the MAF (mass Air Flow) sensor. In conjunction with the inlet air temperature (IAT) sensor the combination is often referred to as the Air Mass Meter. Are you experiencing a 'surge and slow' effect on engine speed at idle, maybe the idle is erratic and almost stalls at times? The MAF is found as part of the air ducting just after the air filter box. There is an electrical connection to the top of it. Disconnect and dismantle the duct assembly to free the MAF unit. The MAF is a heated foil that sits in the air stream. As intake air flows over the foil it has the the effect of cooling. The cooling achieved plus the measurement of the actual temperature of the air doing the cooling by the IAT gives enough information to the engine electronic control unit (ECU) to estimate the volume of air entering and to allow the ECU to set an appropriate injection cycle to provide the correct fuel air mix. Spray the MAS with electrical cleaner, this is non residue cleaner so do not use anything harsh like carb choke cleaner or oily like WD40. Try to make no physical contact with the foil. (the IAT is bead thermistor sat in the middle of wire near the MAS foil). Once everything has air dried reassemble and reconnect. If the fault has been fixed the error code will be removed after a few restarts.
If your battery light indicator went on it indicates that the battery is not charging because of either a dying battery or alternator or both! With the red battery indicator on, the battery will eventually drain out (especially if the alternator is faulty) to the point where it will not provide the required power to the car electrical system ... thus causing it to 'sputter' and eventually die out - a sure sign it that you cannot restart the motor due to a weak of flat battery! Hope it helps you understand the possible problem!
I had a similar issue and started to notice other electrical failures along with the gas gauge. My rear doors would not lock and my rear wiper stopped working. I started pulling fuses and relays to see if this would reset, no go. But then I hit the jackjpot. In the rear electrical panel, below all the fuses and relays is a 2" x 2" black plastic square with a big screw in it.
Remove the screw and pull evenly on the black square. This seems to be a major electrical hub for the car. I reconnected and all 3 of my issues disappeared...I read somewhere that a fix might be to disconnect the battery for a few minutes, which I guess re-sets some relays and circuits, but I guess this did the same thing. Good luck.
Try the fuel injection relay they are located under the hood. They blow out every few years on my Volvo. The car starts to quit all of the sudden. It is either red or green colored. It is located in the fuse box under the hood.
After a jump start because of no electrical power, the car will run rough for several days (expected) while it adjusts to your driving habits. I'm not sure about the gears, but I'd try to drive with it like that for a few days and see if it returns to normal.