Hello all, I need some help. I bought an 88 MR2 NA in mar and when I cranked it up I immediately new it had spun a bearing. I dropped the motor and disassembled it to a short block and had a reputable builder rebuild it. The #2 bearing had spun so new crank, rod and new rings. nothing else needed. I've reassembled and installed it and just can't get it to run properly. It takes forever to get it running and when it does it will not go above 500 rpm at idle or foot on the pedal. I've re-checked the timing and it is good, I've checked for spark at the plugs and they are good. I've checked the pulse to the injectors and each one is pulsing. I've checked to see if it is getting fuel and it is. I'm because it ran before and now it won't. I've also checked the air flow meter with a volt/ohm meter and it was good. Any and all responses/help will be appreciated. Thanks.
Before the throttle body you should have a air flow sensor . That sensor must face to the right direction try turning it 180 degrees and then try again. It must read the air going in to the motor if it facing the wrong way its reading air going out.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Not easy to get away with the crank get hot and most of the time
get marked or hot spots replacing bearing maybe a short time fix
ive done it .take emery. Cloth and shine the crank up as much as you can .if bearing spun forget it replace crank .good luck
No the oil clearance is correct for BOTH bearings @ .022 -.046 mm to try to get a true clearance measurement use a micrometer and measure in 4 places 90 degrees part this will check for out of round journal and compare to a factory journal size. there may be a .001 thousand or .002 thousand undersize bearing insert that will bring oil clearance in to specs. but most connecting rods get black from a spun bearing and they need to stay round so a inside micrometer is used to check that 10 times out 10 the connecting rod is replaced.
You\'ra asking about a 22 year old vehicle. I wouldn\'t take that for free & certainly not pay for it. Get something newer. Any vehicle over 12 to 14 years old, isn\'t even worth working on, unless you have decades of experience & do all your own work. If you know nothing about cars, you need something fairly new.
A spun bearing on a connecting rod usualy requires turning the crank. You can sometime get away with filling off the worst part, and using emmery cloth on it, but you need to have a mirometer to check the crank shaft. The connecting rod could also be damaged. It takes a good eye and a good hand stone to remove any burrs. You can then clean up the old bearing and shim it to test the bearing surface with bluing. Sorry this is rather complex, it just takes a lot to keep an engine togeather as several thousand RPM. It will take a good machinist to verify the repairs.
For 83-86 Camry, 87 corolla, 84-87 pickups and 4-runner: Code 12 = knock sensor or circuit (distributor or circuit on Cressida, Supra, and Celica 3S-GE)
87-90 Camry, all other models 88-90: Code 12 = Rpm signal/no NE or G signal to ECU within several seconds after engine is cranked.
All models from 1991 on: Code 12 = Rpm signal No "Ne" signal to the ECM within several seconds after the engine is cranked. No "G" signal to the ECM two times in Succession when engine speed is between 500 rpm and 4000 rpm.
Uhh there are no rods in the head. That dealer has a loose rod in his head maybe. The crank, rods and pistons are all in the bottom end of the engine. What it likely is is either a broken piston skirt or a spun rod bearing. Spun crank bearings are rare and sound deep. A spun rod bearing can be fairly quiet on idle depending how bad it is worn out, but it will be really loud on acceleration. Piston slap from a broken skirt can be pretty loud too but it mostly sounds like diesel rattle only a bit less. Some have described it as a loud pinging sound like detonation. Drain the oil and check for metal debri. If you can tilt the vehicle a bit for the oil to drain more towards the drain hole that could help. Then look for metal pieces and judge their size. There should be NO glitter whatsoever in engine oil, or any kind of debri. Now a rear end or transmission is different. Those always have a little metalic sheen to them. Best of luck.
hello, check for a damage crank position sensor this sensor sends the singnal to the dme (digital motor electronics ) to inject fuel and pulse the ing coils and will also start the fuel pump when it see a rpm above 500 this is a good tell sing if you crank the engine and the rpm does not jump there is a good chance that the crank posistion sensor is bad / the battery and engine light will be on untill the engine strarts