Question about Ford F-350

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Truck turning-over when jumping battery

I've got a 1978 Ford F-350 dump truck. I recently replaced the battery,solenoid, starter, flywheel, clutch, fuel pump, etc, etc etc. After replacing the battery, I have noticed that the battery seems to be discharging quickly when starting. I took the truck to the parts store to have the alternator tested (one of the only parts on the truck that has not been replaced). They concluded that the alternator neededreplaced, but in the course of the testing, my battery discharged, so Ineeded a jump. When the cable touched the pos. terminal, the truckbegan to turn over with no key in the ignition! The parts guy said itwas being caused by the starter solenoid, so I replaced it on the spot.The truck still needed a jump, so we tried it again and it worked fine.I drove home, turned the truck off, tried to restart, and the battery was totally dead. I put the battery charger on for 1/2 hr. and itstarted fine. Turned it off, and it restarted just fine. Once again,started fine. OK, I'll take it for a spin. I go to the parts storeagain ( cause I know if it fails here, there is a jump just inside). Iturn the truck off and restart, no problem. I try it again, the enginecranks once and the battery dies. I get the guy to come jump it again,and the truck begins to crank over again. What the heck! Nobody so farseems to know what could be causing this. The only thing between thebattery and the starter is the solenoid, but this is the 2nd brand newsolenoid I've installed on the truck. HELP!

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  • bls-13 Mar 20, 2009

    i have the same problem in my 79 ford f-250 . my truck died at a gas station (while it was running it just stopped so i tryed a few things there and figured out i had no spark towed home and i replaced the coil,silonoid, module and no have spark but i killed the battery trying it every time i tryed a new part (still clueless on what part went) im useing a jumper pack to jump me and it still wont start so i left it for an hour or so and went out put the jumper pack on and it started to turn over slowly and i had the keys in my hand??????

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If you replace the alternator im sure it will be fine while your driving the battery is not getting charged so thats the only thing that it could be

Posted on Oct 27, 2008

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1 Answer

Switch is on, turn key, no signal to starter, no click no contack


COMMON CAUSES OF NO-CRANK NO-START

Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

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1991 Ford F150 300 6 cylinder, The solenoid on the side wall near the battery is getting red hot and causing the wire to melt and smoke. What can be the cause? The solenoid was recently replaced and the...


Its likely your starter is bad and drawing too much power
from your battery to start .
Have advance auto check the amperage draw of the
starter while cranking , its free.

Aug 24, 2010 | 1991 Ford F150

1 Answer

My car does not start or turn over. The radio works and so does the fan.


When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

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I need to start a 1977 ford truck from under the hood...no key and cant get into cab...is this possible??460 1 ton dump truck....


Jump wires that would go to ignition, then jump wire from battery to solenoid to turn over.

Aug 27, 2009 | 1979 Ford F 350

1 Answer

4x4 1990 f150 will not start


Does the truck turn over but won’t start? If so there is a fusible link running from the starter solenoid behind the battery.
Also if you get nothing when you turn the key could be the solenoid. Its easy enough to jump the solenoid and check . Check all the fusible links coming off the power side of the solenoid and replace as needed.

bobby18rg@hotmail.com

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4 Answers

1978 Ford F-350 starter trouble


hi there this seems that you have some bad teeth on the flywheel the flywheel attaches to your motor and transmission the starter motor rotates and spinns over the motor to start if the teeth are gone in certain areas on the flywheel then the motor wont spin you need to remove the transmission and replace the flywheel ,once replaced then make shure the teeth on the starter motor are new not cammed over as you mentioned was the isue earlier hop this helps let me know ho this works with a vote of fixya thanks for using sutch a helpful website like fixya

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