Question about Ford Ranger
Tools needed to replace the starter on a 2000 ford ranger. how to replace a starter on a 2000 ford ranger
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 1988 ford ranger
Though it's a bit late from when this question was asked... But... I replaced my timing belt before it broke. Like anything else on my 88 ford ranger it was the easiest thing! If your really carefull and remove the plugs! You must remove the plugs because of the compression that's there waiting to fire when you next start the car. Dissasemble the fan, fan cover, and the pulley and the plastic cover. Not exactly in that order, just what you need to access the belt. Score or mark or paint where one or two teeth of each pulley is in reference to a non moving part of the truck (you can rotate the whole thing to a convient setup by hand) make sure when you rotate the assembly it feels somewhat free you can see and feel that there is no tension on the belt in ANY area. When you have all the marks set up loosen the bolt holding the tensioner use a bar to move the tensioner out of the way just enough then tighten the bolt on the tensioner, that will keep it locked open while you simply and carefully slide out the belt then slide in the new belt keeping the marks 'still', just go slow and keep your eyes open. Maybe I just got lucky...But the theory is sound and worked for me.
Probably could use a diming light to make sure but I don't have one and the truck still runs fine. Oh and by the way... if you ever need to replace the heater core it'll take you all of 20 mins if you have even the basic of abilities and the right screw driver :)
Posted on Jun 27, 2008
SOURCE: 99 ford ranger timing belt
Using the same 13mm socket, remove the bolt that you found under the a/c compressor. Look down and to the right of the bolt that you just removed, and you will see two more bolts. Both are 13mm. Easiest way that I found was to go under the driver side tire well, and use 3/8 extensions to reach the two bolts. Once removed, the bracket and the power steering pump should be moved to the driver's side of the frame, and the a/c placed on top of the p/s assy.
Remove the bolts (6mm) that hold the timing belt cover in place. Gently work your way around the cover, and push the tabs in to remove the cover.
Use an impact wrench and 7/8 SAE socket to remove the crankshaft pulley. A SOCKET WRENCH WILL NOT WORK. Once removed, gently tap the pulley with a 2x4 (yes the wooden board) to remove. If you have a gear puller, use that. I don't own one.
Remove the old belt. Now for the alignment. Crank - sprocket on bottom. Use the bolt you removed, and a ½ drive wrench, with the 7/8 socket to turn the crank. Once the keyway is at high noon, leave it alone. Next, move the oil pulley sprocket until the diamonds are aligned. This should put the oil pulley at high noon, also. The camshaft should have a diamond and a triangle. The diamond should go to high noon, and the triangle should align with a triangle on the plastic behind the sprocket. YOU SHOULD REALLY CONSIDER CLEANING THE ENTIRE AREA BEFORE ALIGNING THE SPROCKETS. You cannot align the camshaft without locating the two index (triangle and diamond) marks.
You will also notice a tensioner for the timing belt. You will need to loosen the tentioner with a 13mm and 17mm wrenches. Loosen, then use a cheeter bar bar to move the tentioner over. Lock in place by tightening the tentioner bolts. Place the belt on the crankshaft, move to the oil pulley, then to the cam pulley. Release tentioner, then check the alignment. If correct, reverse the above removal plan, and you should be good.
Don't buy the Haynes manual. I fought with the instructions for this project, and the picture for the timing belt project doesn't show the two indexes for the cam sprocket.
Also, while you are doing this, you should replace the antifreeze if you haven't in the past two years.
Best of luck.
Posted on Jul 13, 2008
the open pipe that you took the hose off of is the thermostat housing, you will need to remove this to reveal the thermostat, make sure you use a new gasket with sealant when reinstalling thermostat housing to prevent leaks and dont over tighten the bolts,run both bolts down as far as you can before final tightning
Posted on Dec 26, 2008
allow the system to cool down
take radiator cap loose to release pressure
once pressure is released tighten cap
loosen clamps on the heater hoses in the engine compartment on the pass. side of firewall.
plug or cap off the heater core tubes to prevent spillage when you pull it into the truck
place a trash bag on floorboard in case spillage occurs
remove the five screws holding the heatre core access cover, three on top and two on bottom
carefully pull heater core back and down and remove it from the dash
install is reverse
Hope this helps
Posted on Mar 29, 2009
SOURCE: 2001 Ford Ranger V6 timing chain
The Ford motors are pretty good. I had 280K on a 2.9 V-8 that only needed the oil changed every 3K. Unless you have fluctuatuation in the timing then you should be ok.
These engines use a chain rather than a belt and have excellent life.
Rich RPM Northwest
Posted on Jul 01, 2009
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