Question about 1998 Ford Ranger SuperCab
Had the radiater flushed at a mechanic garage. Still hear water running through the heater when engine starts.
It's not uncommon fot it to take several fill ups to get all the air out of the cooling system and the heater is usually the main culprit. I always turn the heater on full blast when I refill a cooling system and run the engine long enough to make sure the coolant is circulating in the heater. This is your most likely culprit.Have you checked the coolant level in the overfow bucket? It should be at the full line on the side. If not, then top it up and replace the cap. Even if it is full replace the cap but leave it loose. Drive with the cap loose for a few days and the heater on full. Check the coolant level daily and top up as necessary. After a few days you should have continuous heat. Then you can tighten the overflow cap. Hope this helps.
Posted on Feb 20, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 99 ford ranger timing belt
Using the same 13mm socket, remove the bolt that you found under the a/c compressor. Look down and to the right of the bolt that you just removed, and you will see two more bolts. Both are 13mm. Easiest way that I found was to go under the driver side tire well, and use 3/8 extensions to reach the two bolts. Once removed, the bracket and the power steering pump should be moved to the driver's side of the frame, and the a/c placed on top of the p/s assy.
Remove the bolts (6mm) that hold the timing belt cover in place. Gently work your way around the cover, and push the tabs in to remove the cover.
Use an impact wrench and 7/8 SAE socket to remove the crankshaft pulley. A SOCKET WRENCH WILL NOT WORK. Once removed, gently tap the pulley with a 2x4 (yes the wooden board) to remove. If you have a gear puller, use that. I don't own one.
Remove the old belt. Now for the alignment. Crank - sprocket on bottom. Use the bolt you removed, and a ½ drive wrench, with the 7/8 socket to turn the crank. Once the keyway is at high noon, leave it alone. Next, move the oil pulley sprocket until the diamonds are aligned. This should put the oil pulley at high noon, also. The camshaft should have a diamond and a triangle. The diamond should go to high noon, and the triangle should align with a triangle on the plastic behind the sprocket. YOU SHOULD REALLY CONSIDER CLEANING THE ENTIRE AREA BEFORE ALIGNING THE SPROCKETS. You cannot align the camshaft without locating the two index (triangle and diamond) marks.
You will also notice a tensioner for the timing belt. You will need to loosen the tentioner with a 13mm and 17mm wrenches. Loosen, then use a cheeter bar bar to move the tentioner over. Lock in place by tightening the tentioner bolts. Place the belt on the crankshaft, move to the oil pulley, then to the cam pulley. Release tentioner, then check the alignment. If correct, reverse the above removal plan, and you should be good.
Don't buy the Haynes manual. I fought with the instructions for this project, and the picture for the timing belt project doesn't show the two indexes for the cam sprocket.
Also, while you are doing this, you should replace the antifreeze if you haven't in the past two years.
Best of luck.
Posted on Jul 13, 2008
SOURCE: ford ranger truck overheating
I have had this happen with my ranger. Changed everything I could to try to fix the over heating. It turned out that I had a small leak in my head gasket and it was allowing exsaust gas to go into the cooling system witch was over pressurizing it. Also the air from the exsaust will heat up much faster than liquid making your thermostat to read hot and will not be able to blow hot air in the cab because there is no liquid going to the heater core. This happened to me when my blet came off and I tryed to make it home. If you had it over heat for a long peirod of time it may have ripped the head gasket.
Posted on Feb 21, 2009
allow the system to cool down
take radiator cap loose to release pressure
once pressure is released tighten cap
loosen clamps on the heater hoses in the engine compartment on the pass. side of firewall.
plug or cap off the heater core tubes to prevent spillage when you pull it into the truck
place a trash bag on floorboard in case spillage occurs
remove the five screws holding the heatre core access cover, three on top and two on bottom
carefully pull heater core back and down and remove it from the dash
install is reverse
Hope this helps
Posted on Mar 29, 2009
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