Changed rear rotors and brake pads at 25k, Compressed pistons as I was turning them clockwise to fully retract them. Put new rotors on with new pas tightened everything back up and not they seem to not release and overheat, what is the problem and what haven't I done right. Backyard mechanic and have changed hundreds of brakes without this problem
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Re: Rear brakes overheating
Just a backyard mechanic myself, so we both know that the calipers float around on the bolts that hold them on. I know if the bolts dont slide in easyley they should be cleaned up with fine grit sand paper and a thin film of grease on them. Pry your shoes back and see if your caliper slides back and forth easyley. The calipers have to slide back and forth (float) or the pads will get hot and wear out prematurely. Let me know how this turns out.
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Remove the caliper mounting bolts and remove the caliper. Replace brake pads as necessary. Special tool is required to retract caliper piston to fit over new pads. (see picture below) Retract piston in caliper using special tool to rotate clockwise and make sure the notch in the piston is aligned properly so the tab on the inner pad will fit in properly. Reinstall caliper assembly and caliper mounting bolts.
This is not easy. Look at the Cl brake blog by P48. You can get the rear caliper piston in the fully retracted position with a home-made tool to twist it clockwise. It is like a large "X". Make sure it is retreating into the body of the caliper which will allow the "thick" new pads to sandwich onto your (new) rotor.
Clockwise-on the rear
I would open the bleeder valve first, push piston in,then screw parking brake in.
You need to flush your brakes every couple years,anyway.
After you install new pads,ratchet brake up by hand.
YOU NEED TO REMOVE THE REAR WHEELS.REMOVE PARKING BRAKE CABLE CLIP FROM CALIPER DISCONNECT PARKING BRAKE CABLE.HOLD THE GUIDE PIN WITH A BACK UP WRENCH AND REMOVE UPPER MOUNTING BOLT FROM THE BRAKE CALIPER.SWING THE CALIPER DOWNWARD AND REMOVE THE BRAKE PADS.TO INSTALL NEW PADS.YOU HAVE TO RETRACT PISTON INTO THE HOUSING BY ROTATING THE PISTON CLOCKWISE.PUT EVERYTHING BACK VISA VERSA.
If its the front brakes you are working on and the piston won't retract into the caliper then you need a new caliper, or both actually. Calipers need to be replaced in pairs. If you are working on the rear then you need a special tool to turn the piston back into the caliper. you can get the rear disc brake tool at any auto parts store. Turn the piston clockwise to retract it, and pay attention to the little spots cut out of the piston that the tool grabs to turn it. They need to be at the top and bottom of the piston once you fully retract it or the little pin at the bottom of the inside brake pad wont sit against the piston. And once again if it still wont retract then you need to replace both calipers. Once you are finished you need to pump up the brake pedal and then pull up the parking brake lever and release it 10 to 20 times to adjust the piston.
you must spread the pads out....do this with a wedge-shaped tool and use lever action to push the caliper pistons back to the fully-retracted positions in the cylinders. The pistons are currently in the position where the last pads had allowed them to extend to. It is good practice to (excercise) the pistons at pad change time by moving the pistons back and forth slowly to remove any oxidation at the cylinder walls, but never allow pistons to fully extend...prevent this by using a piece of wood to act as the thickness of one rotor and 2 pads. You extend the pistons by using the car's brake pedal, then retract them with the wedge.