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1994 chevy s10 4.3 replaced cap rotor wires and plugs, ran for a few minutes but nothing now

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The metal contact on the end of the rotor may have bent or broke off, ive seen this happen with poor quality or miss alighned parts

Posted on Feb 19, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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fastboyz
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SOURCE: Engine Wire diagram for S10

i dont know of any free wiring diagrams but alldata.com is where the pros go to get ours

Posted on Sep 15, 2008

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SOURCE: 89 chevy s10 blazer puff smoke out tailpipe when 1st started

A puff of smoke when you start up indicates worn valve seals.That's why all your work didn't fix the problem and it doesn't show a code. It's a pain in the --- job that requires some specialized tools so I guess it depends on how bad it bugs you,if oyu want to fix it.

Posted on Jul 13, 2009

motor1258
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SOURCE: I have a 1991 Chevy S10 2.5 L4, do you have a

firing order 1342, distributor, clockwise rotation.966cbd7.jpg

Posted on Aug 26, 2009

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SOURCE: STUCK IN 4 WHEEL DRIVE MODE

change the trasmison

Posted on Dec 05, 2009

Molson02536
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SOURCE: 1991 chevy s10 4.3 v6 new rotor and cap new spark

Check your knock sensor, and timing.

The distributor is controlled by the computer and springs, I can't recall but I don't remember seeing springs in there. Regardless, check anyways to see if there is any binding to your counter weights in the distributor.

Start with finding out why your check engine light is coming on, this way there is no expensive guessing work. Here is a link for you to retrieve the DTC codes and post me back. Be glad to help you get your S-10 running 100% again soon. eek.gif

http://www.troublecodes.net/GM/
Recheck your timing and you'd notice more difference if you increased your static timing advance from the stock setting of 10 Deg BTDC to 15 deg BTDC or so. Be sure when you adjust timing to disable the ESC circuit according to the manual. Otherwise the timing will be off scale and you won't even be able to see where it is with a timing lite.

The connector you're looking for is located in the passenger footwell, sometimes covered by the carpet/floor mat. It is a black connector, that has a tan/black wire in each side. Disconnect this wire and you will be able to see the base timing.

The ECM will control the timing with that wire connected. When it is disconnected the timing advance is controled strictly by the ICM (Ignition Control Module) located on the base of the dizzy.

How to set:
The vehicle emission control information label, which is found underhood, will often contain specifications or procedures for checking and adjusting timing that have been updated during production.

Set the parking brake and block the drive wheels, then warm the engine to normal operating temperature. Shut the engine OFF and connect the a timing light to the No. 1 spark plug (right front 2.8L engine, left front 4.3L engine or front plug on in-line engines):

If using a non-inductive type, connect an adapter between the No. 1 spark plug and the spark plug wire; DO NOT puncture the spark plug wire, for this will allow a voltage arc.

If using an inductive type, clamp it around the No. 1 spark plug wire.
If using a magnetic type, place the probe in the connector located near the damper pulley; this type must be used with special electronic timing equipment. Do not under any circumstances pierce the insulation of a spark plug wire in order to connect the timing light.

Clean off the timing marks, then label the pulley or damper notch and the timing scale with white chalk or paint for better visibility. If the timing notch on the damper or pulley is not visible from the top, the crankshaft should be bumped around using the starter or turned using a wrench on the front pulley bolt, in order to bring the mark to an accessible position.


Model vehicles equipped with EST, the electronic spark timing must be disabled or bypassed to prevent the control module from advancing timing while you are attempting to set it. This would obviously lead to an incorrect base timing setting.

There are 2 possible methods of disabling the EST system, depending on the type of engine:

On 2.5L engines, ground the "A" and "B" terminals on the ALDL connector under the dash before adjusting the timing.

On all other engines using the EST distributor, disengage the timing connector wire. On a few of the earlier model vehicles, the 4-terminal EST connector must be disengaged from the distributor, but most later model vehicles are equipped with a single wire timing bypass connector.

On these later model vehicles the bypass wire is usually a tan wire with a black stripe. This wire usually breaks out of the wiring harness conduit adjacent to the distributor, but on some vehicles it may break out of a taped section just below the heater case in the passenger compartment.

Start the engine, then check and adjust the idle speed, as necessary. The idle speed must be properly set to prevent any centrifugal advance of timing in the distributor.

Aim the timing light at the timing marks. Be careful not to touch the fan, which may appear to be standing still. Keep your clothes and hair along with the timing light's wires clear of the fan, belts and pulleys. If the pulley or damper notch isn't aligned with the proper timing mark, the timing will have to be adjusted.

TDC or Top Dead Center corresponds to 0° mark on the scale. Either B, BTDC, or Before Top Dead Center, may be shown as BEFORE on the scale, while A, ATDC or After Top Dead Center, may be shown as AFTER.

Loosen the distributor base clamp locknut. You can buy special wrenches which make this task a lot easier on certain models. Turn the distributor slowly to adjust the timing, holding it by the body and not the cap. Turn the distributor in the direction of rotor rotation to ******, and against the direction to advance.

Once the timing is properly set, hold the distributor to keep it from the turning and tighten the locknut. Check the timing again after finishing with the nut in case the distributor moved as you tightened it.
If applicable, remove the plug and connect the distributor vacuum hose.
Shut off the engine and reconnect the EST wire (if equipped), then disconnect the timing light and tachometer. biggrin.gif

Also you may want to inspect the EGR to see if it's stuck, which may be causing our issue when the engine is under load.

Posted on Apr 19, 2010

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1 Answer

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Just get standred plugs wire plugs arn't going to improve the proformance .
If you want to do something that will help replace the wires cap and rotor you will feel a differance and generaly run better.

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After changing the distributor cap rotor button plugs and wires due to a miss the car cranked up and ran 15 minutes then shut off. i now have no spark from the cap to the plug wires. any ideas?


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1994 chevy s 10


The couple across the street from where I live, had the same problem. He also changed plugs and wires and even the coil. I told him to replace the rotor bug and distributor cap and all started running smoothly again. Looking at the bug and cap nothing looked bad other than a little wear. It even checked out using a meter. Only thing I could think of was that there may have been some hairline crake robbing the spark and causing it to missfire.... Don't really know.

Jun 11, 2008 | 1994 Chevrolet S-10

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