Question about Fiat Pininfarina
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
hi check your thermostat, waterpump, radiator and cap, hoses, fan if you can see a visible leak then i can talk you through a solution if its not leaking try flushing radiator, change the cap, make sure your fan is working, make sure your water pump is working u can test by removing the radiator cap with the engine running you should be able to see the coolant flowing not just sitting still if you need more assistance let me know
Posted on Jun 04, 2008
I'd like to ask first, what service did you have done?
My best suggestion to you would be to have a automotive place check your starter, it sounds like you are having a problem with the starter itself, not the battery, not the alternator. I recently had a similar issue a few years ago on a 1994 chevy cavalier. Starts just fine, but once in a while I'd turn the key, "click" and the engine would not even turn over, trying it a second time got it started. Eventually, it got so bad, it never started again. I took it to a auto parts store that offered a free electrical system diagnostic service. They told me that I had a "dead spot" in the starter that if the starter stopped spinning in just that spot, it would not work when I tried to start the car.
If you are not hearing a "click" but you are hearing the starter "whirrr" then it's a problem with the starter solenoid. This part pushes a gear into the flywheel of the engine to start turning the engine over. So (because it's hard to type sounds) the correct sounds you should hear when you turn the key are..."click"(followed immediatly by) "rrrr...rrrr...rrr...rrr" and of course "vrooooommm". If you hear...(no click), "whirrrrrrr"(sounds like an electrical motor spinning) then nothing else. That is a problem with the starter. If you hear, "click" then nothing else, it is a problem with the starter it self or the wiring to the starter.
Please, excuse the very descriptive "sounds" as it is the best way to describe what you SHOULD be hearing every time you start the car.
Some less common problems include the voltage regulator, starter relay, and corroded or loose wiring to and from the battery and/or the starter. Checking wires and any electrical repairs can be dangerous if you do not know what you are doing and I have to ask you to talk to your local shop if you have any questions about fixing the problem. If you want to do the work yourself, I'd recommend buying (autoparts store) or borrowing (some libraries) a Chilton or Haynes Manual for your specific make, model, and year car. They've saved me thousands in repairs so far b/c I like woking on my own vehicles.
I hope that I could help you narrow down your problem so you can look up the repair and parts online. Or if you do take your car to the shop, let them check these parts first for the most likely source of the problem. Good luck, and if you still have questions, please write a comment and I will try to respond with a more specific suggestion. Don't forget to rate my solution! Thank you.
Posted on Jan 11, 2009
1990 22re same problem surge when pedal was depressed thought it was booster or check valve still didnt fix it i even put a brand new booster on it just to make sure still no fix it finnally went away on its own for about a month now it does it just sitting at an idle with out the brake pedal depressed traced all vaccum lines no problem there and still have no clue
Posted on Feb 21, 2009
Best suggestion I can make is make sure the power steering fluid is in the full range (either hot if you've been driving more than 20 miles, or cold if the engine has been off). Always check the fluid with the engine off. If the fluid smells burnt, have a mechanic check the power steering pump for damage. Also check around the area for any leaks.
Another thing to look at is the wiring and fuses for the power steering and speedometer. Try to follow them to see if there's any bare, rubbing, broken, or loose wires. Electrical systems are a pain to diagnose specifically, and it may be better to have a mechanic look at it for you but fuses are easy to check.
Posted on Mar 01, 2009
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following are the general instructions on the start of diagnosing any
electronically controlled engine or transmission problem.
The engine and the automatic transmission (transmission control is only for automatics, engine is still computer controlled no matter the transmission type) in this vehicle are computer controlled and in most cases when a fault occurs a fault code is stored in the memory of the computer control module. There are exceptions to this, such as the Mass Airflow Meter and fuel pressure problems. What must be done is to have all the basic testing done such as a scan of the system for fault codes as well as a check with a live data scanner tool for engine functions that are not within range of normal, a trained technician is required to know what is correct and what isn't, then based on careful diagnostics done from a factory repair manual the correct part is replaced or the wiring repaired or the computer replaced (known as the PCM or ECM,ECU), which is very rarely the problem. Other basic checks must be done as well such as mechanical problems with the engine as well as engine state of tune and mileage on the engine. The transmission can have mechanical issues as well such as no gear engagement at all or a failed pump or other pressure related problems. Also engine mechanical problems can and do cause many drive-ability related problem such as rough idle and other symptoms.
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