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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
yes you have to drop the tank. you will also need a fuel line tool to unhook the fuel lines. before you drop the tank see if tou can reach and wiggle the electrical connection on the top of the tank. these pumps have a pigtail issue. please rate
Posted on Dec 08, 2008
The best thing to do is to buy a Chilton,s repair manual. It has step by step procedures. You can get one at most auto parts stores. They coast anywhere from $10-$30 dollars.
Posted on Mar 16, 2009
Begin by spraying all attachment bolts with a good solvent, then remove fill neck at the top. (where you put gas in) Disconnect harness, remove attachment bolts part way, support tank with a jack. disconnect one side and let the tank come down a bit, then disconnect fuel and vent lines etc. Label them so you know where to put them back. (Many have plastic couplers for which parts stores sell a tool to remove them without damage...have that tool on hand before you begin) Remove other fastener and lower tank to the ground. It's best to have the tank nearly empty to begin, but if not, it really isn't too bad coming down. Definitely empty it and clean the insides out before putting it back up though.The pump itself is held in either by a collar that is turned and locks in place or a "c" clip around the perimeter. Make sure that you clean the "o" ring under the mount plate and put it back on re-assembly. Use care when removing and re-installing pump that you do not damage the float arm or you will have a gas gauge problem later.
No smoking within at least fifty feet and no electric power tools or drop lights. Gasoline is relatively safe to work around as long as there are no sparks or open flames anywhere nearby. If they are, it is very dangerous.
Posted on Sep 06, 2009
If you are set on using this engine for its increased power and fuel efficiency, the only way you will realize these benefits is by changing the ECM/PCM from the engine donor vehicle to yours, put the 90 model engine's throttle body back on it, use the engine wire harness from the donor vehicle--in other words, the engine has to think it's still in the Caprice, and the only way to do this is to put the Caprice electronics and fuel management system (throttle body) back on it. If you have to modify the throttle linkage, the kick-down/TV cable, to make it work, then do it. Also, you will have to put an Oxygen sensor from a 90 Caprice into the manifold/collector/crossover pipe of your vehicle, and not one for the 87 truck. If it wont fit, plug the factory hole on your truck's Oxygen sensor location with a threaded plug using high-temp thread sealant, cut/weld in a proper-threaded orifice for the Oxygen sensor from a 90 Caprice. If the Caprice had two Oxygen sensors, you will have to put one on each cyclinder bank's exhaust outputs.
Swaps such as these are great if all the details are attended to, but headaches if you just try to throw and go.
If you do all this, the codes will not come back after you reset them, the engine will run great, you will have better power and greater fuel economy (the Caprice and the Blazer weigh within a couple hundred pounds of each other), and you will have a 1987 K5 Blazer which "thinks" it's a 1990 Caprice.
And remember when buying engine parts in the future to tell the counter guy "It's for my other car--the 1990 Caprice."
You get less **** out them that way.
Posted on Feb 15, 2010
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