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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: w reg landrover, freelander
This fuse is no.2 in the fuse box above the pedals and it should be a 15 amp.If you plugged a trailer in then check those electrics or check your brake light switch on the brake pedal.
Posted on Nov 30, 2008
This is how I did it, 2003 TD4 Kalahari automatic, vented discs (earlier models have different size discs and calipers), without reference to any manual, so follow at your own risk if you feel confident and have the correct tools. It is a caliper off job, so common sense and strong wrist (to undo and retighten bolts is important). Check disc wear at the same time, to reduce the hassle of having to do it all again if the discs are shot.
Prepare a piece of stout cord. Slacken wheel nuts, jack car up and support on axle stands, remove wheel and site under front sill as precaution against axle stand/jack collapse and to clear out of area of operation, use 15mm socket to remove the two caliper fixing bolts on inside of hub. Ease caliper away from hub and tie up with cord (to reduce stress on brake hose. Remove clips from through pins and remove anti-squeal shim. Use pry bar between pads to open caliper fully (not recommended if you are going to re-fit same pads), remembering to seal reservoir to prevent fluid leakage. Try fitting new pads to caliper (I had to grind one pads metal lugs slightly to allow fitting to stainless sliders - another had already been machined by the manufacturer). Fit shims as per instructions with new pads. Re-fit anti-squeal shim & through pins and pin clips. Re-assemble in reverse sequence to dis-assembly. Car passed MOT ok, with good braking performance. NB it is important to check disc thickness. which my MOT station said is a minimum of 18mm, mine were at 19+mm after 40k.
The CD service manual is available on ebay for less than £5.00, so it might be worth checking that first, as I make no assertion that my way was the correct method, just that it worked.
Hope that helps.
Posted on Apr 29, 2009
as simple as i can put it here goes , you will need to remove rear door panel using a flat blade tool, start at top and work your way round to hinge side,peel back the weather sheild about six inches down all along the top edge , this will reveal the mounting points on the back of the rear panel, leave the removable ends attached to the window guard and line up against rear panel, check which hole's need to be used and attach brackets to these points using bolts supplied in kit or what ever you have to hand. once mounted you can pull guard from brackets and put to one side , next is the rear panel if you place panel face down revealing back it will show two ovalish shape's highlighted by faint outline , this is where you will need to cut and file . when that is finished you can reinstall rear panel on to door, install rear guard and locking bolts. it always handy to have spare clips for door panels as the become brittle with age.
Posted on Sep 04, 2009
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