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Hi Chris, The brake system is basically very simple. If you have duel braking on your vehicle, the usual method is having two brakes operate on the front with for example the left rear and the other system will also operate two front and the right rear. This type of system will have two calipers on each of the front wheels. The tandem system works in a slightly different way, having the forward part of the cylinder pressurizing the rear brakes and the rear part of the cylinder pressurizing the front. I think under the circumstances you are describing, I would have a friend sit inside and pump the brakes repeatedly until the system becomes pressurized (maybe twenty thirty times of pumping the brake pedal) and then ask him or her to keep it pushed firmly down until you find out where its leaking. The amount of brake fluid you report having been sed would indecate a severe leakage. Check the lower parts of the rear wheels for signs of leaking wheel cylinders and then dito for the front wheels. Any signs of wetness at these areas and along the brake system (the plumbing or pipe work) will indicate where the leakage is. If you cannot identify a wheel which is leaking, carefully inspect around and blow the master cylinder and if this no sign go along the fluid lines, taking special note of where the damaged pipe was repaired. If there is a blockage in the line, air may be trapped at that point causing difficulty in pressurizing. Once the place of leakage has been identified it must be attended to before bleeding the system. When bleeding, begin with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder, and work your way back to the master cylinder one wheel at a time, until you reach the closest.Keep in mind that you may find it required to pump the pedal many many times before opening the bleed nipple.Regards John
This is bizarre... I'm suspecting dirt in line(s). Are you bleeding correctly? Starting w/ Right rear, left rear, right front, then left front. You might try using a power bleeder also. A possible long shot, is brake proportioning valve sticking.
When you opened the bleeder screws to the rear brakes, did you completely remove the screws ? Might also want to perform a complete visual inspection of the brake lines from the rear to the front and master cylinder.
How are you performing the bleeding process ?
First fill the brake resivior then have someone pump pedal three times and hold pedal down, while you start at the right rear wheel open the bleeder screw and let fluid out and then close make sure who ever pumps pedal keeps preasure on it as you open bleeder because pedal will drop they must push and follow pedal, after you clsoe bleeder you then have them pump pedal again three times you will do this four to five times on each wheel make sure to check fluid level after each wheel is bleed, after the left rear you move to left rear then right front then last is left front, hope this helps.
you shouldnt have to bleed anything when just doing brakes,unless you opened the bleeders and this did not have to be done, if this is what was done then bleeding is needed,close all bleeders, have someone in car, pump pedal 3 times and hold down open bleeder tell them to keep preasure on pedal as it goes down then close bleeder and then tell them to pump again and hold do this a few times on each side starting at the right rear wheel then to left rear then right front then left front always keep an eye on fluid level in master cylinder always keep it full, dont let it empty, bleed all wheels,
you have a leak. fill the brake reservoir and have a friend pump the brakes while you hop under and look for fluid coming out. if you see nothing then check your wheel cylinders in the rear brakes for wetness. if nothing there, check the calipers for leaks. on the off chance you still have not found any leak, try bleeding the brakes for air (shoot the bleeder screws with PB blaster 24 hours before trying to open them, they may still break anyway so be gentle) and if the pedal still doesn't get better then you need a new master cylinder. A Haynes manual will tell you how to replace that unit.
You need to bleed the whole system. Once this is done it should work better. Make sure you are not low on brake fluid. If the front brakes are disk brakes and the rear are drum breaks, the front really does most of the stopping, the back jjust keeps the car from spinning or swaying. But the main stopping power is in the front breaks. They need to be bled correctly, make sure brake fluid is up and make sure emergency break is not engaged. The emergency break uses a lever and cable to activate the rear brakes. The emergency breaks don't run off brake fluid...
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