Hello there :)(: LONG DAY HERE,,
SPENT 6 HOURS CHANGING MY thermostat housing ON MY 2001 FORD EXPLORER XLS...
I had to remove a fuel line just above the housing, so I can access the last bolt:(
*Which was the hardest part of my whole project)... Thought everything was good once I reassembled everything,, but I drove 20 miles... & now my truck smells like fuel (& I went through 10 dollars worth of gas)
Was I supposed to depressurize something somewhere, or what?? I HAVE NO CLUE!!
***All I can say is that I SAW "fuel shooting out of a breather hose from intake to air filter,, if that makes any sense??
AND: Is it going to cost me a fortune now that I drove the 20 miles???? Since it seems like GAS IS EVERYWHERE NOW**
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on the v6 models the coolant sensor is just beside the upper radiater hose at the thermostat housing. on the 2.2 four cylinder thecoolant sensor is located at the lower left corner of the cylinder head, on the thermostat housing. on the 2.4 it is at end of upper radiater hose at thermostat housing. be very careful if you damage this part, it will mess up entire fuel injection system. yes you can change it yourself, but handle it with care. when putting new one on wrap the threads with teflon sealing tape to prevent leakage and corrosion. good-day !
First one is next to thermostat housing or where your upper radiator hose connects to the intake.
The second is behind the driver side head. A word of warning i spent hours on one of my f150s argueing with the dealer and parts houses telling me that they all have both. In the end at ford they finally conceded that in fact they all dont have both. The one behind the head is very weak compared to 99% of the sensors you put in. Do not over tighten this sensor you will shear the top right off of it and will be out looking for another.
Drain the coolant from your Explorer into an adequate
container by opening the drain plug at the bottom of the radiator. Save
the coolant for reuse if it is relatively new and clean.
Remove the negative battery cable from the battery if your
Explorer has a 2.9-, 3.0-, 4.0- or 5.0-liter engine. This step is not
necessary for 2.3- and 2.5-liter engines.
Follow the upper radiator hose to the front driver's side of
the intake manifold, where it meets the engine. This is where the
thermostat housing on your Ford Explorer is located. If necessary,
remove the air cleaner duct for easy access to the housing.
Loosen the clip on the end of the radiator hose and pull the
hose off the thermostat housing. Use a 10mm wrench or socket to remove
the two retaining bolts on the thermostat housing cover. Remove the
Note the position of the thermostat before removal. Pull out
the old thermostat. Seat the new thermostat inside the housing in the
same position as the old one, spring-side facing into the engine.
Install new gasket over the thermostat.
Reattach the thermostat housing cover and the radiator hose.
Reinstall the air cleaner duct if removed earlier. Fill the radiator
with reserve or new coolant. Start your Explorer and run with the heater
blowing until the engine gets warm. Check for leaks.
Have you tried tracking the top radiator hose back to the engine? Most radiator hoses connect to the thermostat housing. I am not certain on this model but it is definitely a way to go about finding it. If this fails then you should check the owners manual or repair manual for the location.
Follow the upper radiator hose from the radiator to the engine and there is a housing that houses the thermostat. Take it off and when you reinstall the thermostsat, make sure the spring goes toward the engine.
The thermostat is located on the motor block under the three bolt flang that the top rediator hose connects to. Remove the three 10MM bolts and the thermostat can be removed for replacement.
1. Remove the air cleaner air duct from the throttle body and air cleaner.
2. Follow the upper radiator hose to the engine to locate the thermostat housing. The housing is located at the front of the intake manifold.
3. Loosen the hose clamp, then detach the hose from the fitting. This can be difficult. If it's stuck, grasp with a pair of adjustable pliers and twist to break the seal. Then pull it off.
4. Remove the bolts and detach the housing cover. Be prepared some coolant may leak out as the gasket seal is broken. Remove the thermostat.
5. Install the new o-ring onto the thermostat (no gasket is needed) and install the thermostat into the intake manifold with the spring side pointing toward the engine.
6. Make sure the air release valve is in the up 12 o'clock position. Install housing cover and bolts. Reattach the hose fitting and tighten the hose clamp. Fill the cooling system with a 50/50 mix of coolant and water, and burp the system.
i hope you didnt buy a universal performance moduel. i have removed so many of these scams. they cause drivabilty problems. all it is is a resistor changing the value of the signal. this is not a good idea. there are legit companys selling moduels or programers that do work. but from the one i have seen they dont help that much.