Question about 1992 Ford Ranger

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What is the specific ignition control module number for a 4-cylinder, 2.3 liter Ford Ranger?

I want to make sure I purchase the correct ignition control module (or pack) for my 1992 Ford Ranger, which has the 4-cylinder, 2/3 liter engine.

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  • dgskroch
    dgskroch Feb 21, 2012

    Most for module's will have a color code on the back where the wiring goes in, blue.yellow,green etc. Take your engine size and Vin # along to partsstore and old module. Do not use any other color.

  • larrydblack Feb 21, 2012

    This is excellent advice and will definitely help insure that the correct part is bought. I sincerely appreciate the response!

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  • Ford Master
  • 76,164 Answers

I recommened only the factory part for this. You can buy it from most full service part stores and not just the Ford dealer. The part is
MOTORCRAFT Part # DY959 [ICM] (Ignition control module) $176.79
You can also mail order it from a site I use called rockauto.com the price given above is from that site.

Posted on Feb 19, 2012

Testimonial: "The information was good; however, after some exhaustive research (mostly thru Auto Zone), I found the ignition coil for a lot less $ at AdvanceAutoParts.com. It's not Motorcraft but it is OEM. Thanks for your response!"

  • yadayada
    yadayada Feb 20, 2012

    Larry
    I don't think you understand what "OEM" is, it means "Original Equipment Manufacturer" in a Ford product that is Motorcraft, in GM car or truck it is ACDelco, in Chrysler cars and trucks it is Mopar. It is not any other brand of part other than the above OEM brand names. The reason that I DO NOT RECOMMEND any other part be used but the Motorcraft OEM is that I have seen many problems over the years with Ignition Control Modules from other sources like Autozone and Advance, they are cheaply made and do not have the long life of the Motorcraft OEM replacement part. This is not true of all parts, but with this part it is. Suit yourself here let cheap be your guide and good luck when the truck starts acting up in a year or so. I worked as a Factory certified Ford master electronic engine control repair and diagnosis technician for almost 20 years, so I have tons of experience to back me upon this, it is more than just an "opinion". I have nothing to gain by recommending (I am retired) you spend the extra money on the Motorcraft OEM ICM, just trying to save you a headache down the road. The original module lasted 20 years right, does that tell you something?

  • yadayada
    yadayada Feb 20, 2012

    Larry
    I don't think you understand what "OEM" is, it means "Original Equipment Manufacturer" in a Ford product that is Motorcraft, in GM car or truck it is ACDelco, in Chrysler cars and trucks it is Mopar. It is not any other brand of part other than the above OEM brand names. The reason that I DO NOT RECOMMEND any other part be used but the Motorcraft OEM is that I have seen many problems over the years with Ignition Control Modules from other sources like Autozone and Advance, they are cheaply made and do not have the long life of the Motorcraft OEM replacement part. This is not true of all parts, but with this part it is. Suit yourself here let cheap be your guide and good luck when the truck starts acting up in a year or so. I worked as a Factory certified Ford master electronic engine control repair and diagnosis technician for almost 20 years, so I have tons of experience to back me upon this, it is more than just an "opinion". I have nothing to gain by recommending (I am retired) you spend the extra money on the Motorcraft OEM ICM, just trying to save you a headache down the road. The original module lasted 20 years right, does that tell you something?

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SOURCE: 1991 ford ranger not getting any spark

probably the coil , but have your alternator checked first

Posted on Oct 07, 2008

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SOURCE: 1992 ford ranger

If this speratic problem seams to happen most when it's raining or damp, it is a shorting master contol that is to blame. The master control mother board is located on the firewall. Over time, the moisture seal on the cover fails and the motherboard gets damp and meny false signals are sent. This can even happen if the truck is off and key is not in the ignition (this mother board will alwas have power going to it as long as the battery is connected). A cheap way to check this is to remove the cover, put a plastic grocery bag over the mother board and use an small elastic band to close the open end, allow the wires connected to the mother board to go out the open end. If this solves the problem, replace the seals on the master control cover. Care should be taken as if there is ANY corrossion on the mother board, it will need to be replaced.

Posted on Oct 28, 2008

chuck943
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SOURCE: where is the ignition module control located on 1996 ranger 2.3 e

It does not have an ignition control module. The PCM (powertrain control module) fires the coil pack based on signal it recieves from the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor.

Posted on Apr 08, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: stuck ignition cylinder 1992 ford taurus

It is not necessary to have the dealer do this, think of the cash! Though it does require patience and time. The pin you are supposed to push in goes into a slot when you have it in run position, since you cannot turn it to run you have to make a slot for the pin to go into, with a drill. Be very careful as you only have a 1/4" of play before you break a washer behind the cylinder. Once you have drilled out the key far enough to the pin hole you can take a nail set and tap the pin up, you can tell when the pin clears the housing, then it just takes wiggle, patience and tinkering to get the cylinder to slide out, keep the green washer and the metal slot washer. Metal slot washer goes in first with green plastic washer ontop of that with lock cylinder in last. You can play around with the new lock cylinder and washer before insertion to determin correct direction.

Here are official directions with inoperable lock cylinder. They say drill out retaining pin but it just spun in circles for me - I looked at new cylinder and saw how it worked. retaining pin needs a place to go.
Removal & Installation (Non-Functional)
NOTE:Use this procedure to remove ignition lock cylinder if key is missing or cylinder is frozen.

Disconnect negative battery cable. Disable air bag system. See appropriate AIR BAG RESTRAINT SYSTEMS article in RESTRAINTS. Wait at least one minute for air bag back-up power supply to deplete. Remove steering wheel. See STEERING WHEEL . Using a 1/8" bit, drill out retaining pin located below lock cylinder on housing. DO NOT drill deeper than 1/2".
Using channel lock pliers, twist lock cylinder cap until it separates from lock cylinder. Using a 3/8" drill bit, drill down center of ignition lock key slot about 1 3/4" until lock cylinder breaks loose from its base.
Remove retainer, washer, and lock cylinder gear from housing. Remove metal shavings from lock cylinder bore. Replace housing if damaged. To install, reverse removal procedure. Connect negative battery cable. Check air bag system for proper system operation. See appropriate AIR BAG RESTRAINT SYSTEMS article in RESTRAINTS.

Posted on Jul 12, 2009

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