Question about 2004 Ford Super Duty F 450
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 2001 Mustang GT rear brake job
yep this is a two man job, onece you get air in the lines is better to do all four, my has abs and i was able to do it, but next time don't take anylines lose just turn the piston clockwise and you should be able to push it in.
Posted on Oct 12, 2008
Did you bench bleed the master cyl. before installing it? then when you installed the new master, did you bleed all 4 points? If yes, then check all for points for leaking caliper/s and leaking wheel cylinder/s. If the van has ABS, check the valve body for a bleeder screw and see if air bleeds out of it. If you've checked everything twice and did everything right then your new master cyl. may be defective.
Posted on Apr 29, 2009
First look for obvious leaks under the vehicle, especially the inside area of each wheel... If you see fluid, you have either a blown cylinder seal or a bad line (check the rubber hoses to the front and back brakes too) Repair the offending part and bleed the air out of the system... (remember to clean pads or shoes if they have fluid on them)... If you see no hint of leakage anywhere, then suspect the master cylinder... if you remove the master cylinder, check and make sure that it didn't leak fluid into the brake booster diaphragm (Brake fluid will destroy the booster)... as in any repair when you open the system (lose fluid), you will need to bleed out the air to restore function... hope this helps...;-)
Posted on May 04, 2009
First I would figure out why it needs to be bled, if it was leaking somewhere, or fluid low, new caliper, etc.
Brake bleeding is the procedure performed on hydraulic brake systems whereby the brake lines (the pipes and hoses containing the brake fluid) are purged of any air bubbles. This is necessary because, while the brake fluid is an incompressible liquid, air bubbles are compressible gas and their presence in the brake system greatly reduces the hydraulic pressure that can be developed within the system.
The process is performed by forcing clean, bubble-free brake fluid through the entire system from the master cylinder(s) to the calipers of disc brakes or the wheel cylinders of drum brakes). The brake bleeder is normally mounted at the highest point on each cylinder or caliper. Brake bleeding can be done easily by two persons working together and doesn't require much technical expertise besides a basic knowledge of brakes and car hydraulics. One wheel at a time, the brake bleeding valve for that wheel is opened while a drain hose is attached to that valve and immersed into a pool of brake fluid. The assistant then pumps the brake pedal. In this manner, fresh fluid is forced through the system into that wheel's caliper or wheel cylinder, and any old, dirty, water-saturated or bubble-entrained fluid is expelled from the system. When the fluid from the caliper or wheel cylinder runs clean, clear, and bubble-free, the brake bleeding valve is closed and the drain tube removed. The process is then repeated for the remaining wheels. During the entire process, the brake fluid reservoir must be kept full of fresh fluid lest new air bubbles be introduced into the brake system. (As found on Wikipedia)
It would be important to note that the person pumping the brake should press slowly and tell you when they are nearing the end of the pedal stroke to you can close the bleed valve before you **** air back into the system. REMEMBER to keep brake fluid in the reservoir at the master cylinder.
Hope this helps. It's pretty easy and best done with 2 people, they hav vacuum bleeders which can be done with 1 person but the results are not consistant or perfect.
Posted on Jun 24, 2009
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