SOURCE: 1999 jeep grand cherokee laredo 4.0 litre
OK here we go you will need a test light for the following tests, i will try to be as descriptive as possible so lets get started
fist start the engine and turn on the a/c that should command the fan on.
right front engine compartment next to the battery is the power distribution center pop off the top, ground your test light to the negative battery terminal and find fuse number 10 it is a 40 amp fuse check both sides of this fuse with your test light, if you have power on both sides of the fuse than we shall go further.
unplug the connector from the cooling fan, there should be two wires in the plug one is dark green and the other is black with a pink tracer, with your test lite grounded to the negative battery terminal check the dark green wire for power, if there is power there than move your test light ground clamp to the battery positive terminal and test the black wire for ground,
if testing the black wire made the test light shine than the ground circuit is good, if it did not than check you ground connection behind the right headlight.
when testing the dark green wire, if the dark green wire made the test light shine and the ground circuit is good than you simply have a bad coolant fan motor.
I suspect you were not getting power to the fan motor so you will need to take a look at the radiator fan relay, this is a special solid state relay mounted to the inside of radiator core support on the right side down behind the bumper.
here you will find a single plug with 4 wires in it
black = ground
dark blue / pink = relay controll from pcm
dark green = output to radiator cooling fan
gray = battery power from fuse # 10 in pdc
unplug the relay ground your test light to the battery negative terminal, with the engine running and a/c turned on check the gray wire the test light, it should turn on if not recheck fuses.
move your test light to the battery posistive terminal and test the dark blue / pink wire, if the test light turns on than you have a bad radiator fan relay, you can pick one up at your local parts store for about $85.00 just make sure you get a high quality one the cheap ones have a hard time with the amprege consumption of that fan.
good luck
wesley [email protected]
SOURCE: 2003 jeep grand cherokee radiator fan doesn't turn
it's your radiator fan relay switch. It's a common problem on 03 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Cheapest place to get the part is rockauto.com . It's an easy fix. Mine went out a couple months ago. It's behind the passenger side headlight. You have to take the headlamp out.
SOURCE: 2000 jeep grand cherokee 4.0 liter engine timing belt replacement
If you have the same pulley arrangement that most 4.0 engines have that pulley is an idler not a tensioner. Your power steering pump has a pivot bolt, and a slide under the pump. You adjust belt tension using the pump.
SOURCE: 2002 jeep grand cherokee fan not working?????
Replace the fan relay switch. The dealer will charge you 400 to pull the bumper off, or you can buy the part for 45 and cut the hole in the plastic near the passenger headlight assembly and replace it yourself. There are instructions for this procedure on the web somewhere. I have had this problem more than once with my 02 GC V6.
SOURCE: Radiator fan on 2003 grand jeep cherokee does not
Porbably the radiator cooling fan relay switch is bad; check it; this is
located behind the bumper on the passenger side underneath the
headlight.
There are two ways of accessing it:
* Remove the bumper.
* Remove the pasenger side headlight assembly and cut a hole in the
plastic underneatch click on the link below for more info: WJ site - Cooling Relay
The relay seems to be a common replacement item for this
vehicle. One cause of the failure is that the relay overheats, per a
note inserted in the replacement part packaging.
The cutout method is used by dealers. In one vehicle, the relay failed
again after 40,000 miles or so. While replacing the relay it was noted
that it was secured by one screw and it was not tight. This did not
provide thermal contact with the chassis which helps cool the relay. The
cause of the second failure was likely due to improper installation.
Trying to work through a cutout would seem to make it difficult to get
both screw isntalled securely. Furthermore, the new parts today use
steel pop rivets for installation to help guarantee it will maintain
proper thermal contact with the chassis. The pop rivets cannot be
isntalled without removing the bumper.
It is not difficult to remove the bumper and grill to get to the relay.
It sounds like a big deal but you are talking a half dozen screws and
less than a dozen plastic rivets. The act of cutting a hole and working
in cramped quarters has to be more difficult and it does not provide as
quality a job.
Hope helps (remember rated this).
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