Question about 2002 Ford Taurus
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If it's the 3.0L Vulcan Engine (OHV), the thermostat is on the driver's side of the vehicle. Follow the upper radiator hose back to a metal area with three 10mm bolts. This is the thermostat housing. Undo the bolts, and there's the thermostat. Mark the back of it with the old thermostat in it (if you get one with a jiggle valve, it'll make it easier to put the new one in because the jiggle valve needs to be on top). The thermostat and housing aren't perfectly round, so you'll have to play with it a little to get it to line up. Make sure to change the gasket. The spring side of the thermostat goes into the engine.
The water pump is in the serpentine assembly. It's the larger pulley located toward the firewall. It'll be easiest to remove the water pump if you also remove the coolant recovery tank. The water pump pulley has four 1/2" bolts that you need to take out WITH THE BELT STILL ATTACHED. I can't stress this enough. The belt will keep the pulley in place so that you can remove the bolts. Take the pulley off, then the belt. Remove the heater hose at the top and the radiator hose at the bottom. There are 12 bolts of two diameters (1/2" and 10mm if I'm not mistaken). Tap the heater hose lightly with a soft-faced mallet to break the seal with the gasket. Trash the old gasket. Replace gasket (you can also line the mating surface of the water pump with RTV Sealant, put the new gasket on the new pump, and line the other side of gasket with a second coat of RTV sealant if you want a really good seal). Install the water pump and torque to manufacturer's specs. Attach the pulley to the water pump hand tight and put the belt back on. Tighten the pulley bolts. Put the coolant recovery tank back in place. Fill with coolant, start engine, bleed and check for leaks.
To bleed cooling system: Idle the engine until the thermostat opens (you'll be able to tell bacause the upper radiator hose will be uber hot and you'll feel coolant running through this hose). Squeeze all hoses in the system that you can reach, but don't burn yourself. Stop the engine and let it cool. Open the radiator cap and squeeze the COLD upper radiator hose. You'll see some bubbles in your recovery tank. You might have to monitor your coolant level for a couple of days while the final bits of air are purged through your radiator cap (that's why it's pressurized).
Hope this helps. It's not hard, but it took me quite awhile.
Posted on Jun 27, 2009
SOURCE: 2002 ford taurus wtaer pump
Removal & Installation
Water pump bolt torque sequence (3.0L (2V) engine)
Posted on Jul 04, 2009
I hope this helps, there is a 3.0 DOHC engine and one that is not, mine is not a DOHC. this is the routing i have on my 2001 Taurus SES
Posted on Feb 04, 2010
first you want to go buy a book on the car, you can get them at any auto parts store, the book has all the info you need to replace both, but you need to know why you need both parts replaced, is the car overheating? coolant leaking from the weep hole or gasket? w/p bearing failure? a/c comp leaking from a seal/gasket? pully bearing failure? a/c clutch faulty? to get to the point, if you plan on doing the repairs yourself the water pump repair is not that bad to replace, you will need time and patience, as for the a/c comp repair, it might envolve more then just replacing the comp, you may need to flush the system, replace the dryer/accumulator, expansion valve, also to do the job right you will need a vacuum pump, the a/c system will need a vacuum put on it to remove any air and moisture that gets in the sytem when you break the seal on it or you might still have problems after the repair.
Posted on Feb 23, 2010
Posted on Mar 21, 2010
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